I was down there and watched a couple of his runs. Pretty impressive for NA. I'm planning on using a bunch of aero tricks I learned while down at the TX Mile this year
I also hear you on the nickle and diming thing. That's why I changed my Formula's build to get it running. I was getting hit for a couple hundred on tons of things and it was just running me out of money and quickly.
I'm waiting for parts to arrive. I'll take pics this weekend when I'm installing everything.
A2W is mounted. Got the IC back from the fab shop where they welded on the Procharger race valve. All the fittings and lines arrived today. Here are a few progress shots. Should get done running and fitting most the lines tomorrow. Besides a couple more fittings and a few sensors and relays, the car is ready to crank.
Looks good man.. One suggestion tho- it looks like you used the teflon tape on those fuel fittings. You would be better off using the liquid teflon pipe sealant. Any hardware store will have the liquid stuff and its way better for any sort of liquid. The tape is more for air fittings..
__________________ 2002 Trans Am M6, forged 9.2:1 370, F1 procharger @ 12psi, comp SC2 cam, mild ported AFR 225 heads, MAC midlengths, Borla, full suspension, 3.73 12-bolt, Mecham Hood, 19x10 Polished CCW 505A's 700ish RWHP/ 600ish RWTQ (still ironing it out)
Looks good man.. One suggestion tho- it looks like you used the teflon tape on those fuel fittings. You would be better off using the liquid teflon pipe sealant. Any hardware store will have the liquid stuff and its way better for any sort of liquid. The tape is more for air fittings..
The shop I purchased all the lines and fittings from said to use the tape but keep it off the first 2 threads. I'll look into the liquid stuff.
Yea, I'd look into it at the very least. From my understanding, all NPT threads used for any type of liquid should be coated with the liquid teflon pipe sealer. Also, AN fittings you shouldnt be using any type of thread sealer at all (tape or liquid). Its worth looking into and researching, but this is the way I've done it and it has worked out great for me.
__________________ 2002 Trans Am M6, forged 9.2:1 370, F1 procharger @ 12psi, comp SC2 cam, mild ported AFR 225 heads, MAC midlengths, Borla, full suspension, 3.73 12-bolt, Mecham Hood, 19x10 Polished CCW 505A's 700ish RWHP/ 600ish RWTQ (still ironing it out)
I hope you don't plan on running that honeycomb filter. It will definitely choke down some power, you would be better off running the largest KN you can on the front of that monster!
Chad is right, liquid thread sealant all the way when it comes to fuel items. Better safe than sorry at 210 mph.
Yea, I'd look into it at the very least. From my understanding, all NPT threads used for any type of liquid should be coated with the liquid teflon pipe sealer. Also, AN fittings you shouldnt be using any type of thread sealer at all (tape or liquid). Its worth looking into and researching, but this is the way I've done it and it has worked out great for me.
I find red locktite works well but I wouldn't do it on a car that I would be routinely taking lines on and off...
I hope you don't plan on running that honeycomb filter.
That was a filter I had laying around that happend to have a 4.5" inlet so I put it on for the time being. I'm planning on running a 90 elbow into a large filter but won't know where I have room till the radiator and heat exchangers are mounted.
Here's the fuel system about 1/2 way there. Some of the fittings and angles didn't work out as planned so I have some unused fitting I'll bring back to the shop on Mon to get the right ones. I got the new optima battery relocated to the passenger rear storage bin with the Hinson kit and ran the premade cables. I put the fittings on the water tank, all 1" stuff, now just need to get more hose and run it. Also need to mount the rad fans.
Fuel system: -10 feeds to pump with pre-filters, -8 out of pump into 8/8/12 Y block with check valve on the secondary pump to prevent backflow when not in use. -12 all the way to the bay with -12 filter then 8/8/12 Y block, 90s, -8s and 90s into the back of the rails, front of the rails Ts to the Magnafuel boost regulator with -8 return.
any reason you are using a A2A core fort he rad as opposed to a proper rad core??? Are there any differences??
Cheers
Chris.
