Building a junkyard 9" compared to 8.8
#63
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Well, just spent a grand even shipped to my door. So far I am at about $1500.00 this also includes the Currie tourqe arm bracket. I could have made one of these but would rather just buy this one and be done. It doesnt look as strong as other designs, but I may beef it up using some steel plate. I will just have to see when I get it.
This is a kit from Quick Performance
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Inc...Q5fAccessories
Yukon Aluminum threw bolt center section supose to be good to 1000 HP
Yukon complete install kit
Aluminum Daytona style pinion support
Billet steel 1350 Yoke
Also added a 3.70 Richmond Excel ring and pinion and a new 31 splie Ford Motorsports posi.
I hate to not use sponsors on the site but, I found this and thought it was a good deal for what I am getting. Plus I already had them on the phone so I went with it.
This is a kit from Quick Performance
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-Inc...Q5fAccessories
Yukon Aluminum threw bolt center section supose to be good to 1000 HP
Yukon complete install kit
Aluminum Daytona style pinion support
Billet steel 1350 Yoke
Also added a 3.70 Richmond Excel ring and pinion and a new 31 splie Ford Motorsports posi.
I hate to not use sponsors on the site but, I found this and thought it was a good deal for what I am getting. Plus I already had them on the phone so I went with it.
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 01-10-2011 at 11:58 AM.
#64
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I also got the 10 bolt cut up this weekend and the brackets removed. I took all my measurements then got out the porta band. Poor little thing....na it deserved it.
#69
If the axles are the same length, then the pinion is off center. Your driveshaft will not point down the centerline of the car, it will be angled toward the passenger side a little.
#71
The rear end that I have has equal length shafts and the pinion is not in the center. Drop your old center in and measure from both housing ends to the center of the pinion and see if there the same.
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If you think about neither is the 10 bolt. Because, both axels are same in it too. Are aftermarket axels the same for the 9, in the f body? Need to do some research.
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 01-10-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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Well the ford housing I have definatly does not put the pinion in the center. I feel stupid for not checking before I welded the ends on the housing. Now I have to figure out what I am going to do. I figured since the 10 bolt axles are the same length and the Ford axles are the same length that the pinion would be close to the same location on both rears. Its not looking like it. Just roughly measureing the 10 bolt under my car it looks like the pinion is about 1.5 inches towards the passenger side. Can anyone verify this?
Just found this...
Centered pinion- to have a centered pinion, the left axle has to be 4" shorter than the right axle in all cases.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=255093
Just found this...
Centered pinion- to have a centered pinion, the left axle has to be 4" shorter than the right axle in all cases.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=255093
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 01-12-2011 at 08:24 AM.
#74
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It looks like in the trucks they offset the pinion 4 inches to the passenger side. 2" in the center section itself, and the other 2" in the passenger side axel tube. This allowed them to mass-produce the axels at the same length in the trucks. Now what I am going to do is cut the tubes and move them to the opposite side and make the pinion in the correct place. I still need to get a good measurement off the 10 bolt as to how much it is offset. I roughly measured under the car and came up with a 1.5" offset to the passenger side. Its getting pretty complicated. Now I have to buy axles, so my savings will only be in the housing. Oh well I still enjoy doing it. I will get some pictures after the work we get done this weekend. I got my center section yesterday, boy is it nice!
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No, because the only truck rear wide enough to use the housing (73 and up), which is the one that I have, has the pinion offset 4 inches to the passenger side. The pre 73 trucks had 31 spline axels, big wheel bearings but are more narrow over all. They also have the pinion 4 inches to the left. In the trucks it didnt matter that the drive shaft was 4 inches to the passenger side because there is nothing under there for the DS to hit. In the cars the pinion is more in the center because of the tranny tunnel. Most of the cars got 28 spline axels and small wheel bearings, which means the ends of the housings taper down. I think the Ranchero, Torino, and hi performance Mustangs only got the best combos from the factory. 31 spline axels, big wheel bearings, and they would have had a centered or very little offset pinion. Finding one of those would be very hard. If they would have centered the pinion in the truck then that would be awesome because we would have a lot more rear ends in the junk yards for our f bodies. The way the Ford center section is made is what causes the funky axel length. The axel has to go further into the carrier on one side to engage the splines. SO if you get a 9 inch and both axels are the same length it means it’s probably out of a truck and the pinion is 4 inches to the passenger side. If you get one and the pinion is in the center then the axles will be different lengths around 4 inch difference. The 10 bolt has an offset as well, I think its about an 11/2" to the passenger side. The way its looking getting a junk 9 and building it, you are still going to need to buy axels. There may be some comdo of axels out there from other cars that will work but I haven’t found it.
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The housing has been cut and welded back together. We almost messed up. The center only needed to be moved 1 inch. Since the center has 2 inch offset made into it my moving it over 1 inch you are also moving the 2 inch offset in the pinion. So its like moving 3 inches. I measured 1 inch offset in the 10 bolt to the passenger side. Now that is what the 9 is at.
Getting ready to cut
Getting ready to cut
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What we figured out is that this housing will work without having to cut the tubes. If I would have checked the pinion offset before welding on the ends on. The housing is wide enough to cut the ends off still shift everything over. The Moser ends are pretty wide so you gain your length back with them. It has been a learning experiance.
I bought the Currie TA bracket. It looks like it was desighed for the housing with the wider center. We had to use some solid shim stock to space it out off the housing. It also looks like they used stock style center section when they made it because all the extra ribbing on the Yukon center was causing some clearence problems. The way it is now the bracket will have the TA about an inch towards the drivers and an inch further forwad. I just hope there is enough room under the car and nothing hits. I think the TA has enough room on the end that it can go the extra inch forwad. Here are some more pictures, this thing looks huge compared to the 10 bolt, the pictures dont do it justice. I need to get some longer bolts for the TA bracket.
I bought the Currie TA bracket. It looks like it was desighed for the housing with the wider center. We had to use some solid shim stock to space it out off the housing. It also looks like they used stock style center section when they made it because all the extra ribbing on the Yukon center was causing some clearence problems. The way it is now the bracket will have the TA about an inch towards the drivers and an inch further forwad. I just hope there is enough room under the car and nothing hits. I think the TA has enough room on the end that it can go the extra inch forwad. Here are some more pictures, this thing looks huge compared to the 10 bolt, the pictures dont do it justice. I need to get some longer bolts for the TA bracket.