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Old 11-16-2006, 04:12 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
when i want to get between 600 to 650 rwhp, what should i do ??
if ur keeping stock block then everything i listed plus a good amount of other things, if ur a beginner its alot of stuff to learn about have fun!
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:50 PM   #62
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Did you mean 6.0 heads + cam + turbo kit will be enough to make 650 rwhp ??
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Old 11-20-2006, 11:22 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
Did you mean 6.0 heads + cam + turbo kit will be enough to make 650 rwhp ??
well thats what i have, 6.0l heads, turbo cam, turbo kit, good fuel system. the problem is ur are pushing a stock bottom end to its limits with 650RWHP, im going to stop at around 570RWHP and even thats asking for trouble eventually
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Old 11-22-2006, 04:59 AM   #64
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should i use standard 6.0 cylinder heads or after market?.....and what is the best??
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Old 11-23-2006, 01:34 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Chevy 1_Z28
should i use standard 6.0 cylinder heads or after market?.....and what is the best??
ported is alwasy best but they are more expensive, i have regular ones
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Old 01-10-2007, 10:45 AM   #66
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this is a great thread....i have been thinking about buying a sts turbo kit....need to talk to longrage4u about his kit
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:13 PM   #67
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Thanks for the link Navy David SS
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:10 AM   #68
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Where did you find the prices you did for the parts list (in the first post).
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Old 02-12-2007, 12:40 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickdomesticRacer
Where did you find the prices you did for the parts list (in the first post).
from where i bought the stuff, let me know a product and ill tell u where i got it
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Old 02-12-2007, 07:49 PM   #70
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Patriot Dbl Spring Kit.
Rollmaster T/C
Dynotune AFR setup



Are 60lb'ers really needed, or will SVO 42lb'ers work?
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Old 02-13-2007, 06:19 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickdomesticRacer
Patriot Dbl Spring Kit.
Rollmaster T/C
Dynotune AFR setup



Are 60lb'ers really needed, or will SVO 42lb'ers work?
patriot duals -- byunspeed
rollmaster timing chain--- byunspeed
i didnt end up getting the dyno tune a/f i got the AEM from byunspeed, but the dynotune for that price is over in the "sponsor sales" section and ull see it, its a big thread over there

for the price y not get 60s, u wont have to upgrade them later and u need them to go over around 600crank power
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Old 02-22-2007, 10:52 PM   #72
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for the lt1 stuff i have a few questions hopefully somone will look at this.
for the timing chain whens the stock lt1 good too. and is the lt4 a ton better or is there something else out there.
im going to go with aem tru boost controller what gauges will i still need? Where to get them? what brand? i keep looking and its like 200 for a fuel pressure gauge i rather spend that much on something else.
what does the wideband do better then a regular a/f gauge if i know how to read it?
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:38 AM   #73
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on our turbo "kits" which i think can be a waste of money if you can't find the parts your self for cheaper. And not be afraid of ebay or craigslist for simple stuff. but my question is our they using dual or single wastegates and were are they normally places on a front mounted single turbo(only looking for 450whp-500whp out of stock lm7 with ls6 intake and water menth, and rod bolts cam and springs) and what size. I am use to smaller turbo engines where a 38mm would be alright but a 42mm then that be more then big enough what does it take for the lsx engines?

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Old 03-23-2007, 08:54 PM   #74
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This is just my opinion, but i think the boost gauge should be required... b/c before i got the alcohol injection on my 87 GN i could run about 16-17 psi on 93 pump gas, so i left the dial there. One night while running it hard it suddenly gave a BIG kick in the pants then the ECM would kill the ignition until i let out of the gas. I wondered if it was bad gas or something so i got back into it again and nearly the same results, except this time i was looking at the boost gauge and the needle shot past 25psi so I immediately let off the gas before the ECM stepped in. Turns out the hose that connects the inlet to the wastegate actuator blew off. Luckily my engine comes from the factory built for boost so it lived through that.

Stock NA engines wouldn't take that scenario, so i think the extra gauge is worth it so you can at least have a chance at letting out of it before it blows.

That and after i got the alcohol kit, i love seeing the gauge all the way over to 25psi while that turbo screams My turbo starts getting really loud around 22psi.
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Old 04-05-2007, 01:22 PM   #75
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You forgot to include the cost of the speeding tickets you will be getting after your build.I CANT DRIVE 55.
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Old 04-26-2007, 04:37 PM   #76
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Thanks for the info. this is great
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Old 05-03-2007, 06:09 PM   #77
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Great thread.
I want to add that you would be better of with either two wideband controllers, or one dual-channel.
Also, I didn't see EGT gauges - these would be WAAAAY more useful than fuel pressure, so you would know when you are melting your toys.
Also some knock detection system would be almost required, unless stock LS1 system is OK.
My .02
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Old 05-04-2007, 06:36 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdhmi
Here is a quick breakdown for my combo to give you an idea:

-- Motor - forged 346 w/ AFR heads and custom cam, LS6 intake. Comp 921 springs. $8,000
-- Turbo kit - $9,000
-- Fuel pump, 60 # injectors, KB BAP, Meth kit - $1,500
-- Built 4L6X, Yank Convertor, trans cooler, etc - $4,500
-- Borla catback + x-pipe - $750
-- Blitz EBC w/ LC-1 WB02 + Boost/fuel gauges - $1,250

That's $25,000 and that's not adding one dime for labor (other than assembling the motor).
Unfortunately, this is quite realistic for a solid FI setup. Now, if you can weld nicely and have the space to dedicate to building the pipes, then go ahead and save yourself the money, if you can build.

However, if you dont need the motor build, than knock that off. Fuel is a necessity and i wouldn't cut corners on that. What really gets ya is the extras like drivetrain, tires, wheels, suspension, safety gear, etc.

FI isnt a 7K ordeal... maybe for those that refuse to buy some elses stuff and stretch the dollar to 2 cents per penny!!

Good sticky and write-up!!
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Old 07-07-2007, 03:33 PM   #79
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this isn't my plan but its possible so i'll ask it, say i got a vortech or procharger kit.... for what is it like $4k-6k? Would I be able to throw that on and run at 5-7PSI and have 425 RWHP without spending $1,000,000 on little details?

of course change injectors and fuel pump too
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:38 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SchultzLT1
this isn't my plan but its possible so i'll ask it, say i got a vortech or procharger kit.... for what is it like $4k-6k? Would I be able to throw that on and run at 5-7PSI and have 425 RWHP without spending $1,000,000 on little details?

of course change injectors and fuel pump too
yes, but y spend 6grand for that when u can do that with 1000 dollar heads and cam
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