I got a stupid question.... my friend got a 92 camaro RS with 2.73 open diff not LSD hes thinking of 3.73s is there a huge different on 305 TBI ? are the two wheels gonna burn or they will be the same one wheel burner?
yes & need to change carrier too for posi or lim slp
Yes I do kno M6 cars came with 3:42's stock and I kno I have the GU6 code. but then why at the beginning of this does it say 2000rpm @ 80 is a diff gear ?
Because it was quoting speeds for an A4. The A4 has a different overdrive ratio than the M6. I believe the A4's overdrive is something like .7:1 whereas the M6's 6th gear ratio is .5:1
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A 4 with 2.73's 3500 vig stall with long tubes I shaved off 1.2 seconds off my 1/4 et but unfortunately I put in the stall and long tubes in at the same time so can't really give the converter all the glory but I can tell you go stall first it really woke my old tired LT1 up. Hopefully installing my 3.42's this week but at same time adding my new rims with DR's but either way will post my gains.
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Oh forgot to mention I have a really crappy 60' can't keep my street tires from roasting never had that prob with the factory converter. And one more thing to consider about going to a stall converter its smaller and lighter and frees up some reciprocating weight.
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i have 3.42 on my truck, how big of a difference will 4.11 make?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
Stock Gear Ratios:
M6: 3.42
A4 Standard: 2.73 (GU2 code on the door sticker)
A4 Performance Axel: 3.23 (GU5 code on the door sticker)
WS6 and SS models came with 3.23s.
Your A4 did not come with 3.42s.
If your sticker is gone you tell which gears you have by your highway rpms:
3.23s @ 2000 rpm = 67 mph; 2.73s @ 2000 rpm = 80 mph
3.15s were available in A4 Vettes
The attached file has the mph & rpm for the most popular gear ratios for F-bodies:
M6:
3.73
3.90 (requires aftermarket rear)
4.10
A4:
3.42
3.73
4.10
The mph assume a stock 245/50/16 F-body tire. Those on 17" wheels will find this pretty close since your tires are a narrower aspect ratio. If you run ET Streets, they are generally larger than stock tires. Depending upon which tire you select, you can add 2% - 5% to the mph numbers to estimate your rpm for a given trap speed.
A stock A4's converter is unlocked at WOT. Therefore when you cross the line your rpms will be higher than shown in the chart. While the amount slip will vary by converter, you should figure an extra 5 - 8% above the rpm shown in chart when looking at the high rpm numbers where you are likely to be at WOT.
If you want to play further with tire sizes and gear ratios go here:
Swapping from 3.23s to 3.42s is a waste of money. There is barely enough gain to justify the cost of a bottle of gear oil and additive, no less buying the gears. If you have 3.23s your next move is to 3.73s.
If you don't have a high stall torque converter, you really should look at that first. The big gains come from a converter, not from gears. You'll be amazed what a 3000 stall converter will do to the launch of a 2.73 geared car. Look in the automatic transmission forum for more info on them.
This was a good read. I have questions regarding performance so I will keep searching
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You convertor guys say put the convertor in first but i don't see how in the world you can drive a car around with a 4000 stall without it screaming and burning a pile of fuel. Sounds great for a race car but not if you want to drive it around all the time. Convertor guys chime in and give me your input. It seems like it would be screaming and you darn sure cannot fly down the freeway without cooking it with heat. Am I wrong? Drive it from Houston to Dallas cruising at 80 and it will burn twice as much fuel and produce so much heat even with a motorhome size trans cooler,,,it aint gonna live. Is the advice convertor for a race car and gears for a DD or weekend cruiser??? Chime on in.
You convertor guys say put the convertor in first but i don't see how in the world you can drive a car around with a 4000 stall without it screaming and burning a pile of fuel. Sounds great for a race car but not if you want to drive it around all the time. Convertor guys chime in and give me your input. It seems like it would be screaming and you darn sure cannot fly down the freeway without cooking it with heat. Am I wrong? Drive it from Houston to Dallas cruising at 80 and it will burn twice as much fuel and produce so much heat even with a motorhome size trans cooler,,,it aint gonna live. Is the advice convertor for a race car and gears for a DD or weekend cruiser??? Chime on in.
Not sure who mis-informed you about converters but lets answer some questions from your post.
I would hands down put a converter in first before I put in gears. I have a Yank PT4400 and I DAILY DRIVE my Trans Am to work, to my g/fs, store, what ever city, highway anything.
It doesnt scream what so ever, it doesn't cook on the highway or rev out crazy either once I get going over 45 MPH the converter will lock and bring the RPM's all the way down like a stock car. I could easily drive from Houston to Dallas if I lived in Texas, I don't lost any gas mileage on the highway but some in the city. I run a B&M 24,000 GVW Trans cooler and have no issues.
Hope this helps you out some if you have any more questions feel free to PM me!!!
I have learned a lot from this thread. I have a 99 SS M 6. I am trying to get a kick in my pants more than I am worried about drag times or gas milage. I know the 410 gears will feel fast and cause higher revs through out the gears. I think the car will feel more torquey (if that is a word). Can I simulate 410 gears by driving at say 750 RPMs higher than I normaly would through out the gears? I feel like I am missing something I can't put my finger on. I feel vulnerable at the top and bottom of my gears when I am driving, like if I am eying someone up or comming to a possible yellow light I want to down shift. I kind of feel like I need gears since I can not get into major mods yet. Any advice or info would be great. Any M6 feed back on the motive 390 gears or 410 gears in general would be great. Thanks in advance
got a howling in the rear end and have narrowed it down to my ring and pinion. so its time for some new gears. i have a m6 with 3.42 and i want to go to 4.10s but ive got a buddy who has them in his t/a and he blows the tires off 1-3 gear.....and he dont even have a 2nd gear! and thats what concerns me. so i wanna say 3.73 but ive heard theres no difference between them and the stocker. any suggestions?
3.73's are only meant for autos. think you need 4.10's
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