how hard was it to pull off the PVC tube off the intake ?, because for me it to hard and I dont want to break anything, is there a special tool I can use. or should I spray some WD-40 and let is soak before trying again?
Mine comes off extremely easy. Little pull and it slides right off.
Maybe use some dykes so you can pull it straight off easily and you don't put pressure on the port uneven. DON'T snap it off.
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__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
I'd use the WD-40 or similar type penetrating lube. Then twist before you pull.
__________________ Disclaimer: You have just read my opinions. They may not be the same as yours. Do your own research, and don’t believe the marketing BS, just because the salesman said it was so.
Should the MCCC be sent into a cold motor or one that is up to operating temp? I'm guessing you just hold the valve down until the can is almost done and then kill the motor?
Once you wait the 30 min and start the motor is there a preferred method? As in, let it idle? rev it alot? rev it a little? Go for a WOT run?
And while I'm asking dumb questions... One can of seafoam poured into one full tank of gas? Nothing else to know?
Should the MCCC be sent into a cold motor or one that is up to operating temp? I'm guessing you just hold the valve down until the can is almost done and then kill the motor?
Once you wait the 30 min and start the motor is there a preferred method? As in, let it idle? rev it alot? rev it a little? Go for a WOT run?
And while I'm asking dumb questions... One can of seafoam poured into one full tank of gas? Nothing else to know?
I did mine while the engine was hot, I think its better that way because the crud will break down easier if its hot while its sitting and soaking in for 30-45 minutes.
Start it up after you wait, let it idle for about a minute. Then give it some medium revs, nothing crazy. If you get a loto f smoke with those little revs, keep doing it. Even hold it at 1,800 rpm or so if the smoke is pouring out heavy. After 10 minutes go for a normal drive. Don't go WOT for about 5 minutes of driving, and go into the throttle slowly all the way to WOT.
ONe full can of Sea fOam into a HALF tank of gas. Even a 1/4 tank is ok.
Look at the new thread just made about the MCCC. You can see the blips of the throttle makes it smoke heavily.
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
Curious. Would running anything like SeaFoam or the Mopar CCC reduce the life of my oil? Should I wait before I'm ready to do an oil change?
BTW, I am a dodge stratus owner and will be using the Mopar CCC for the high end. I may add some SeaFoam to the crank case for a few miles before my next oil change to 'help' me do a gradual swap to full-synthetic, since I'm going full-synthetic from a blend. I'll be swapping to Mobil 1 next time! Yay for PAO based group IV oils! =P
I just don't want to waste my first oil change to full synthetic because Mobil 1 recommends a gradual change over to full synthetic for engines that have ran conventional for a long time. Risk of leaks appearing and blow-by/ring needing to re-seat if serious cleaning is done with the synthetic.
I've been using valvoline max life synthetic blend for the last 3 oil changes after I'm sure its only ran mostly conventional the life of the engine prior(purchased the car at 89,000 from my sister). The car has 114,000 miles and I really want to try and clean the top end before switching to synthetic. Also, not just another petroleum based in a group III, but the higher end oils that last longer between changes, of course with a good filter to boot. ^_^
PS: I use SeaFoam in the gas tank every oil change to help keep the injectors clean.
Curious. Would running anything like SeaFoam or the Mopar CCC reduce the life of my oil? Should I wait before I'm ready to do an oil change?
If you want to flush the crankcase, buy two bottles of engine flush and pour it into the oil right before you do an oil change. Let it run for 5-10 minutes. Then change you oil normally. A full can of Sea Foam will do the same thing.
Quote:
BTW, I am a dodge stratus owner and will be using the Mopar CCC for the high end. I may add some SeaFoam to the crank case for a few miles before my next oil change to 'help' me do a gradual swap to full-synthetic, since I'm going full-synthetic from a blend. I'll be swapping to Mobil 1 next time! Yay for PAO based group IV oils! =P
I just don't want to waste my first oil change to full synthetic because Mobil 1 recommends a gradual change over to full synthetic for engines that have ran conventional for a long time. Risk of leaks appearing and blow-by/ring needing to re-seat if serious cleaning is done with the synthetic.
I've been using valvoline max life synthetic blend for the last 3 oil changes after I'm sure its only ran mostly conventional the life of the engine prior(purchased the car at 89,000 from my sister). The car has 114,000 miles and I really want to try and clean the top end before switching to synthetic. Also, not just another petroleum based in a group III, but the higher end oils that last longer between changes, of course with a good filter to boot. ^_^
PS: I use SeaFoam in the gas tank every oil change to help keep the injectors clean.
