Some AWESOME info here. This helped alot.

 

dose a catch can really help.

 

I think I need to do this too.

 

Ok just read everything and still not clear on what to do..
I have a APS kit with about 1000 HP.. Right now I have the Driverside rear VC port going to the inlet side of the turbo pipe, Pass-side rear VC port also to the Turbo inlet pipe, Filter on oil cap, front pass-side VC capped, And running LS6 valley to the non vented Catch can and back to the intake on the 92FAST. Is this right?? My rear main already went out after 300 miles so I'm thinking its wrong. Let me know

 

Still not definitive. Will TTT to try and revive it. >=)

 

heres how Im going to run mine, seems to be the ticket from what I concur

 

I originally started this thread....... in summary, what would be the most cost effective and efficient way... without a pump.... to achieve an adequate FI(Turbo) system..... could someone PM me so I don't have a rehash on all the opinions stated in here. I just don't wanna blow my engine/seals out when I let it all hang out.

 

On a "driver", wouldn't the inlet be sufficient? You don't spend THAT much time idling, you'll almost always be under load spooling, maybe not boosting, but enough to suck the bs out of the crankcase.

 

I dont have an inlet tube for my turbo. so where would i pull vacuum from? filter is mounted right to the turbo

 

Do you have room to add 1 1/2-2" spacer between the turbo and the filter? Then you could just tap you breather line into the spacer.

On my setup, I going to have to add a silcone 90 to extend the passenger side air filter out to add a hose from my catch can. I'm running two 3/4" rubber lines from both valve covers to a catch can on the fender with a small kn filter. It seems to work fine (30k miles at 10lbs) but it does smell when I pull up to a stoplight after a "spirited" run. What ever vapor does get sucked into the turbo, I imagine it will be "homoginized" to say the least.

Rick

 

mount in the black rubber cap on the filter, or in the neck of it.. anywhere on it.

 

I think VIPVegas's diagram is the best setup I've seen. Maintains a constant vacuum on the crankcase and doesn't allow for any unmetered air to enter the engine. That setup could easily be done for $100 and it makes to old school breather filter method look asinine. It would work the same as the stock pvc system with the exception that it draws vacuum while in boost. Best of both worlds IMO.

 

here is the check valve I used this is assembled with earl super stock barbed ended it has a 1/3psi cracking pressure but can withstand 2800psi opposite and stainless. Makes them look nice and still a little on the wallet..
Ill post pics of my catch can in morning

 

This catch can is baffled so it actually traps the oil. Two ports go to valve covers. Last port goes to Ls6 valley cover. Or plugged if not. Other side -10an ran back and T'd off to a check valve then to stock pcv portunder tb in intake. After tee check valve to turbo inlet about 8-10 inches from turbo inlet in piping

 

Nice looking units! Where did you get them? PM sent...

 

pm replied..

 

This is the routing I ended up with on my LT1. (Although I came up with it independent of this thread ) It just seems to be..

• Effective
• Cost contained
• Simple

The underside of the oil cap is completely clean every time I look. Keeps the moisture pulled out of the motor perfectly.

 

where'd you get the check valves?

 

I have a 2002 ls1 camaro, what is the pcv wire that goes from the passenger head around the steam tube up to the pcv valve?

 

Could be a grounding strap or just there to keep it in place. I removed it when I redid my PCV system.

I ran it like so, but then I'm speed density so not much concern about unmetered air. Capping the throttle body and placing a small breather next to the catch can routed to the front passanger valve cover.