I just had my cats removed and straight pipes put in. I had a set of sims installed also. Well, after I got home and left again, I get to my destination. I look at the dash and notice the service engine soon light is on. I get down and look underneath, and find that my passenger side simulator is missing. The car still runs good with no obvious difference than the SES light is on. Will it harm my PCM or anything to continue to drive it like this, and also can I just go without both sims and run good? In otherwords do I really need them or not? The SES light does not bother me otherwise...
what does the ohm load need to be to mock up my own sim??
I believe it's more complicated than just plugging in a resisitor. There's another circuit for the heater wires too. I've never heard of it being done, maby you could be a pioneer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris01SS
I just had my cats removed and straight pipes put in. I had a set of sims installed also. Well, after I got home and left again, I get to my destination. I look at the dash and notice the service engine soon light is on. I get down and look underneath, and find that my passenger side simulator is missing. The car still runs good with no obvious difference than the SES light is on. Will it harm my PCM or anything to continue to drive it like this, and also can I just go without both sims and run good? In otherwords do I really need them or not? The SES light does not bother me otherwise...
They are only there to stop the SES light, no affect on performance.
this maybe a silly question, but is there a product out there that looks like a cat but is just hidden straight pipe?
reason i ask is because on my 91Z28 i had a gutted cat, the exhaust smelled like it should. Now i own a 00 TA and it smells like rotten @ss, eggs. From what i take it this is normal. But how cool is it to be rockin this car and having it smell bad?
that smell usually means your cats are bad, just take them out and knock all the internal stuff out then put 'em back in, or weld a straight pipe in there if you don't have anything to worry about on the streets. Better yet get some high flow cats, the LS1 cars need a little bit of backpressure, I have no cats and kinda feel like I need them since the exhaust pops a lot.
I needed to pass an emissions test that consisted of a scanner and a visual insection. To pass the visual I gutted the cats and cut out the ends so that I could slide my 3inch off-road y-pipe through them. Then I welded around the ends so it looks like I have cats but in reality they are dummies. For the diagnoistic test I had o2 simulators.
__________________ coming this spring. 98 Trans Am a4, 383 stroker, zex 250 wet, 3.73 gear, many bolt ons
Wait a minute. Gotta question!!
Here's my story...I live in Mass. and need to get my car to pass inspection. I'm driving around with a rejection sticker for a problem which has since been fixed. Now, before I could get a valid sticker, I got a SES light for both cats (Codes P0420 and P0430) and was thinking about getting a set of LT headers with AIR and EGR, and a catted Y pipe with O2 sims, and a nice 3" catback. Now lemme get this straight....I have no problem getting whatever codes this throws tuned out and the visual inspection is NOT an issue for me (I know someone), but are you telling me I absolutely cannot pass an emissions test with this setup?????? Again, visual insp. is no prob...I know SES lights can be tuned out, but will I fail the sniffer test, which I assume means the emissions part of the state inspection???? (assuming sniffer test and emissions test are the same thing) Please, tell me it isn't so.....
If someone answers this question, I will be forever in their debt.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
The rear O2's simply say to the computer "Cats are working, don't set the SES light". In california, they are going to hook up the sniffer and check you, so you might still fail even if there is no light on. If you put in aftermarket cats, it might not prevent the SES light from coming even if the rear O2's are plugged in (might not read in the same range as the stock cats and set the code). For this reason, you ALWAYS need to buy O2 sims or have the codes tuned out.
If you run LT headers, you're not going to be legal in any state with emissions, much less california. A friendly station is about the only thing that's going pass you. I wouldn't have a problem swapping out my whole system once a year or once every two years, but I'm alot more comfortable wrenching than most people are. If I was in cali, I'd go balls out and just swap back to stock for emissions.
It is going to vary from state to state, I can't say what's best for you. Your best bet is going to be to check with your local boards or the regional section. Are you running LT headers?
When you crawl under the car, they should be close to the tailshaft on the tranny, or maby a little closer to the front on the driver side. The front O2 harness should already be plugged in, so this means you've only got 2 possible plugs under there that will plug into the simulators.