Good deal with the Sea Foam in the fual tank to keep the entire fuel system clean. Thats the ponly thing that Sea Foam should be used for on a car.
Cleaning the top end has nothing to do with your oil, unless you have valve seal issues or bad rings.
Oil.....MY OPINION....I think you're wasting your time and money going to synthetic oil. If you just change your oil every 3,000 miles, there is absolutely NOTHING that synthetic oil will do for your engine...nothing. If anything....when you go to synthetic you will start to burn oil and have blow-by from a high mileage engine. Stay with regular oil. 10w40 if it were mine. I use 20w50 on my 427ci, it loves it and its over 120,000 miles.
And "Mobil 1" is totally full of shit when they tell people to swith over slowly....thats their little marketing ploy/scam to make people think, "wow, if I do the change over slowly I can be a synthetic person too." Its complete bullshit. Rings and seals DO NOT seat twice, or re-seat as those morons say. You have 114,000 miles, your engine isn't doing any changes, its a done deal, thats it.
Stay regular oil and change it every 3,000, thats the best you can do for your engine.
BTW, I do a crankcase flush at every oil change.
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
Please explain why you start burning oil by switching to synthetic.
Its thinner and when it gets hot it really gets thin. IT will then escape easier.
There's a thread on here somewhere that popped up i nthe past 2 days. Someone switched to synthetic on a high mileage engine, and now its blowing smoke.
Its common sense really. When people are burning oil due to worn rings and they switch to a thicker oil, it will slow that burn down, if not stop it for awhile. Thats why they make engine "honey", on the bottle its called "Stop OIl Burning" or "Stop Leak", you pour it into the oil and it makes the viscosity go UP, making it thicker, making it harder to get by worn areas.
Simple.
Hell, if I just put in 10w30 or 10w40 right now, I will burn alot more oil because I have 120,000+ miles on my engine....I need the thicker 20w50 to keep from burning so much oil.
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
I may have missed this, Do you have to change the oil after using this mopar cleaner? I seafoamed a couple years ago & changed the oil after 100 miles because I did put it in the crankcase. Thanks
Its thinner and when it gets hot it really gets thin. IT will then escape easier.
There's a thread on here somewhere that popped up i nthe past 2 days. Someone switched to synthetic on a high mileage engine, and now its blowing smoke.
Its common sense really. When people are burning oil due to worn rings and they switch to a thicker oil, it will slow that burn down, if not stop it for awhile. Thats why they make engine "honey", on the bottle its called "Stop OIl Burning" or "Stop Leak", you pour it into the oil and it makes the viscosity go UP, making it thicker, making it harder to get by worn areas.
Simple.
Hell, if I just put in 10w30 or 10w40 right now, I will burn alot more oil because I have 120,000+ miles on my engine....I need the thicker 20w50 to keep from burning so much oil.
Yeah, I read that years ago. It's mostly meaningless. He talks mainly about 212*F to 300+*F....something we all never ever experience. My engine rarely ever see's 210*F. A waste of a write up for us in that respect. He's comparing synthetics to regular oil at stupid temps...who cares.
But he does agree with some of what I say. Like going 6,000, 7,000 and 8,000 miles between changes, thats just ridiculous and people are killing their engines.
He also talks about thicker oils keeping bad gaskets from leaking...thats stupid and I agree with him....fix the damn gaskets. Bit when an engine is older and the rings are worn..but the engine runs like new still and just burns a little oil, using a thiker oil LIKE I DO, fixes that problem. If he says otherwise, he's wrong.
He talks alot about cold starts...nothing that we're talking about here, so it doesn't matter.
The last paragraph in "104", just plain stupid. My starter is 11+ years old, I've only had 3 batteries in 11+ years, one alternator and my 427 is over 120,000 miles and my stock engine had 60,000+ miles before my 427 went in. I got the same MPG as anyone else in this country with a comprable 427ci type set-up. All that shit in that paragraph is complete bullshit.
[b]The synthetic lubricated engine will turn over easier. This has the effect of using less power from your starter motor. It will last longer. Your battery has less of a current draw. This will also last longer. The battery was discharged less during the start so the alternator will rob less power from your engine to recharge. The alternator lasts longer and you get a little better gas economy.
He's an idiot if he thinks using 20w50 over 10w30 won't help an engine that has worn rings. Its done all the time. And I'll say it again.....if I use 10w30 I will lose 1 qrt in 100 miles, PERIOD! I used to run into the quicky oil change places for my oil changes but they only use 10w30 (and my engine WILL NOT work with that) or they'll charge you way too much extra for 20w50. So I have to do it myself. I also have shit for oil pressure with 10w30, unlike 68psi on cold start-up and rarely ever seeing below 30 psi when hot.