Supposedly the A2A cores are slightly less efficient than a dedicated water core but due to my size contraints the A2A was the only core that would work. Since my A2W IC is where the radiator normally goes, I made the A2A IC a radiator- should work fine. It's a bit of a trick...when you see the "small" A2A on the front you won't be thinking BIG power...
A bit more progress today. Got a few fittings today but not all. Still need one for the front end and a few for the rear. Fueling is 90% there now. All lines are full teflon with braided sheath except for the 12AN because I couldn't find anyone that makes it...Maybe in the future.
Supposedly the A2A cores are slightly less efficient than a dedicated water core but due to my size contraints the A2A was the only core that would work. Since my A2W IC is where the radiator normally goes, I made the A2A IC a radiator- should work fine. It's a bit of a trick...when you see the "small" A2A on the front you won't be thinking BIG power...
It will be intresting to see how the core cooles the water. have you seen the rear mounted rad setups in RX7s?? Very intresting and they work a treat. Plus you could have 2 small and one LARGE heat exchange for the SC!
Update: I went back through the fuel system and removed all the teflon tape and fixed a couple lines that weren't looking right. I got the rest of the fittings in and the fuel system is now complete. I ordered the rest of the sensors, hoses, and relays I need to bring her to life. I don't know if the car will start without a MAF (I'm going speed density) but imagine it will at least turn over (the ecu has cags! vats! and base tune loaded)
The plan is to turn the fuel pumps on and test the fuel system for leaks, test the A2W system for leaks, re-test the radiator cooling system for leaks, and get the car turning over. I'll tow it to the shop where they'll do a custom SS exhaust dual 3.5" that Y into a 5" at the muffler. Then they'll strap it down and tune it in on the dyno. If all goes well I'll bring it to the shop before thanksgiving and have it back finished before christmas.
A2W is mounted. Got the IC back from the fab shop where they welded on the Procharger race valve. All the fittings and lines arrived today. Here are a few progress shots. Should get done running and fitting most the lines tomorrow. Besides a couple more fittings and a few sensors and relays, the car is ready to crank.
You may need to use 2 procharger race valve's if you going to drive it in the street. I had to use 3 race valves to keep my engine temps down due to drag on the blower ( lots of cfm, 2700 )
good luck on tx mile I will see you there in march
Update: I went back through the fuel system and removed all the teflon tape and fixed a couple lines that weren't looking right.
Good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 93formto98T/A
I don't know if the car will start without a MAF (I'm going speed density) but imagine it will at least turn over (the ecu has cags! vats! and base tune loaded)
It should run with the MAF unplugged. It will not run though if the MAF is plugged in and not in the air stream. (at least this is what I have found)
It should run with the MAF unplugged. It will not run though if the MAF is plugged in and not in the air stream. (at least this is what I have found)
Sounds good!
Update: I got the rx7 oil pressure sender hooked up after many trips to home depot for adapter fittings.. Had the break the plastic piece off the ls1 oil pressure sender, drill out the threaded metal part and tap it for 1/8npt, buy a 2" threaded 1/8 pipe, flex the ABS lines up a bit, and crank the assembly into the back of the valley cover where there's NO room. I've got the radiator mocked up and have found some radiator hoses that will work with the setup with minimal modification. I found a good place to put a 2" hole saw in the firewall to run both the 1" hoses from the A2W tank up to the A2W IC and back. Put oil in the SC, filled the PS fluid, and picked up misc bolts and hose clamps. I'm waiting on a couple sensors to arrive then I can hook them up, bolt in the starter and wire it in, wire the fuel pumps and water pump and see if she'll turn over or better yet come to life. I finally see the light at the end...
RX7 FD, Sheetmetal Widebody, CandyPearl Orange Paint, Fiberglass hood, doors, trunk, wing, bumper, ported Warhawk headed forged LS7 427, Spec Twin Carbon, Tranzilla T56, Procharger F2, meth inj, Cobra 8.8 rear conversion w/TrueTrac, Makaveli 3pc Forged wheels 19f/20r, Nitto INVO 345/25/20r 305/30/19f 
