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Old 08-21-2009, 10:18 AM   #21
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I am so close to going down this route. I am sick as hell of my car being an oil sucking pig.

It's got 28k miles on it and goes through a quart in less than 1k miles. As you mentioned, all that oil does nothing good for my wideband either.

I have the revextreme catch can, which doesn't catch shit. I am also running the oil cap breather. It's awful no one can come up with a functioning pcv system, that does not suck oil.

Sounds like you're on the right path though
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:33 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by 99_SS_LS1 View Post
I am so close to going down this route. I am sick as hell of my car being an oil sucking pig.

It's got 28k miles on it and goes through a quart in less than 1k miles. As you mentioned, all that oil does nothing good for my wideband either.

I have the revextreme catch can, which doesn't catch shit. I am also running the oil cap breather. It's awful no one can come up with a functioning pcv system, that does not suck oil.

Sounds like you're on the right path though
The path has ended...what I have done works 100%. I haven't burned any oil in 3+ weeks like this. I went from adding 1 qrt every 2 weeks....to adding NOTHING. My oil is still full. Engine runs better/smoother. Not rich anymore so better gas mileage and no black bumper from soot. Saving money.

Done deal.

Plus, I have fresh air constantly being sucked in from my drivers side valve cover breather and valley cover breather, I can feel the suction with my finger on them at idle. No more going into the intake because I reduced the suction flow by half.

Get rid of the catch can, they're a waste of money.

All that is needed is a "reduced amount of suction" AND an "easier way for air to enter the crankcase" (via the breathers).

Its cheap, it takes 20 minutes...........do it. I was thinking of maybe buying a shitload of parts needed and selling them as easy bolt-on kits. It would literally take 5 minutes to install this way once you receive it. You have to get the flow reduction correct in the PCV line, thats the key. I found the best pieces to use but I want to try one more this weekend.

Just beware of some assclowns who NEVER do any experimenting, but will tell you it doesn't work because they are know-it-alls.

.
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Last edited by LS6427; 08-21-2009 at 04:42 PM..
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:35 PM   #23
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Id like to do it as well. Can you make a list of all the parts needed?
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:48 PM   #24
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Id like to do it as well. Can you make a list of all the parts needed?
Its all listed in detail on page one. First post.

Only thing not listed is the little pieces I put in the hose to slow the flow of suction down. You could always just take a clamp, put it on the 3/8" hose BEFORE the PCV valve and tighten it gradually till you get the flow you want. You can loosen or tighten the clamp and try varying flow levels that way to fit your engines needs.

I think the flow needed will differ from engine to engine anyway, so the clamp on the hose would be the best method to adjust flow.


.
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Old 08-21-2009, 03:57 PM   #25
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So you have a filter on each valve cover, and on
the manifold...everything else cap'd?
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:31 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by LS6427 View Post
You can loosen or tighten the clamp and try varying flow levels that way to fit your engines needs.

I think the flow needed will differ from engine to engine anyway, so the clamp on the hose would be the best method to adjust flow.
Or you could plumb in a small needle valve if you wanted more control. It would probably make for a cleaner install as well.
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Old 08-21-2009, 04:38 PM   #27
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So you have a filter on each valve cover, and on
the manifold...everything else cap'd?
Shit, I got confusing. I tried a few different things so far.

What I am doing now is in the picture below.

Simply.....Breather on the drivers side valve cover. Breather at the port on my valley cover. And the PCV is sucking crankcase gases from the passenger valve cover port.
So.....my two fresh air intakes are the drivers valve cover and the valley cover port.



If you don't have a valley cover port, just hook the PCV up like mine on the passenger valve port to suck from....and just put one breather on the driver side valve cover. One way for air to get in and one way out.
But you MUST decrease the flow of the suction.

----With no valley cover port---If you put an oil fill cap breather on, you will only suck air in through that breather cap because the suction is only inches from it, and you won't suck any air in from all the way over by the drivers side valve cover. The crankcase won't get any air flow through it.---


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Old 08-21-2009, 04:39 PM   #28
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Or you could plumb in a small needle valve if you wanted more control. It would probably make for a cleaner install as well.
Ahhhh, that would be cool, and ver ycheap and easy to put inline.



.
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Old 09-03-2009, 04:42 PM   #29
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Well this is something I am going to have to try. I have a brand new Rev Extreme catch can on my brand new motor. Routed the system EXACTLY as Aaron (405HPZ06) showed me. Got the car tuned popped the TB tube off today and the floor of the intake has oil on it. The catch can is as dry as the sahara desert. I had the FAST intake apart and it was spotless clean when I reinstalled onto my LS2. I was gonna try and put a breather in the cap and eliminate one of the 2 possible oil entrances into the intake but thats probably a waste of time. This is very annoying in a high performance engine as oil in any form contaminates the intake charge and reduces octane.
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Old 09-03-2009, 06:20 PM   #30
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Well this is something I am going to have to try. I have a brand new Rev Extreme catch can on my brand new motor. Routed the system EXACTLY as Aaron (405HPZ06) showed me. Got the car tuned popped the TB tube off today and the floor of the intake has oil on it. The catch can is as dry as the sahara desert. I had the FAST intake apart and it was spotless clean when I reinstalled onto my LS2. I was gonna try and put a breather in the cap and eliminate one of the 2 possible oil entrances into the intake but thats probably a waste of time. This is very annoying in a high performance engine as oil in any form contaminates the intake charge and reduces octane.
Yeah, catch cans are a cool idea, but they don't work. Maybe for some I guess it does. You can't stop the fine mist of oil. It would take alot more mesh filters then one or two cans can provide, and then you'll be slowing down the suction anyway, and thats the key to it all. The suction is just ridiculous from that lower intake port.