It works, thats it. When someone shows me a synthetic oil, fully built 427ci with 120,000+ miles and still running like new, then all I will be able to say is...synthetic must work as good as regular oil. I'm not knocking synthetic oil, but I do give my opinion that its NOT needed to get HIGH mileage out of any type of (American made) engine if changes are done every 3,000.
Dat be it..........
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
hey LS6427 which is better for your fuel system seafoam or techron?
No idea. I just know what has worked like a charm for me for 11+ years. 1 can of Sea Foam every 3-4 months into a 1/4-1/2 tank of gas. Never had any type of fuel system failure from the tank to the injectors.
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats) (cats are gutted now)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" exhaust w/Magnaflow Muffler, Built 4L60E..by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
Its thinner and when it gets hot it really gets thin. IT will then escape easier.
There's a thread on here somewhere that popped up i nthe past 2 days. Someone switched to synthetic on a high mileage engine, and now its blowing smoke.
Its common sense really. When people are burning oil due to worn rings and they switch to a thicker oil, it will slow that burn down, if not stop it for awhile. Thats why they make engine "honey", on the bottle its called "Stop OIl Burning" or "Stop Leak", you pour it into the oil and it makes the viscosity go UP, making it thicker, making it harder to get by worn areas.
Simple.
Hell, if I just put in 10w30 or 10w40 right now, I will burn alot more oil because I have 120,000+ miles on my engine....I need the thicker 20w50 to keep from burning so much oil.
.
Except synthetic is thinner when cold than conventional, yes (and that's one benefit of it, flows better when cold, protecting better at startup). But when warm, 30 weight is 30 weight. It will be the same viscosity (approximately, there is an allowable range). If it isn't, then it can't be a 30 weight oil.
120k miles isn't that much to have caused that much wear to require 20w50 to keep from burning oil. Sounds like you've got excessive wear on your rings. And too thick isn't good on your bearings, although with that much wear on your rings you probably have some excess wear on the bearings as well I would imagine.
By the way, I've only gone through 1 battery in 11 years on this car. I've only owned it 2 years, but when the battery died in February 2008, it was the original battery from the assembly line. I doubt it ever had synthetic oil before I got it though. I've only recently switched to it (heck when I can get mobil 1 high mileage and a filter for 30 bucks on sale, why not?). It is 5W-30. No burning, no leaking.
__________________
98 V6 with a lid and 3.42 Torsen - DD Spring Summer Fall and Winter - for now.
Thanks for answering the question. Personally, I'm going to do a little more research before deciding to switch to synthetic or not. If I'm only going to do 3k mile oil changes there is no point money wise.
The link provided above indicates something that is true. If the synthetic 5w30 in my engine cleans it out fairly well it is possible a worn engine will need a thicker oil; 10w 30 or 40 for example, if there is a lot of oil leaks to be found from the cleaning synthetic does to an engine. Since it has ran conventional for a long time and if it had poor service, then you'll likely have lots of deposits and carbon build up. w00t! ...but anyway if its nothing too major the claim is that synthetic will over time minimize a slow leak that may appear from swapping over.
ls6---- do you think its a bad idea to use seafoam or MCCC on a high mileage engine ( my 99 ls1 ta has about 96k) if that would be its FIRST time and its NEVER been done before?? I bought the car with 72k so i have no idea what was done before that, since ive had it i have used synthetic and changed it every 3 months (usually works to around 3k for me) religiously.
i think you said its also good to put a can of seafoam in with a half tank of gas every oil change? but not the crankcase right?
I am just wondering this because right now with 96k my engine is running amazing, absolutely NO burned oil between changes, great power and not a single problem.
Also i just had a thought, with what you think about oil and changes etc, what do you think about Amsoil and the company saying you only need to change the oil either once a year or 35k?? Just throwing that out there.
__________________ White 99 T/A---- 94k--- long tubes, ory, magnaflo, qtec cutout, lid, ws6 intake, ls6 manifold, free mods, tune, MT ET Streets n yank SS 4000- 335ish HP dynojet....
1996 Trans Am - 353 | OEM Ram Air Setup | PCMforLess tune | All free mods | UMI STB l 209/217 .465/.485 116 LSA Cam | ISKY Springs | Edelbrock Shorties | GMMG Catback w/ Cutout | UMI PHB | Lowered w/Bilsteins | 256rwhp/295rwtq on a Dynojet
