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Forced Induction
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:32 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tally TransAm View Post
drop the tank to finish the rear half of the hotwire install. . .
Save some time, now and in the future, access door mod!
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Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
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Old 09-30-2009, 11:43 AM   #42
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[quote=Tally TransAm;12166766]little bit of part porn

[quote]

lol, lookin good
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Old 09-30-2009, 01:45 PM   #43
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Save some time, now and in the future, access door mod!
+1...I have done both ways and I can say it is MUCH easier and saves so much time to just cut the trap door.
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:10 PM   #44
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i have the trap door from when i did my fuel pump BUT i dont have a battery right now and the hatch is shut which is a small but solvable problem. also i made a feeble attempt to push the connectors over the tank with it strapped in and couldnt get them up there, ill try again a little harder though
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Old 09-30-2009, 04:36 PM   #45
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Doing the trap door mod will save you much time especially if you decide to do anything else that requires you to access the fuel pump, you will be glad you did.
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:13 PM   #46
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use the key to unlock the hatch..also with your alternator setup where did u get the small slide type tensioner from?
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Old 09-30-2009, 07:56 PM   #47
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use the key to unlock the hatch..also with your alternator setup where did u get the small slide type tensioner from?
bwhwhahahaa holy shit, i cant believe its been so long since i used a key to get in the car i forgot the hatch had one. damn i feel dumb

made the slide tensioner outta some flat stock
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:00 PM   #48
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Quote:
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bwhwhahahaa holy shit, i cant believe its been so long since i used a key to get in the car i forgot the hatch had one. damn i feel dumb

made the slide tensioner outta some flat stock
LMFAO! atleast your key works for your hatch and doors! mine doesnt!!! Battery died and couldn't get into car!!!! had to jack it up and put jupers on starter and frame! lmao, sucked!
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:04 PM   #49
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I did a Racetronix and harness just a couple weeks ago. Just unbolt the tank straps and let the tank settle. You should have enough room to slide the end of the harness up and over the EVAP cannister. My long arms and big hands actually HELPED this time .
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:37 PM   #50
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figured post an update

pump wiring is finished, got the rear back,out with the 4.30's in with 3.70's, new rod ends in the lca's, and 275/50/17 M&H drag radials. i had issues with a prior set and their customer service was awesome and they gave me a set of them from a new wider mold. they are about as wide as my 275/40/17 M/T drag radials were

heres some more with pics

finished the downpipe





also got the gauges installed.

fuel pressure gauge (WAY more of a pain in than the ass than i thought it would be)







gauges in the vents, boost, water temp, and LC1 wideband. i have the fernco piece to center the gauge in the 2 5/8" hole that i will put in tomorrow.



Engine bay pics










figuring out hptuners as i go. got a base tune loaded on weds and after four months she fired right up. tune was way off so i started over tonight and got a new tune loaded and things went much better. idles great, afr at idle is between 12-14. gotta get used to the sound coming from a choppy heads and cam setup but it sounds great

coming along....
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:43 PM   #51
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Looks good!
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:15 AM   #52
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I like the gauge in the cowl, looks good so far!
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:22 AM   #53
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Good job, keep the progress updated, Did you change Power steering lines?
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Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
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Old 10-19-2009, 08:53 AM   #54
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Lookin good! Post some results when you get the tuned lined out and some pics of the car when you get it driveable with those M&H's on it if you can.
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Old 10-19-2009, 01:42 PM   #55
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Gauge in the cowl is very smooth

How's the alternator bracket holding up so far? May end up copying your idea instead of using the bracket that I bought.
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:40 PM   #56
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got a local hydraulic shop to make new power steering lines with my stock ends for like 35 bucks.

alt bracket needs a little fine tuning but i think it will work. on first start up the belt started to come over the top of the power steering pulley, move it back a little and it is staying put now but might need to move it back a little more
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:40 PM   #57
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got a local hydraulic shop to make new power steering lines with my stock ends for like 35 bucks.

alt bracket needs a little fine tuning but i think it will work. on first start up the belt started to come over the top of the power steering pulley, move it back a little and it is staying put now but might need to move it back a little more
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:41 PM   #58
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Quote:
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How's the alternator bracket holding up so far? May end up copying your idea instead of using the bracket that I bought.
Don't mean to hi-jack or anything, but I used his idea, all the pics and info are in my build thread and I actually have drove my car about 50 miles and it seems to be working good! Link in sig.
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Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tally TransAm View Post
got a local hydraulic shop to make new power steering lines with my stock ends for like 35 bucks.
more
What did they make the lines out of? or did you just make the rubber part longer so you can route it away from heat?
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|PTE74GTS | 317's | 918's | CC 7.4 PR's | Motron 60's | Walbro | GM MLS Head Gaskets | ARP Head studs | 02 Z06 Cam | Phamspeed Hot Pipes | Tial 38mm WG | Turbosmart BOV | All AEM Gauges | HPTuners | Moser 12 Bolt 3.73 33 Spline TruTrack | ls7/ls2 clutch |
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Do as much HP as the pocket book will allow...worry about traction later.
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:50 PM   #60
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Quote:
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Don't mean to hi-jack or anything, but I used his idea, all the pics and info are in my build thread and I actually have drove my car about 50 miles and it seems to be working good! Link in sig.
Cool thanks man
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