several questions regarding rear end

[68chevypu]

I just purchased my Monster clutch, and from the results that other people are listing my 10 bolt doesnt have much life in it.

My first question involved running a spool on the street. Searching has shown that it tends to be tougher to make a tight circle and that tire wear may be accelerated. Just how much is this gonna be noticable? My car is a daily driver, and is seems that my choices are limited to the spool or locker. Ive heard the truetrack doesnt really handle power that well, or is that in regards to high horsepower? I dont know that I could tolerate the noise of the locker. So Im leaning toward the spool. Any comments? Is there a clutch style limited slip available for the 9in rear that can handle around 500hp?

My second question is in regards to gear choice. The car is currently cam only, but will get heads installed when I get back. I also plan for nitrous in the future. I do not have plans to step up to a 28in tire, so is a 4.11 or 4.30 gear gonna be ok for my car?

3rd question; how important is pinion angle? I currently have a non-adjustable UMI torque arm, but if Im gonna need adjustability I would like to know so I can sell it unused and by an adjustable one.

and final question is regarding the yoke. Is there a major difference in the 1310 yoke versus the 1350? and after install of the rear end is it just a matter of swapping the ujoint itself on the driver shaft? or is there more involved? (ie shortening or rebalancing the driveshaft)



Thanks for the help folks.

[Intercooler2]

Your post is a little confusing. Is it an A4 or M6? It sounds like you want to go 9" and not fix the 10 bolt right? Yes a clutch type posi is out there for the 9". It is called a Trac-Loc and I have that in my car because I didn't want the things you heard ( mine is like a daily). The failure mode in them is the cast clutch cover. Now you can get a billet which is what I have and should be fine 500 HP or more. Drives real nice on the street! As to the other questions that is alot of gear regardless. Also you will need an adjustable to really set the car up to do what you want and hope you have a driveshaft that is good but the universals don't seem to be a huge issue.

[68chevypu]

Sorry, it is an m6, and I dont really want to swap the 10bolt, but from what Ive seen from other monster clutch owners my 10 bolt will be toast soon. and wanted to get answers to these questions before the time comes to buy a new diff

[ssvert99]

on the diff unit, if you dont plan to go over 600 hp, any of them will be ok.
a spool is not exactly street friendly, but there are several people that use them in street/strip vehicles. if you run soft compound tires it will not make noise when turning. a spool is the lightest, strongest, and least cost of all of them.
a locker is not exactly the best thing in the world either, but again there are several people that use them. it is available in 35 spline, but even 600hp will be fine with 31 spline. some people have complained about the popping noise and handling characteristics of the locker.
a Truetrac is a great diff unit, smooth and quiet, but is only available in 31 spline and 600 hp would be by rule of thumb max in a M6 car. we have used them in cars up to 800 hp without problems, but with auto trans.
the clutch type trac-lock unit is oem design, but as mentioned above is available in billet cases and is very durable. this is the best bang for the buck in a posi unit. available up to 31 spline, and is what we use in our base, bolt-in fabricated 9 inch package. cant tell you a power limit, because we actually have never seen one break and the clutch unit is rebuildable.
the new Wavetrac is an option now as well. 35 spline, great warranty, mechanical posi unit. a bit pricy, but is a unit you should never have a problem with and is extremely street and strip friendly.

the average m6 car has been using the 4.11 gears, but if you have plans of a power adder, you may want to go 3.89, especially in the 26-27 inch tires. the more power you make, the less gear you need. best thing is to determine what you engine rpm range is and figure your tire size and then plug the info into a gear calculator and it will tell you the optimum ratio.

if your torque arm is new or used... sell it. this opens up the door to get into adjustable setups and is definitely the way to go. cant tell you how many customers that have sold their existing parts to get into the fabricated 9 inch package we offer that comes with a chromemoly adjustable torque arm and crossmember assy for your application.

the 1350 vs the 1310 is a no-brainer. a 1350 is the 1-ton truck u-joint and is substantially stronger than the smaller 1330-1310 series. almost all new rearends are gonna come with the 1350 yoke- and its as simple as if you have the need for a better rearend, you need a better driveshaft as well. the shaft is just gonna be the weak link otherwise, and replacement costs will be much much higher due to other damage if you break the stocker. a conversion u-joint is available for the stock shaft if needed, but the length is also not correct.

hope this helps... look me up when you are ready to purchase as i will get you the best deal out there in any rearend for your f-body car.

[68chevypu]

thank you very much for the input. Ill keep all that in mind when I look into purchasing a new rear.