Doesn't lowering the K-member and crossmember affect the whole suspension geometry of the car? It would affect the driveshaft angle along with the whole front-end suspension.
Have you checked into this problem, and could you share the results with us.
A friend of mine does suspension setups for a Nascar team, thats his job, flying around the country to all the races and tweaking the cars suspension. Next time we talk I'll ask him about lowering the K-member, and what affects it has on the suspension.
__________________ 1997 WS6 Trans Am Convertible
CNC LT4 H/C/I, KooK's 1-7/8" headers, 3" Y with dual DMH cut-outs, Corsa cat-back, Mcleod Street Twin, Full UMI & BMR suspension (K-member to panhard), Koni's & Strano's, S60 Rearend w/3.73's, ZeForged 18"x11" and 18"x9"----401 rwhp & 375 rwtq---- (too much other crap to list)
Doesn't lowering the K-member and crossmember affect the whole suspension geometry of the car? It would affect the driveshaft angle along with the whole front-end suspension.
Have you checked into this problem, and could you share the results with us.
A friend of mine does suspension setups for a Nascar team, thats his job, flying around the country to all the races and tweaking the cars suspension. Next time we talk I'll ask him about lowering the K-member, and what affects it has on the suspension.
Good point, I would be interested to hear what your NASCAR buddy thinks, PM me when you talk to him. This setup is not any different than a lift kit on a 4x4 truck, in fact trucks with massive lift kits run the driveshaft at much more extreme angles. The trans crossmember is in the stock location, so I am putting the front u-joint at a different angle than it originally was, but it's not enough to cause any problems with the joint itself. My pinion angle is at -3 degrees, which is right where it should be to have the driveshaft straight under power. I am taking the car for a 4 wheel alignment tomorrow, and I intend to have it aligned to factory specs. I will post the results here.
I have put over 200 miles on my car in the last 2 days, and believe me, they haven't been easy miles! I am beating this car withing an inch of it's life everyday to try and break something so that I can address any issues before production kits are shipped. So far not even a hiccup or drop of leaking oil! this thing is living up to all of my expectations and then some! Stay tuned!
By the way, thanks for the laugh Houdini, I have never actually seen a thermo nuclear credit card
__________________ 1999 SS M6 Black..."Baby" Cam on a 112LSA / Pacesetter Longtubes and ORY/ 3" FlowTech Cutout / Borla Exhaust / Center Mount Tips/ Speed Inc T-56 Street Rebuild / LS7 Clutch / LS2 Flywheel / Pro 5.0 Shifter / Dyno Tuned By Outlaw Motorsports / Whisper Lid / SLP Ram Air / ASP Underdrive Pulley / EGR Delete / Eibach Pro-Kit / 17x9.5 and 18x10.5 Black Z06 Rims no rivets
The tranny crossmember would need to be lowered as well to keep the correct geometry of the motor/tranny. During mockup of my 36 Dodge I was told to keep the motor/tranny line -1* to -3* from level in the chassis?
__________________ New Project:1970 Camaro SS -- Hugger Orange/Black
Possible LQ9 - L92 - Carb - 6-Speed... We'll See... 2002 SS #686 - SOM/Ebony - M6 - Slowhawk Tuned
403/384 SAE - Best ET: 12.018@117.40 w/1.825 60' Looking for Vettes of all years & condition '53 + Up
Congrats on doing something for the F-body that most companies have run away from like the plague ! I definitely think you have something if you can package in a nice easy plug and play kit (sounds like that is what your doing). If you actually made it work with the KB that would icing on the cake. I have a LT1-6spd car, so the question remains will you try to address the 93-97 LT1 F-body crowd ? Good luck in your endeavor
Hmm, I'm going to be in Muncie for a day in about two weeks, might be interesting to swing by and see the car in person.
__________________ 2000 SS Camaro M6
#7143 out of 8912
SSRA, lid, Shaner TB, LS6 intake, QTP's, cutout, F13 on 112, pulley, stb, sfc's, tuned by Green Light Motorsports
Best: 12.18 @ 117.19 with a 1.99 60ft on stock tires
DA: -950 Race weight: 3560 lbs(with me) http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...amaro_Barn.jpg
thanks for the kind words guys, I've been working on this for a while, so it's good to be close to the point of selling them.
I will definately look at making a kit with the bigger blowers, but right now I need to get this kit fully off the ground, then look at other upgrades.
As for the LT1 question, I'm sure I could do it pretty easily, but my concern would be in the factory LT1 pistons. I would want to see a set of Mahle or equivalent pistons, which would also give the opportunity to lower compression then I think it would be pretty simple to adapt a SBC blower manifold to the Magnuson or KB or whatever.
Ru2n00n3er- call me at the number in my sig, we'll hook up. I'm an hour away from Muncie
Ed - I'm glad I gave you a chuckle, but believe me sir, it's no laughing matter. Klaxons go off when I open up my wallet, I need to wear nomex gloves when I whip that badboy out... you could use the damn thing as a hotplate!
In all seriousness, you should place a call to Sam Strano to find out about the whole suspension geometry thing. The man knows his shit when it comes to F-Body suspensions, he has been the go-to guy for may people on this board regarding suspension related problems. I have spoken with him on a few occasions, he has always been friendly and understanding with all questions I have asked him... even the stupid one's.