The crankcase doesn't need to have such a high level of suction, 1/4 of the strength is all thats needed.

I've been a bit busy the last couple weeks, but I'm still going to completely close off both intake vaccum ports and hook up a small constant flowing air pump...to blow air into the crankcase and let it vent out of the two valve cover vent ports. I think.....this will allow the mist of oil that flys around in the crankcase to touch more of the inside of the engine, up through the oil passages leading to the springs and rockers, contacing them and flowing back into the bottom end with the oil flow.....and just that slight push of air will escape out both valve cover ports. ....Sucking from the valley cover port is a joke and directly sucks that very thick mist of oil thats floating around in the crankcase. Pushing air into the valley cover port is the better method. But the air flow has to be reduced down to just a small enough amount to move air through the engine.

When I drove around for 4 weeks with both intake vaccum ports completely capped off...zero oil entering my intake....everything got better about the engine. Richness, better gas mileage, smoother running, better cold start, and no more oil burning. Its a no brainer.

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Old 09-10-2009, 06:21 PM   #31
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So would your 2 fresh air intakes points result in unmonitored air entering the engine since your bypassing the MAF ? And I have two ports on my Passenger side valve cover. Front and back....which did you run you PVC line to ?
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Old 09-10-2009, 07:52 PM   #32
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So would your 2 fresh air intakes points result in unmonitored air entering the engine since your bypassing the MAF ? And I have two ports on my Passenger side valve cover. Front and back....which did you run you PVC line to ?
From what I gather...yes...its umetered air. But I have a totally different set up from a stock PCV set up.

I'm sucking fresh air in from the drivers side valve cover port and the valley cover port. The suction is pulling crankcase air in from being attached to the passengers side valve cover port. Then it attaches to the lower vacuum port on the intake. My top vacuum port on the TB is capped off, that thing is useless.

But...the suction my vacuum port produces has been cut down to about 1/4 strength. No need to suck more air in than that. I just want crankcase gases to be pulled out somewhat.

Works great for my engine.

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Old 09-10-2009, 08:09 PM   #33
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You guys know that there is a pcv valve to fix this, right? My pickup had the same problem until i installed the "orifaced" pcv which has no valve in it. 224K on my ticker and i burn about a qt. every 5k. Any GM dealer should have it.
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Old 09-11-2009, 08:39 PM   #34
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You guys know that there is a pcv valve to fix this, right? My pickup had the same problem until i installed the "orifaced" pcv which has no valve in it. 224K on my ticker and i burn about a qt. every 5k. Any GM dealer should have it.
I along with a lot others have tried this pcv and it makes no difference for most. Glade it worked for you though. You can get one from Autozone, pc339.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:09 PM   #35
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And you've got before and after oil analysis to say this is not affecting the oil?

I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99

My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:19 PM   #36
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And you've got before and after oil analysis to say this is not affecting the oil?

I think before I'd try what you've done I would go the path of the water/oil separator that cost $5.99

My ls1 engine has 115k miles on it. I change my oil every ~5k miles and during that time I add no oil between changes and I get no black soot on the bumper.
I have a fully built 427ci stroker engine. Stock engines should easily run 200,000 miles if taken care of. A 427ci is not expected to really run past 50,000-70,000 without starting to have issues.

I'm gonna double that......I'm doing something right.

And man-oman...nobody really reads threads anymore to understand them fully. The soot on my bumper is from running rich, which was a direct result of my PCV system letting massive amounts of oil in there. The soot build up HAS 100% STOPPED....((for the 100th time))). Because I fixed the PCV problem.


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Old 09-11-2009, 09:45 PM   #37
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The soot build up HAS 100% STOPPED....((for the 100th time))). .
I'll agree you probably did fix the soot issue, oil burning issue, running rich etc. You will probably never have ANY oil related issues from the PVC system on the engine BUT without scientific tests (such as oil analysis) there is no way to accurately say you are not causing a negative affect.
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Old 09-11-2009, 09:49 PM   #38
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I'll agree you probably did fix the soot issue, oil burning issue, running rich etc. You will probably never have ANY oil related issues from the PVC system on the engine BUT without scientific tests (such as oil analysis) there is no way to accurately say you are not causing a negative affect.
What kind of negative effects can possibly happen. Also, I'm going on 3 months with my PCV system having been modded.


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Old 09-11-2009, 09:59 PM   #39
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What kind of negative effects can possibly happen. Also, I'm going on 3 months with my PCV system having been modded.
.
Look, you're not an engineer and probably have no more background then a home tinkerer. This is one of those threads people read that they just go and do it cause it sounds great! Yeah, just like threads telling people to add acetone to their gas because the MPG will be so great or threads telling people to cut out the bottom of the air box to get a !FRA mod (oops forgot to mention you may hydro lock some day).

Oil analysis is a cheap and simple method to determine inner engine issues. How about you put down a few dollars to back your method instead of a redneck /the dipstick oil looks okay/ method especially when you make a comment like you're going to go sell your setup.
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Old 09-11-2009, 10:38 PM   #40
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For a high performance application this method seems pretty solid to me. Stock motor as LS6427 has stated multiple,many,dozens,hundreds of times is a different story..... I'm in this same boat making north of 575 crank HP with my LS2. I am tired of oil sitting in the intake of my new motor and my catch can being bone dry. I am capping the PCV of completely and installing a breather in each valvecover. Just about everyone I am friends with in the car circle that is running a high HP drag race V8 has no vaccume source on the crankcase. Until somebody comes with a better method it's getting vented to atmosphere.
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