Seems like these are the sought after FI kits out there nowadays ( TT v. single Turbo v. centrifugal SC). I am just learning about FI and have spent a few weeks or so trolling the section. I understand the pros/cons with supercharger v. turbocharges (i.e. lag v. belt slippage & parasitic-losses). I also sort of understand the difference between twin turbo v. single turbo (high end efficiency v. quick spool). Anyhow, I thought it would be interesting to throw a hypo out there to the experts and essentially encourage a discussion.
Assume your Goal is to build a street/strip car with 1000 rwhp + capable of chasing down 1000cc bikes on highway. You also want to enjoy the car so you want it to be a semi-reliable weekend car. The engine is a low compression LSX 454 (plenty of displacement for large turbos). Also, you already removed the A/C (no problem w/ APS overheating).
1) Which would be a more efficient/reliable kit?
2) What size/trim turbo(s)/head-unit would you go with?
3) What heads/intake would you run?
Finally, Why would you pick this setup over the others? All these setups should be capable of making the power. Why is one setup superior to the other?
Note: This is not trying to provoke a sponser war. More interested in the rational for choosing this kit over that kit rather than which kit is best.
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1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
custom truck manifold kit , turbo in the 90's mm range something that could give u that top end to chase the liter bikes down.whatever head u would want a 6 bolt head,not sure on the manifold.However depending on how the new bigger aps kit performs that could be easier with a lot less fab time required.
OFI, less back pressure, your gonna need a unit that has a very good flowing backside.
So would the F1R setup make similar power to the OFI w/ their 91mm turbo? Which would be more reliable? EPP sells an 8 rib upgrade. would this be sufficient or would a cog be necessary.
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1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
1000whp will be tough on a 8 rib. KP would be a good one to ask how to make reliable big power on a procharger. Maybe Bob has some input as well. Turbo will be where its at though when asking for more then 1000 to the tires.
1000rwhp and reliable don't go into the same sentence....IMHO.
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Check this build out, reliable LS2 build with an F-1A. Customer spun it around on a hwy (several 360's) with a Cadillac mechanic with him who wanted a ride. Bob http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=29
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Thats not 1000rwhp Bob.LOL . But it sounds like a very stout setup either way.I am betting it could hang with those bikes for a while at least
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exotic Performance Plus
Check this build out, reliable LS2 build with an F-1A. Customer spun it around on a hwy (several 360's) with a Cadillac mechanic with him who wanted a ride. Bob http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=29
why would you want a 1000rwhp for a street car?? changing tires will be like changing underwear (assuming you change them everyday haha). why not go with a d1 or a 80+mm turbo and make around 6-700 rwhp and have a blast with it? also i would not do a 454.. i would go with a iron 370 which has been proven time and time again to make rediculas amounts of hp
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TR226/Performabuilt lv2/HSW/Yankss3600/UMI
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Thats not 1000rwhp Bob.LOL . But it sounds like a very stout setup either way.I am betting it could hang with those bikes for a while at least
I've run down a lot of bikes with less horsepower, their drag coefficient is pretty high. As it is, it apparently makes enough power to swap ends going down the highway... lol
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how mechanical are you? procharger would probally be easier than a turbo.
also, there are headaches(fitment issues, heat issues, breaking stuff, etc) with all forced induction. the reason i got a procharger was that they have the least amount of issues.
__________________ 2002 NBM Firebird Formula D1sc, EPP Fmic, built 347ci, EPP Blower cam, Ls6 heads, Alky Control Meth, Kooks Headers with Cats, Magnaflow, T56 swaped, McLeod Twin Disk, HPTuners, Shaner S3, BMR LCA's, BMR PHR, 6 point wolfe and Corbeau CR1's. 480rwhp@7psi 11.217@121 1.64 60ft (stock motor)
Now Tuned by EFI Alchemy 701RWHP 638RWTQ@ 14PSI 2006 TBSS Borla weld-in, IEATSRT8, HPTuners, E-Fans and tranny cooler
why would you want a 1000rwhp for a street car?? changing tires will be like changing underwear (assuming you change them everyday haha). why not go with a d1 or a 80+mm turbo and make around 6-700 rwhp and have a blast with it? also i would not do a 454.. i would go with a iron 370 which has been proven time and time again to make rediculas amounts of hp
Although I am sure that is fun, I put down 550rwhp as it is and i am not going to spend that kinda coin for an extra 50-100 rwhp. I honestly was just interested in how these kits compared during high HP applications. Each kit is capable of 6-700 rwhp. In fact, i am sure i wouldn't go with big turbo or large head unit to start with. But as i have learned, it is never enough. I would rather look into a kit that i can grow into. The good thing about FI, is it is "relatively cheap" to change head units (or turbos) to up the boost. I wouldn't want to go with something mild (like an sts kit for instance) only to find that i will have to completely change the setup to take the next step.
