When the problem exist after the car warms up does it seem to operate normally? I wont be able to get on again till tomorrow evening so Ill give you a direction on what Im hinting at if it does. You could have a faulty ect sensor. Not bad or shorted in the sense to throw a code just a slightly goofed reading after a cold soak sitting all night etc. I have seen it a time or 2 on a few Fords and it causes close to the same problem you described Crappy idle and extended crank time I looked at them on the IDS and noticed that they were reading about 20-30 degrees colder than ambient temp. idled up real high and surged for a min but after they warmed up it would run fine had to wait till they cold soaked again for the symptoms to come back. Might not be exactly what yours is doing but hey its an idea and internet diag is a pain... good luck ill check back with you tomorrow.
When the problem exist after the car warms up does it seem to operate normally? I wont be able to get on again till tomorrow evening so Ill give you a direction on what Im hinting at if it does. You could have a faulty ect sensor. Not bad or shorted in the sense to throw a code just a slightly goofed reading after a cold soak sitting all night etc. I have seen it a time or 2 on a few Fords and it causes close to the same problem you described Crappy idle and extended crank time I looked at them on the IDS and noticed that they were reading about 20-30 degrees colder than ambient temp. idled up real high and surged for a min but after they warmed up it would run fine had to wait till they cold soaked again for the symptoms to come back. Might not be exactly what yours is doing but hey its an idea and internet diag is a pain... good luck ill check back with you tomorrow.
Well, it operates 'normal' when warm. Still idles high, but smooth. Does bad at stops and low speeds. Hesitation is bad. Under WOT, runs like a scalded cat. I googled the issue your talking about, and I couldn't find any instances in LS1 cars but it wasn't uncommon in imports and Fords... I still wouldn't put it past my car to be the issue. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a port of the passenger side head to put an ECT? IF so, I could use a cheap Sunoco gauge to see how much it varies. Now that I think about that, the coolant gauge in these things don't really 'work'... Hm. I like the approach you're taking though. Haha. Gonna check on the price of a new ECT, I think they are pretty cheap, just little single-wire temp sensor...
Not really sure on the LS if they are the same setup as the fords BUT on some of the fords there are 2 separate ect sensors, one sends a signal to the gauge and the other sensor sends a signal to the pcm to adjust fuel etc. make sure you get the one that sends the signal to the pcm IF it has that type setup.... not sure how common this setup is but worth it to make sure if it is. Kinda sounds like you may have a vacuum leak to based on the description wouldn't affect the codes but could cause the problems you describing, take a can of carb clean and while its running spray around the intake and on the vacuum lines an pay close attention to the idle if it comes up some or reacts when you hit a certain area then give it a closer look. might want to take a look at you iac to and see if it might be sticking or something clean it with a little carb clean and see if its kinda sticky or something. These are just some ideas for some stuff to check let me know if you find out anything with any of them and we can go from there.
Just looked at your diagram on the tp,map,egr. Those are not the only things using that circuitry, on the TP circuits you have 3 splices that go off to your abs system I' downloading the version off rapidshare to look at now but that might have something to do with your codes and problems disconnect your abs and see what you have going on could be the abs goofing with the 5v ref. might be causing all your problems... another idea let me know ill look at the other diagrams when they get downloaded.
O yeah if it turns out to be the abs module let me know i have a wrecked 2000 Z i been parting out module should be fine on it no problems b4 the wreck its just been sitting for a couple years.
Awesome, I am busy all weekend so I will have to get to it monday, but I will let you know if that's it. Just to be sure, I unplug it and see if it fires right?
Yep just unplug it and see if the problems still there theres a possibility that is is in the wires going to it off the splices but usually the module will be shorted internally. You'll get a abs light but your starting issue should be gone if you unplug it and its in the module.
So it is getting worse. Removing the ABS did nothing. The A/C compressor won't engage now, idle is anywhere from 500RPM to 1700RPM. Tries to idle at 500 though. It is now throwing a P0123 (TPS voltage high) and I'm getting a thin white smoke coming from exhaust. I cracked. I'm taking it to a mechanic tomorrow. If anyone else has any input, save me some serious $$$.
Damn thought for sure we about had it narrowed down wish there were more i could do to help your just a little to far away. Sounds like you have something pretty odd going on let us know what it ends up being.
OK. Now it idles kinda low. ALL codes are gone except for two new ones. P0740 and P0445?!?!? WTF?!!!!?!?!?!? Where is the EVAP canister on these things??
I know you said you already checked it out, but it sounds like a small vacuum leak to me, or it might be the oil off your k&N makeing it idle high. If you find out what the problem is let me know.
Could it be possible that when I had my fuel pump changed that, since then, the EVAP came loose and now has a large vacuum leak??? Where does it hook into the throttle body/intake? I was going to unhook it and see if I can place my finger over where it connects and see if that doesn't solve something. But my condition is intermittent. It will idle and run perfect sometimes, but most of the time it idles like junk but still runs great!! I noticed today when I pulled in, something is clicking like a beast. Something is shorted under the car. Ran out of time today though. This has exhausted me.
Doesn't sound like the evap has came loose and usually if you have a vacuum leak you would get codes indicating a lean condition and you dont have any. The short and long term fuel trims would be wigging out on you and pop a code. Your canister and evap canister and valve are in the rear by the tank tho black box with a few lines running to it. Take a look at your maf and see if the hot wires have anything on them you have to be very delicate with them if you find something and need to clean them thats the only thing that the oil off a K&N would cause you can get maf cleaner to use on them Ive used carb or brake clean with success in the past just as long as it evaporates really quick and you dont turn it on before its completely dry.