If your rear O2 sensors are screwed in and plugged in, you will have to unplug them from the harness, and plug the sims in their place.
2) Other o2 sensor- (bosch 13111vette rear o2s) These have a stronger heating element, and a longer wire harness, they can often solve front o2 insufficient switching errors, due to the higher wattage heater, also they eliminate the need for extensions, as the harness is long enough to reach the stock f body o2 connector
so the bosch 13111 o2 sensors would swap in as the front replacments for a LT/ORY set up?
or corvette rear (GM Part# 25317697 < i believe)
im deleting my rears & i want to swap out my fronts for new ones...
im hoping the bosch's are the correct ones to swap in....
can anyone shed some light on this for me???
also the bosch 13111 is only $53 per sensor & the OE is $190 list but can be gotten for 120 each...
total of 106 vs 240 for two sensors....
sorry to jus to jump in with another issue but i am running.stock headers .diff heads and cam jus put in exhaust stright pipe with front 02 sensors still in ,x pipe to 2 individual 5 and an half inch mufflers and out .back two 02 sensors are jus hanging .will this hurt my motor .i plan on getting 02 sims for it .seems to be running rich will the 02 sensors stop that ,smells like gas type of fuems . still runs good strong few sputters down low .any input would be appreciated
hi there i have a 200o trans am with long tube headers and high flo cats but stil have the o2 sensors and all air pipes .. with no muffler .. and im am gettin a egr insuficient flow code and low sensor circit code... i dont relaly want to use o2 sims since i payed extra for the leagel headers ... i live in ny so i need to not have a check engine light on... i purchased hp tuners program and its comin but i as wondering about the removin the codes thing u was talkin about... if i do that will my car fail a inspeciton?
since its the kind where they hook a computer up to my car...
i had someone tell me that my !AIR and !EGR might be the reason my car is getting such abnormally bad gas mileage??? should i consider what they're telling me or kick them in the nutz?
i had someone tell me that my !AIR and !EGR might be the reason my car is getting such abnormally bad gas mileage??? should i consider what they're telling me or kick them in the nutz?
i bought some energy sus mounts today and want to make sure they are the right ones. they are number 3.1116gc. if no ones knows that number i need to original part number and i can cross reference it on the energy sus site.
__________________ 99 SS M6 416 LS3 / TFS 215'S / FAST 90/90 / DANA 60 / NITROUS DAVES 90MM PLATE 527 RWHP/ 496 RWTQ 733 RWHP/ 783 RWTQ on the nitrous
9.91@141 N2O / 10.78@128 NA GMHTP feature car Nov. 09' www.fquick.com/ls2bait
Where I live "Guam", we have no emissions check what so ever. So having EGR and AIR deleted won't hurt me. I was thinking about purchasing some LT w/ a Y, but this is where I have a question. If I bought a Race LT, the only thing I would need is a Freeze Tube? And does removing EGR and AIR hurt my gas mileage? my car is a DD and gas now is not cheap. And do I really need front O2? I have heard that you don't need it if your not worried about emissions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Btw, my car is a 1998 Z28 Camaro.
I put a set of pacesetter LT's and a Pacesetter y-pipe on and I bought a extension harness for the front O2 sensors. I'm going to get the second pair of sensors tuned out. Now is it still ok to drive and I also have a lot of backfiring. The backfiring never happened before the install. Any ideas on what the backfiring is all about? I've got an 02 Z28.
with NY state inspection when you plug a 96 or newer car into the obd II vehicle inspection program it checks to see if your emissions systems monitors are passed, failed, or not ready. 1996-2000 you are allowed 2 monitors to be "not ready," and none to be failed. Now i have a 98 ws6, so with my ORY i know that i can tune out the cat codes, and that monitor will be "not ready." Thats one. Will tuning the air, and the egr out both give me no codes, but give me the 2nd, and 3rd "not ready," and cause me to fail inspection?
...but being reborn 
*****SOLD***** 