Quote:
1000whp will be tough on a 8 rib. KP would be a good one to ask how to make reliable big power on a procharger. Maybe Bob has some input as well. Turbo will be where its at though when asking for more then 1000 to the tires.
Thanks for the input, i was thinking cog would be necessary.
__________________
1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
how mechanical are you? procharger would probally be easier than a turbo.
also, there are headaches(fitment issues, heat issues, breaking stuff, etc) with all forced induction. the reason i got a procharger was that they have the least amount of issues.
That is sort of what i was thinking to. As far as installation, I can handle that. I don't know about fabbing brackets and stuff like that though. Is probably out of my league.
__________________
1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
I've run down a lot of bikes with less horsepower, their drag coefficient is pretty high. As it is, it apparently makes enough power to swap ends going down the highway... lol
That is pretty impressive. Well, I think that answered my questions for the most part. The bolt on kits are good for around 800rwhp. anything past that appears as if you need some pretty extensive custom work.
From the looks of DrTurbo's video, it appears as if the 800 rwhp mark might be a better goal.
Thanks for all the input.
__________________
1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
IMHO, for a street strip application, pending the amount of "street" you do and what your definition is, your looking for way more HP than needed. I make 630 rwhp through an auto and it has no issues setting my rear DRs up and laying tread from a 50 roll. Where as this is fun, its not fun when you have to change rear tires ever few k miles if that pending on driving habits. With proper suspension and rear tires, i assume for a street application you wont be running slicks/skinnies. I feel about 600 rwhp is the happy median for the street. There is a local vette in town with 600 rwhp and he hooks up very well making it a fast street car. On the other hand there is also a 900 rwhp vette that just told me today another guys 525 hp vette felt much faster from 0-80 than his considering how much it hooks up. 1000 rwhp on the street is a joke IMO and even 800. I think with a few more suspension mods and slightly lower tire pressure in my DRs, i could hook up pretty well on the street with 650, anything more i feel is useless. Hope this helps!
Wagering from the options, the APS seems much more street car friendly than the OFI for turbo, but the OFI probably has higher HP potential. For a street car looking for a streetable HP, i would suggest the APS or Procharger. The beauty of a turbo build is that you can have exactly what you want relatively easily, street strip. Build your combo and have a boost controller set up for 600 rwhp for the street on your nice wheels and DR's, then bump up the hp to 800 ish or so when you toss on your slicks and skinnies for the track.
IMHO, for a street strip application, pending the amount of "street" you do and what your definition is, your looking for way more HP than needed. I make 630 rwhp through an auto and it has no issues setting my rear DRs up and laying tread from a 50 roll. Where as this is fun, its not fun when you have to change rear tires ever few k miles if that pending on driving habits. With proper suspension and rear tires, i assume for a street application you wont be running slicks/skinnies. I feel about 600 rwhp is the happy median for the street. There is a local vette in town with 600 rwhp and he hooks up very well making it a fast street car. On the other hand there is also a 900 rwhp vette that just told me today another guys 525 hp vette felt much faster from 0-80 than his considering how much it hooks up. 1000 rwhp on the street is a joke IMO and even 800. I think with a few more suspension mods and slightly lower tire pressure in my DRs, i could hook up pretty well on the street with 650, anything more i feel is useless. Hope this helps!
Wagering from the options, the APS seems much more street car friendly than the OFI for turbo, but the OFI probably has higher HP potential. For a street car looking for a streetable HP, i would suggest the APS or Procharger. The beauty of a turbo build is that you can have exactly what you want relatively easily, street strip. Build your combo and have a boost controller set up for 600 rwhp for the street on your nice wheels and DR's, then bump up the hp to 800 ish or so when you toss on your slicks and skinnies for the track.
Thanks man. It is just so hard to justify spending the money (thousands of dollars) for 50 more hp. I mean I put down 550 rwhp right now, I could change jets and be at 600. I will give it some thought and come to the right decision. Maybe i will just get a short block and run an extra stage of nitrous. This HP thing is addicting. The H/C package was awesome. The nitrous was even better. You know how it is, you just want more.
__________________
1999 Black WS6 w/ ~25k miles
| AFR 205s | 230/232 114 .592/.595| Fast 90/90 | N2O | NANO | 9" (411s) | 452rwhp/406rrwtq NA - 540rwhp/536rwtq N2O
If i had to buy 1 of the 3, i would go OFI.(The wait would litterally kill me though). I could probably build 2 different kits completely on my car by myself before i got the ofi kit. In the end they make greta power, and the build quality is there. For a more stock looking streetable setup aps. Im also partial to turbo since i own one.