STREET99

iTrader: (3)

If anyone has a Menards or Home Depot by them, check out there to find it. I work at a Menards where we Sell it for $6.38 per Can.

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

i've put a full bottle in the gas tank and 1/2 a bottle in the engine oil, and have driven maybe a little over 100 miles, like around 125 - 150 or so (been raining the past few days, so i couldn't get out and change it, but will do so after getting off work this morning).....i may also go ahead and do the smoke show today after getting some other stuff done on the car that's more important first.

to anyone saying that it's a waste of $xx.xx because it didn't smoke much, just think of it this way: it's still waaaaaaayyyyy cheaper than taking it to a mechanic who will charge much more than the *total amount* you paid for the SeaFoam **per hour** to tear it down and clean it. it's life, get used to spending money on stuff that may or may not benefit you.

JohnFrazee02SS

iTrader: (23)

I have done the seafoam twice, the 2nd time i went out and did a bunch of smokey burnouts and now the car runs awesome. So I'm not sure how muchnit smoked because the tires did most of the smoking.

Second_Infinity

The SeaFoam can says not to use in the crankcase of older engines. I would stay away from the SeaFoam unless you fix the leak. It's for this same reason I haven't put it in the oil of my 220K Tacoma.

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

I checked at walmart-it costs $8.?? p/can. HD don't sell it.
I found at EBay (russopower) for $7 +shipping. I ordered 6 cans for $49 shipped..WOW cheaper.

That shop is http://www.russopower.com/rocco/spri...ing2009_76.pdf

Jeff Smith

iTrader: (44)

I stopped by O'Reilys last nite, I saw the SeaFoam trans. That Sea Foam Transmission new to me. Wonder, anyone LS auto has trouble w/ hard or late shifts. Will it work clean out that damn dirty gums out? Would be helpful? My Camaro with +201K miles, have trouble with hard and late shift in trans. .
I think about going change the trans filter/fluids same time when flush out.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

Question, is this safe to do to a car which is already backfiring pretty badly?

I've been chasing a backfire for about a month now. Got new plugs, wires, O2 sensors & filters. I'm going to try and clean the MAF next. The backfires are LOUD, and at night I can see the light coming from the bottom of the car when it happens (car has true duals dumped at the rear axle). Would it be smarter to wait until this is resolved to do the seafoam, or can I do it now? I ask because I dont want this to make the backfires any worse and cause any damage of any sort.

LSX Performance

I did the seafoam treatment all except using the deep creep. I didnt have too much smoke, only for about a block or so and no SES light came on. It did knock like mad the first mile or two, im pretty sure that normal though.

It hasnt seemed to cure my knock at 4K+ rpms though. I'll give it some more time since Ive only gone through about a quarter tank of the injector cleaner. But the car does run smoother no doubt.

matt_ss_205

i've got 1 question, do i need to change the oil before i do the brake booster step (after i've done the crankcase)? or does it matter, i'm just not wild about the idea of going out and beating on my car with dirty oil and filter

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

FOR THE MILLIONTH TIME.......STOP USING Sea Foam for the top end. Its dangerous. Its a friggin liquid. You could bend a rod or worse if you get too much LIQUID pooled in any one cylinder.

For about the same price, go to any Dodge/Chrysler dealership and get a REAL foam product that works 100 times better than Sea Foam ever can.

Jeezzzzz.



Don't have to mess with that pain in the *** brake booster line and risk cracking the port, they get old and dry-rotted over time. Plus, NEWS FLASH, the brake booster line doesn't get Sea Foam into every cylinder, only the back 3-4 cylinders. Proof fothat is: When you dump the remianing amont in to stall the engine, sometimes it doesn't stall it. Most of the time it sputters and kicks to stay on. WHY....becauzse its just flooding the back 3-4 cylinders and the others are still firing to keep the engine going. If ALL 8 cylinders were getting liquid in them, it would stall instantly the first time, every time. The MOPAR stuff, which is actually a FOAM, designed for top end cleaning, floods every cylinder and expands while its sitting in there. It contains alot of air in the foam so there's no chance of hydralocking any one cylinder. It will compress when you start it.

