So basically I can use a fox body rear axle and just use 94-98 axle bearings and axles right? And then get disk brakes for a 94-98 cobra and cobra calipers and everything should work correctly??
Those pieces in the bottom of the pics are misalignment spacers i ended up not using them and used a solid 3/4x1/2x1-1/8 spacer. I used them on my custom built panhard bar.
Any 8.8 housing from a 79-98 mustang will work as long as you run 94 to 98 axles for the correct length and as far as i know all the 8.8 rebuild kits are the same 79-98. not 100 percent on the 99 and up specs i have in stalled some gears in the newer ones but no axle bearings so i dont know if they are different
Does anyone on here know who it is that builds the 8.8 for the f bodies? Ive always wanted to put one of those in but if someone sells them for a decent price then i might go that way. Anybody know how i can get ahold of him? Or a price for these?
__________________ 2000 RED WS6 FORMULA M6
Headers, Cam, and a Gear
I'm not worried about a 99+ I just need to be sure about the 79-98 8.8s. But I keep seeing that the reason the newer ones were wider is to make room for the ABS reluctor rings. I don't have ABS anymore, but I don't want the rear to be 2.75" narrower per side, I'd like to stay at 2" to make getting wheels easier without spending $3k for a set LOL
I guess I'll have to join a mustang forum to ask some questions
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
Rear axle housings on 79-98 cars are the same, and the axles are the only thing thats different. And I guess that the reason for that is because of the disk brakes. And I read that if you get a 94-98 rear axle with disk brakes that they also have 31 spline axles, so if I can find a housing with 31 spline axles I may try it out and see how it holds up, it really can't be any weaker than my 10 bolt
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
Rear axle housings on 79-98 cars are the same, and the axles are the only thing thats different. And I guess that the reason for that is because of the disk brakes. And I read that if you get a 94-98 rear axle with disk brakes that they also have 31 spline axles, so if I can find a housing with 31 spline axles I may try it out and see how it holds up, it really can't be any weaker than my 10 bolt
Yes the axle are different on the 94-98 for disk brakes and abs but those are the ones you need to run! some of the newer cobras got 31 slpine carriers on the irs
Yes the axle are different on the 94-98 for disk brakes and abs but those are the ones you need to run! some of the newer cobras got 31 slpine carriers on the irs
I know I need the longer axles, I just need to find the caliper brackets unless I can find a rear out of a 94+ car which I may be able to. I have to make a few calls, but I think I have everything figured out, mabye
94+ housing, hardened 31 spline axles, true trac, 4.10s and I'll be set. I have a lead on gears and install kit for about $200, but I'm going to look and see if I can find a better deal
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
Just curious, did you have another junk 10 bolt to pull the spring perches and LCA mounts off of? Ive been dreading paying $3K for a 9"-S60 next year, maybe I'll try this route first. Im a huge fan of DIY4cheap stuff, I fabbed my own manual steering rack so this is right up my alley.
__________________ 2001 SS M6
G5X3, TSP true duals, QTP HVMC LT's, ported 241's/TB, Spec 3+, 17x11 black ZR1's, !maf, Flaming river manual rack, stock 10bolt
I've got an 8.8 right now that is for a 94+ mustang. I was going to put it in my ls1 coupe but it may make its way into my TA lol. Can you make me some of those mini ladder bar setups?
__________________ 1999 Trans Am. 347 build. and a lil nitrous.
2008 Yamaha FZ1 10.0 @ 135
im told that many people do not run this is due to the fact that the instant center is way off and is not the best type of rear setup to do..That actually a ladder bar setup is the way to and will be much better, is this true or do you have any knowledge or proven setup yet to prove them wrong?
Nice build man. Someone was going to try and mass-produce the 8.8 for the F-bodys, but I dont think that worked out.
He has a jig to do them and builds them, but he doesn't make very many. He is a member here and a couple of guys are running them with 0 problems. I want to do away with the TA all together so I'll be building a mini ladder bar setup. I think it will be super simple and if it doesn't work out I can always throw my old rear axle in, but I don't think that will happen.
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
im told that many people do not run this is due to the fact that the instant center is way off and is not the best type of rear setup to do..That actually a ladder bar setup is the way to and will be much better, is this true or do you have any knowledge or proven setup yet to prove them wrong?
Ya a actual ladder bar setup would be better! but hey this is a easy way to get a strong rear in our cars and ill se how it performs at the track when i get there. I will tell you that there are thousands of cars on the track the run leaf springs and traction bars and this has to be better than that setup
Ya a actual ladder bar setup would be better! but hey this is a easy way to get a strong rear in our cars and ill se how it performs at the track when i get there. I will tell you that there are thousands of cars on the track the run leaf springs and traction bars and this has to be better than that setup