Sam Strano-Owner Strano Performance Parts
2 time SCCA Solo2 National Champion
2002 SCCA ProSolo Series National Champion
814-849-3450 tech
800-729-1831 orders www.stranoparts.com
I will still try to reach my friend this weekend to see what he has to say also, and will respond back to you with a PM.
If you could make the Magnusen mp122, Whipple or Kenne Bell screw chargers work on a LT1/4, I would care less if it poked out of the hood. In all honesty, I would almost prefer it. I think a black powdercoated blower sticking out of the hood of my white Trans Am, would be just about the best looking mod I could ever do to my car. If you think it's at all feasible, I officially offer you the use of my car as a prototype platform... just say the word brother!!
God bless!
__________________ 1997 WS6 Trans Am Convertible
CNC LT4 H/C/I, KooK's 1-7/8" headers, 3" Y with dual DMH cut-outs, Corsa cat-back, Mcleod Street Twin, Full UMI & BMR suspension (K-member to panhard), Koni's & Strano's, S60 Rearend w/3.73's, ZeForged 18"x11" and 18"x9"----401 rwhp & 375 rwtq---- (too much other crap to list)
This is good news. I have been wondering if a kit like this was out there. Thanks for going through all the work to make it easier for us to go faster....lol
__________________ Under construction but almost finished-
2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 Built A4, 12 bolt, and...
2007 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax- Stock for now.
2006 21ft enclosed- stock, just the toy hauler. haha
I have never been able to understand why a company could not make an offset intake/adapter to place the blower a little more forward on the engine to clear the cowl and shorten the blower drive snout to be run off of the serpentine. I would not think this would be that hard to do and once a cast was made it would be easy to sell them and make killing at first in this community. I am really suprised KB or Whipple did not do this for us.
I have never been able to understand why a company could not make an offset intake/adapter to place the blower a little more forward on the engine to clear the cowl and shorten the blower drive snout to be run off of the serpentine. I would not think this would be that hard to do and once a cast was made it would be easy to sell them and make killing at first in this community. I am really suprised KB or Whipple did not do this for us.
I agree 100%!!
I always thought the very same thing. Have the lower blower manifold angle forward somewhere in the range of 35-45 degrees, geting the blower itself, out from under the cowl.
With the exception of maybe the Magnuson mp112, any other positive displacement blower is going to require cuting of the hood, and the blower unit WILL end up above the hood. So, just accept this fact and push the damn thing through the hood. If you like the look of a pulley and blower above the hood line, then leave it as is, if not, then I'm sure someone will see some money in a new hood design made to clear positive displacement blower units.
I for one, want the ungodly amounts of torque off of idle that only a screwcharger can provide... smash that mofo through the hood and be done with it!!
__________________ 1997 WS6 Trans Am Convertible
CNC LT4 H/C/I, KooK's 1-7/8" headers, 3" Y with dual DMH cut-outs, Corsa cat-back, Mcleod Street Twin, Full UMI & BMR suspension (K-member to panhard), Koni's & Strano's, S60 Rearend w/3.73's, ZeForged 18"x11" and 18"x9"----401 rwhp & 375 rwtq---- (too much other crap to list)
Also was always thinking a motorplate setup would work as well. Just push the engine forward 5-6 inches and throw a KB 3.3 ontop of a well prepped 408 Iron block. Just a thought but would be drag only. I have seriously contemplated doing this.
I modeled the F-body suspension set up last year for a Vehicle Dynamics report. All you would need to tell me is how far the K-member is lowered, and I can edit the files, and tell you the new Roll Center location, camber gain, etc. I am very pleased that you went on a limb and did this, without cutting the cowl. Shoot me a PM and we can get some info going.
__________________
1999 Hugger Orange SS M6 - ETP Heads - 9" - D1SC - NEED CAM AND FUEL
2006 White Trailblazer SS - AWD
23' Regal Velocity - SBC
Instead of lowering k-member, can more of the cowel be cut ?
Also, will/can you sell these kits with different size opening for us guys who might
have the 90mm throttle bodys ?
If the cradle wasn't lowered, I would have to do a lot of cutting, and probably run into the same issues others have seen with re-locating the wiper pivot. The spacing of the K member is no big deal at all, but if a customer doesn't want to lower the K member, and would rather do more cutting , I am willing to work with them on a one on one basis. Same thing with the 90 MM snout. The only way to keep the price of this kit in line with the Corvette kit is to keep it as simple as possible. My shop will be open on Halloween , once that happens, I am willing to do whatever custom work people want.
How did you deal with the headers then if the cradle was lowered?
__________________ "The Corn Chicken" - The First Corn Blown F-Body....10psi->570RWHP/490RWTQ 2001 SOM WS6,M6,#10/195, Procharger D1SC,8rib,CustomFuelSystem,Spohn PHB & LCA,UMI TA & 3ptSFC,TPIS Headers,ORY,MagnaflowCB,DynomaxBullet,RUFF 278's, E85 Flex-Fuel Tune By Andy @ Dynotune
