I ordered a 180 degree stat for my 02 Z28. When i go to install this do i just drain the radiator pop off the houseing switch the stat put it houseing back on then fill the radiator back up and im good or is there more to it??? Anything that is vitally important when i install this. Any help or suggestions are appriciated! Thanks!
No its pretty simple just drain the radiator and replace. When refilling remove one of the coolant lines from the tb or coolant bypass tube to allow air bubbles to escape. Start it the first time with the radiator cap off and let the thermostat open so you keep an eye on the water level and add if needed.
Since you have an 02 check your owner's manual. Mine said the 5.7L's have a 180 stat factory.
__________________ 2002 Silverado Daily driver. 1996 Z28 2001 LS1/4L60E, SS hood, UMI k-member & STB, SLP lid, LT's, ory, LM1 dumped, SFCs, LCAs, Adj PHR, 3.42s. FLT lvl4 and 4c on the way. 2009 Harley-Davidson XL 1200C Vance & Hines Shortshots, 12" apes, stainless cables, custom pegs and grips, chrome rear sprocket, skulls everywhere, lots more.
I ordered a 180 degree stat for my 02 Z28. When i go to install this do i just drain the radiator pop off the houseing switch the stat put it houseing back on then fill the radiator back up and im good or is there more to it??? Anything that is vitally important when i install this. Any help or suggestions are appriciated! Thanks!
Just take the two bolts off the t-stat housing, pull it out, swap the t-stats and bolt it back on. Then take the radiator cap off and top off the coolant.
Start the engine, with the radiator cap STILL OFF. While you're waiting the approximate 15 minutes for it to get hot enough for the t-stat to open...massage the upper and lower radiator hoses to move the coolant through, that should take care of all the air bubbles. Works every time. You'll see little bubbles coming up in the radiator fill neck.
I did a coolant flush yesterday and when I do I remove my t-stat and just pull the drain plug and let it run like that for 15 minutes. It flushes every drop out that way. Then I put the t-stat back in and do what I said above.
Just make sure you're bouncing back and forth watching you temp guage just to make sure its not getting too hot...IF a bubble does cause a problem.
The lower hose will always have coolant in it. But if you feel the top hose has nothing in it, squeeze the lower hose alot more.
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__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" custom "Y" back to a Magnaflow Muffler, Built tranny...by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
just a tip, use a screwdriver or something to carefully pry and break the seal between the thermostat "neck" and the radiator hose. then twist it back and forth and pull it out. took me a while just because it was 25 degrees outside and there wasnt much room to wiggle with winter gloves on.
just out of curiousity, why are you replacing it? is yours sticking or is it for "performance?"
__________________
2000 trans am A4|3.23's|ssra|lid|ported tb|hooker lt's|ory|magnaflow catback|tune
35/21mm swaybars|bilsteins|hypercoils|adjustable phb|adjustable lca's|lca rb's|sfc's|tq arm 340rwhp - 355rwtq uncorrected
just a tip, use a screwdriver or something to carefully pry and break the seal between the thermostat "neck" and the radiator hose.
I never take the rubber hose off the t-stat housing neck. I just unbolt the t-stat housing, 2 bolts. Then pull the housing away from the water pump, then take the t-stat out.
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__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" custom "Y" back to a Magnaflow Muffler, Built tranny...by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
just a tip, use a screwdriver or something to carefully pry and break the seal between the thermostat "neck" and the radiator hose. then twist it back and forth and pull it out. took me a while just because it was 25 degrees outside and there wasnt much room to wiggle with winter gloves on.
just out of curiousity, why are you replacing it? is yours sticking or is it for "performance?"
Im doing it because i drive 100 miles to the track and im hoping to keep my car a little cooler before i get there. And does anyone know how many gallons of coolant i need?
Im doing it because i drive 100 miles to the track and im hoping to keep my car a little cooler before i get there. And does anyone know how many gallons of coolant i need?
How much coolant/water you use depends on where you live.
You'd get better cooling at the track by blasting your heater a couple minutes before you stage. The needle should drop significantly.
Might as well go with a 160 and reprogram the fans.
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" custom "Y" back to a Magnaflow Muffler, Built tranny...by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
I never take the rubber hose off the t-stat housing neck. I just unbolt the t-stat housing, 2 bolts. Then pull the housing away from the water pump, then take the t-stat out.
hmmm maybe i just didn't pay close attention when i did mine. i figured since they gave me a new housing along with the new thermostat it was all kinda one piece. didn't know you could just swap out the thermo itself like on standard small blocks. interesting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 02_camaroz28
Im doing it because i drive 100 miles to the track and im hoping to keep my car a little cooler before i get there. And does anyone know how many gallons of coolant i need?
i believe the stock thermostat is like 182 or 187. not gonna see much difference. and i bought 2 jugs of the unmixed dexcool(then you mix it 50/50 with water) and i used about 1 and 1/8 of them. i didn't completely drain mine though, just what was above the thermostat.
__________________
2000 trans am A4|3.23's|ssra|lid|ported tb|hooker lt's|ory|magnaflow catback|tune
35/21mm swaybars|bilsteins|hypercoils|adjustable phb|adjustable lca's|lca rb's|sfc's|tq arm 340rwhp - 355rwtq uncorrected
hmmm maybe i just didn't pay close attention when i did mine. i figured since they gave me a new housing along with the new thermostat it was all kinda one piece. didn't know you could just swap out the thermo itself like on standard small blocks. interesting.
Yes, the t-stats coem out of the housings.
Quote:
i believe the stock thermostat is like 182 or 187. not gonna see much difference. and i bought 2 jugs of the unmixed dexcool(then you mix it 50/50 with water) and i used about 1 and 1/8 of them. i didn't completely drain mine though, just what was above the thermostat.
Depending on where you live, cold or warm climates. is what dictates how you mix your coolant. We, down here in Florida use no more then half jug of Dexcool, mainly for lubrication of the system. I know alot of people who use 100% hose water, no coolant. Been doing it for decades, its perfectly fine. But if you're in a place where it gets to freezing temps, you'll need coolant of course. 1 and an 1/8 is fine. Thats less than 50% Dexcool, but thats good. Unless you live in Fargo. lol
.
__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" custom "Y" back to a Magnaflow Muffler, Built tranny...by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
I never take the rubber hose off the t-stat housing neck. I just unbolt the t-stat housing, 2 bolts. Then pull the housing away from the water pump, then take the t-stat out.