Turbo vs. Supercharger help
#1
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Turbo vs. Supercharger help
On my long lost mission to get my Trans am going I am ready to start when I get home for Iraq! I have read the pros and cons to both of the systems and now I am almost finished making my decision. I am just wondering what some of you have to say about this matter. I want you to keep in mind my goal is to go for the system that makes the most reasonable power for the money... Im not saying I have a budget but I would rather not put $15k into this setup. Any ideas or tips or just comment will be taken into consideration. Thanks,
Don
Don
#2
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Your purpose needs to be stated as well. Is this going to be a drag car for the track, a street monster or a little of each? I chose the Vortech YSi and have no regrets. I love turbo cars, but when making the kind of power I make, I find the boost is not useable down low and the progressive boost increases created by the centrifugals makes traction more manageable. There are devices out there to help with building boost progressively, but they complicate things as well as add to the expense. Bang for the buck between the two, I don't think a well designed centrifugal system can be beat. Just in case someone brings up the belt aspect of it, I feel the need to mention that once I laser aligned my 8-rib pulley system, I haven't had one issue. See sig for #'s
#3
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Well just from my short time researching boosted LS applications, there will be alot of determining factors. Like for example:
how much power are you looking to make?
What are your goals for the car?
Are you on a stock engine or plan a forged build?
If your planning on a forged short block, how many cubes?
Also things like, do you currently have full exhaust & wish to keep it? If so a turbo is not for you since it runs off your exhaust gases & you'd have to completely alter your exhaust. You also need to think fuel system parts. Depending on how much power & your goals for the car you can easily sink $1200 in your fuel system alone before you have time to blink, LOL.
I'd say $15k for a properly built reliable boosted set-up is about right honestly. If you figure in a new motor set-up(347 would be cheapest), FI kit either turbo or SC, fuel system parts, tuning. FI isn't a cheap game to play, but you can save some money here & there picking your parts wisely the first time around.
how much power are you looking to make?
What are your goals for the car?
Are you on a stock engine or plan a forged build?
If your planning on a forged short block, how many cubes?
Also things like, do you currently have full exhaust & wish to keep it? If so a turbo is not for you since it runs off your exhaust gases & you'd have to completely alter your exhaust. You also need to think fuel system parts. Depending on how much power & your goals for the car you can easily sink $1200 in your fuel system alone before you have time to blink, LOL.
I'd say $15k for a properly built reliable boosted set-up is about right honestly. If you figure in a new motor set-up(347 would be cheapest), FI kit either turbo or SC, fuel system parts, tuning. FI isn't a cheap game to play, but you can save some money here & there picking your parts wisely the first time around.
#4
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I want to keep a daily driver that I can take to the track and Have some fun! I also plan on building the trans, rear end, and suspension it all a must! and as for the motor I had in mind of doing the 347 for turbo but if i sc the I was thinking 383.
#5
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Well I'll just tell ya now that your probably gonna bust that $15k with doin a built tranny, rear end & suspension along with motor, fuel system & FI application of your choice. Are you a auto or 6-speed? A built T56 isn't cheap & neither is a built auto tranny & good stall.
It can be done a little cheaper than just buying everything & paying full price. But it takes time to catch pieces in the sale section used. If you want it now & new with warranty, that $15k is gonna add up super fast.
It can be done a little cheaper than just buying everything & paying full price. But it takes time to catch pieces in the sale section used. If you want it now & new with warranty, that $15k is gonna add up super fast.
#6
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Yeah I am aware its going to add up fast but I'm not including the trans/ suspension in the price. I am also thinking about maybe doing a 370ci with a big single. I have the reasources to make a custom setup.
#7
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Well that can save you some money for sure then. I'm piecing mine together & plan on it taking me about 2yrs to get absolutely everything. As of right now I have my entire FMIC set-up planned out & priced. I can get everything needed to get it in & piped up for about $450. Of coarse thats with me cutting & fitting all the piping myself, so only raw material costs is what I have figured.
ChevyChad just built a nice 370 to run with his Procharger set-up. He is looking for a solid 800hp this time around. You might watch his build.
ChevyChad just built a nice 370 to run with his Procharger set-up. He is looking for a solid 800hp this time around. You might watch his build.
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#8
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I like my current setup. Turbos still have advantage of being able to change boost with push of button.Can run lower for daily driving and crank it up for track or whenever.
New controllers like eboost or ams help traction by letting you ramp up boost by rpm, time,gear,etc. Turbos can hit pretty hard but with the right tires not a huge deal.My nittos do not too bad by top of third at about 650rwhp setting. Have some et street radials for when want to hook up better and going to be running some new street tires for daily driving which won't hook up well in the lower gears but should still be fine for daily driving.
New controllers like eboost or ams help traction by letting you ramp up boost by rpm, time,gear,etc. Turbos can hit pretty hard but with the right tires not a huge deal.My nittos do not too bad by top of third at about 650rwhp setting. Have some et street radials for when want to hook up better and going to be running some new street tires for daily driving which won't hook up well in the lower gears but should still be fine for daily driving.
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I would do a 370ci iron block and d1sc supercharger setup. epp has a great package including ecu tune. I am going with a turbo setup because my car will be mostly a track car so i can change the turbo if i want to go bigger, But if it was my daily driver i would have gone the procharger route.
#12
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I like the idea of a 408 but its more money that I could put into the turbo set up. But In all actually is it really that much more then a 370ci? I have made my decision and Im goign to start with the motor, and work my way out. Any tips on where I should start look for parts?
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LOL You guys are gonna grind me for this one LOL but here it goes !!Your gonna have crazy money into your ride either way ,by the time you your done youll have 10 to 15K EASY into your ride! if i were you and just coming home from the service and its a daily driver and are just looking for some street and weekend fun ???Ide just go with the spray setup my man !and have a good tunner tune your ride for it. Times are really tough right now and i dont see em getting better any time soon Take that 15K or that saved combate pay and put it on a house when you come home and just put the 3 K into a really nice spray setup OR look for someone on here thats allready dumped the major $$into there ride and now have to sell it cheap because of money problems or loss of their job i know for a fact ALOT of guys have there rides up for sale because of the economy or other reasons
LOL I had 50K into my 87 GN some years back and sold it for 15K because i was getting married and need money to buy a house LOL So the deals are out there if you look
LOL I had 50K into my 87 GN some years back and sold it for 15K because i was getting married and need money to buy a house LOL So the deals are out there if you look
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The reason I see in building a 370 is that you are putting rods and pistons into a 347 why not just use the iron block and get more cubes for the same price. More cubes you have the more power you make with lower boost. Its the same reason you would build a 408 and not a 383 when you buy a 4 inch crank. Thats why I would build one anyway.
Last edited by 95lt1z383; 07-02-2009 at 11:11 PM.