I know of a lot of people that spend money on the best stuff money can buy and there car still doesnt perform they way it should Ill take my $600 rear over a $3000 rear any day
this type of set up gives you a very short instant center. it will give you lots of anti-squat meaning the body will separate from the rear at launch. this is good to an extent because what it is actually doing is forcing the tires into the ground. it will hit the tires hard. maybe too hard. the harder you hit the tires the better it will hook but also the faster it will unload. you most likely will not need a sway bar with this set up because it will not allow body roll similar to a regular ladder bar. the same set up can also be found in some stock eliminator cars called pete z bars. do a search for pete z bars and you will find lots of people running these and how they like them.
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
this type of set up gives you a very short instant center. it will give you lots of anti-squat meaning the body will separate from the rear at launch. this is good to an extent because what it is actually doing is forcing the tires into the ground. it will hit the tires hard. maybe too hard. the harder you hit the tires the better it will hook but also the faster it will unload. you most likely will not need a sway bar with this set up because it will not allow body roll similar to a regular ladder bar. the same set up can also be found in some stock eliminator cars called pete z bars. do a search for pete z bars and you will find lots of people running these and how they like them.
BTW nice job on the rear. saved a good amount of money doing everything yourself and used it to buy a nice set of wheels. job well done!
Thanks for the positive feedback!! and on it hiting the tires hard i plan on going to 28x11.50x15 bias ply et street later to try and help that out some
"I honed out the bolt holes a little larger on rotors to accept the 5x4 3/4 pattern"
98silver, did you order 98 mustang axles from Moser with the 5x4-3/4 bolt pattern? I just caught that statement in your first post, I just assumed you were running 5x4-1/2 wheels.
__________________ 2001 SS M6
G5X3, TSP true duals, QTP HVMC LT's, ported 241's/TB, Spec 3+, 17x11 black ZR1's, !maf, Flaming river manual rack, stock 10bolt
"I honed out the bolt holes a little larger on rotors to accept the 5x4 3/4 pattern"
98silver, did you order 98 mustang axles from Moser with the 5x4-3/4 bolt pattern? I just caught that statement in your first post, I just assumed you were running 5x4-1/2 wheels.
Yes i orderd 94-98 mustang axles from moser in 5x4-3/4 i am running chevy bolt pattern!
Last edited by 98silvertacrbn; 08-13-2009 at 12:42 PM..
what do you think of the streetability of this setup? Daily drivable?
Can you run sway bar on for the street, and take it off for the track?
I think its fine for the street and you can run a sway bar i just haven't put mine on yet. I let the wife drive around for a while yesterday she could tell anything had changed
watch ur axle side ujoint closely, if it gets too much anti squat it will blow your ujoint up. i had this problem with one of my offroad trucks. it just seems like that mini ladder bar setup is going to put a ton of stress on your torque box area and tear up bushings with all of the force being concentrated there with no torque arm. that being said, i am looking for a cheapo 8.8 to do this exact mod. i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.
__________________ 1998 black z28 cam/exhaust/nitrous
if it was a real SS it would be faster.
watch ur axle side ujoint closely, if it gets too much anti squat it will blow your ujoint up. i had this problem with one of my offroad trucks. it just seems like that mini ladder bar setup is going to put a ton of stress on your torque box area and tear up bushings with all of the force being concentrated there with no torque arm. that being said, i am looking for a cheapo 8.8 to do this exact mod. i do plan on reinforcing the torque boxes with some plates, should be more then enough. let me know if you run into any issues.
If you do subframe connectors they box in the area that you are talking about. You can also get LCAs that have rod ends instead of rubber or poly joints in them to eliminate another weak point.
With that said I still plan on doing what the OP did to my car, but I will be running the mustang bolt pattern since I plan on getting different wheels and will be running wider wheels on the rear and won't rotate them anyway. Plus it will make brake swaps easier and if I ever sell the car the new owner would have one less thing to worry about.
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
to an extent, yes. i have welded in subframes but the ''bucket'' where the control arm goes in still looks like a definite weakpoint..ESPECIALLY if hes launching hard and hooking on some slicks. IMO, a reinforced bucket with plate steel would be ideal, perhaps overkill but easy and cheap, a whole lot cheaper then trying to repair a torn out torque box.
__________________ 1998 black z28 cam/exhaust/nitrous
if it was a real SS it would be faster.
to an extent, yes. i have welded in subframes but the ''bucket'' where the control arm goes in still looks like a definite weakpoint..ESPECIALLY if hes launching hard and hooking on some slicks. IMO, a reinforced bucket with plate steel would be ideal, perhaps overkill but easy and cheap, a whole lot cheaper then trying to repair a torn out torque box.
Oh I agree 100% overkill is always better than having something fix something because you "cheaped out" I'm personally not worried about it, I'm not planning on running a sticky tire, or running at the track alot but the OP should probably consider it with the mods hes got planned, that car will get it hard once its complete. It should be a good setup though IMO for the type of driving that I do with my car and what most other people do. But I'm still planning weld in SFCs and preobably beefing up the torque boxes as well
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
Oh I agree 100% overkill is always better than having something fix something because you "cheaped out" I'm personally not worried about it, I'm not planning on running a sticky tire, or running at the track alot but the OP should probably consider it with the mods hes got planned, that car will get it hard once its complete. It should be a good setup though IMO for the type of driving that I do with my car and what most other people do. But I'm still planning weld in SFCs and preobably beefing up the torque boxes as well
I plan on building a set of lca and subframe connectors this winter i will update when i get there and maybe even a different ladder bar setup
why yes i have slamed down on it. I say it hooks pretty good on the street but the real test will be at the track
Does it hook better than the TA setup? I saw that you have a stock TA so it will be different than my car, but mine wants to hook, but with a 275/40 street tire it just won't.
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'95 M6 Swapped Polo Green Hardtop
SRP Forged Pistons, Studded Main 355, Stock Crank & Rods W/ARP Bolts, CC306, Comp Pro Mag 1.6 RRs, Cloyes DR, Melling 10% HV Oil Pump, Moroso 7 QT Oil Pan, LE3 Heads, BBK 58mm TB, Custom 3.5" CAI, Ported Intake, Holley 36# Injectors, CSR EWP, Hooker LTs, Custom X-Pipe & 2OTL True Duals W/Magnaflow Muffler, Spec Stage 3, Pro 5.0, 4.10s, ST 1.7" Drop Springs, LS1 Brakes, Full UMI Rear Suspension, Ion Tune
What did you use to cut the brackets off the 10 bolt?
Torch on both rear but when i cut the brackets off the 8.8 i kept water on it and didnt cut close to the tube than i finished with a grinder,but still keeping the housing cool with water
Ill take my $600 rear over a $3000 rear any day
