I know there have been a lot of threads covering this but I'm still a little unclear.... I have my bbks ready to go on next week so I'm not sure I will even have this issue. Is it a very common problem with lt's? I'll be running extensions as they're cheaper and from the research I've gathered they have the same heater on them. If the codes are set will they affect the performance or driveability of the car? Will the o2's still fuction as normal. Idc about the ses light as my air and cats are going also I just wanna make sure the133 and 153 codes are harmless like the rears will be.
Dan-
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
2001 MRM firebird shorty headers, shaved lid, hotchkiss stb, 3.42 posi. SOLD
2002 z28 pewter,BBK LT's, ORY, MAC catback, TB bypass, bump stop mod, MTI lid,SLP air filter, P&P TB.
Ok I was planning on doing that anyway so if the front o2's throw those codes theyre still working correct? They're just taking longer to heat than normal?
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
2001 MRM firebird shorty headers, shaved lid, hotchkiss stb, 3.42 posi. SOLD
2002 z28 pewter,BBK LT's, ORY, MAC catback, TB bypass, bump stop mod, MTI lid,SLP air filter, P&P TB.
The longer wires shouldn't cause a problem if you have the right sensors. I just bought factory replacement sensors and spliced the wires and I haven't seen any codes from it. Just throwing heater codes (135, 155) will only make the car stay in closed loop longer, but once the sensor gets warm and starts reading correctly it'll run fine. If it throws any other kinds of sensor codes though, such as slow response or low voltage (133, 132, 131, 134, 151, 152, 153, 154), then the sensor isn't working right and it will adversely affect your engine performance.
Avoid extensions if possible and absolutely avoid splicing your cables. You are working with a signal that is in it's sweet spot at about a half of a volt. Every connection represents a potential voltage drop. It seems I never go more than a month without having to actually show a customer who insists it's just fine like that what is going on in the scanner VS. what SHOULD be going on. I have seen TONS of O2 extension fail in this last year as well and again, often times the owners are unaware.
Your best bet is a set of O2s that have long leads such as the Bosch 13111's. They also have a stronger heater than the OEM sensors.
Thanks frost. The o2's on the front are pretty new and I just dont have the $$$ right now for $160 worth of sensors. Just wondering if the extensions will get the job done? I was under the impression p0133 and p0153 are the common codes for the front o2's but I also see p0155 and p0135 can also come up. Am i wrong about the first 2are they all harmless or will the codes affect performance. Do all people experience the front o2 codes
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
2001 MRM firebird shorty headers, shaved lid, hotchkiss stb, 3.42 posi. SOLD
2002 z28 pewter,BBK LT's, ORY, MAC catback, TB bypass, bump stop mod, MTI lid,SLP air filter, P&P TB.
Just reread the responses and I just wanted to clarify, if the pcm throws a 133 or 153 code it doesnt have anything to do with the lt install but rather the sensor is bad for one reason or another. The 135 and 155 codes are a result of the headers becasue the gases hitting the o2 sensors is cool than it normally is?
__________________ 1966 Mustang long tubes, true duals, holley 350,detroit locker, all original otherwise. Grandpa left it to me
2001 MRM firebird shorty headers, shaved lid, hotchkiss stb, 3.42 posi. SOLD
2002 z28 pewter,BBK LT's, ORY, MAC catback, TB bypass, bump stop mod, MTI lid,SLP air filter, P&P TB.
P0133 and P0153 