Use that clear hose. Keep it attached to the port on the intake, remove the end from the PCV valve and spray the entire can in there while you're engine is idling. That hose will suck every drop while you're spraying it in. Then have a friend turn the engine off the second you feel/see the can run out. The foam expands while its sitting in there and cleans every inch. Let it sit for 30 minutes and then go start it up, let it idle for about 3-5 minutes, then go drive it.

Below is how simple it is to spray the foam Mopar stuff in:

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Driving the car while your engine is knocking is slowly killing your engine. Find out why its knocking and fix it. Its not from dirt build up over the years inside the top end.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

ALSO.......

STOP putting it in the damn crankcase, thats hilarious.

When you do an oil change, drain out the old oil till just 3 quarts of the old oil remians in the pan. Add 2 bottles of any type of Engine Flush and let it idle for 5 minutes. DONE. Drain it all out and put the new **** in. I use GUNK brand every time I do an oil change. It will clean your engine better than Sea Foam ever will.

Sea Foam should ONLY be used for the GAS TANK. Every 3-4 months, an entire can to a half tank of gas....to keep the injectors clean.

Thats it.


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ruthusk8r

iTrader: (3)

great writeup. been debating this for a while. I had autozone credit so I went ahead. writeup was spot on. heres a vid. sorry camerawoman went MIA. changed the oil 20miles afterward too.

SEAFOAM+LS1+Camaro

Diffus

My 1992 Tercel, with 223,000 miles on it, failed the Texas emissions test.

The service manager at the shop where the testing was done wasn't very helpful, beyond telling me that the HC test indicates too much unburned gasoline. He had a whole bunch of you-might-try-this suggestions: change the plugs, change the O2 sensor, bring it in on a hot day after running it on the freeway, run some (unspecified) additives through the tank.

The guy at the auto parts store on the way home wasn't much more knowledgeable, but he did seem to think that running a can of Sea Foam through the tank and the intakes would help.

So I bought a can of Sea Foam, found this site and the original post, and set to work.

I put half in the gas tank and filled up. I poured most of the rest into the vacuum hose coming off of the PCV valve, with the car running, and trying to make sure the car didn't stall. I used a little bit to clean the throttle with a tooth brush.

Then I took the car on the highway and ran it about 30 miles at between 70 and 80 mph. The car sat idle for a week, as I didn't have a chance to drive it any more.

This morning, I changed the plugs, drove it another 30 miles or so at 70-80 mph, then took it to the inspection site.

High-speed hydrocarbon emissions were reduced from 171 to 104 (standard is 175); low-speed results went from 381 to 127 (standard is 182).

I'm good for another year! Thanks very much to the original poster.

tdonnelly

I've heard nothing but great things from everyone about Seafoam, so today I took the plunge and Seafoamed my '02 Pathfinder to knock out the crud build up. And in doing so I think I knocked out the crud that was holding the truck together. After driving modestly for a couple miles I had to jump into traffic and the truck didn't like that at all. Now if I don't ease onto the throttle the whole car starts to convulse and the tach goes nuts. What the heck did I do to my ride?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Who knows what it could have done. Sea Foam is a horrible thing to use to clean the top end. Its a LIQUID....that = bad to put into your engine.

WHY???? It can do an OK job of cleaning it out....or it can damage the engine, or in a worse case scenario, completely destroy an engine if too much liquid gets into any one cylinder, then you start it up.

Simple as that.

In your case you may be misfiring badly. Maybe a spark plug or an 02 sensor went out from the Sea Foam process, that has happened before to people too.

Scroll up to post #990 on this page....thats what you should have used. You're just another addition to a list of people who have had problems with Sea Foam in the top end.


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tdonnelly

Thanks for the response. Now it looks like I'm on to take a look at those items to seem what it could have affected.

97 hawk

quick question ima do the seafoam friday and i just cleaned my TB & MAS should i still do the Seafoam Deep Creep?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Spraying Deep Creep into the intake through the throttle body does NOTHING...except it gets that front runner really clean on the outside of it. It does absolutley nothing for the inside of the intake.

YOu really haven't been following this thread have you.

Just go to the top of this page and read it till you reach the Mopar stuff. Post #990.


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hotZ28cammed

Hey are their any negative effects form putting sea foam in your oil? Just wanted to get some input before I do it.