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Generation III Internal Engine
1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Texas Speed & Performance

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Old 04-01-2009, 07:44 PM   #1
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Default Cam suggestions - A4 Only (No Stall) Daily Driver

Would like to get the best cam for the $$$ and make the most power while still being able to daily drive it. (A4 with a stock stall converter w/ 3.73's) It has a shift kit but I'm pretty sure that doesn't matter in this case.

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Old 04-01-2009, 07:45 PM   #2
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a TR220 or TR224 would be nice but it seems like you should probably do LT's and ported TB and lid first
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:13 PM   #3
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stock stall=stock cam
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Old 04-01-2009, 08:23 PM   #4
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I would do a medium sized stall before a cam. Add headers and LS6 intake and a good tune and you will be surprised how much stronger it runs.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:13 PM   #5
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Ran a stock stall and a 224 cam...picked up 8 tenths and 7mph. That's more than the average person gets with a small-medium stall and stock cam.

I added a 3500 later on and picked up another 5 tenths.

It drove the same before and after the stall.

Hope that helps
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:22 PM   #6
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If you are not going to do exhaust (headers etc..) your best bet is a Thunder Racing CheatR cam or even their Ole Man Cam maybe. They are designed as a cam only piece so they are hard to beat in that application.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:25 PM   #7
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best bang for buck with stock parts...id say look around in the classifieds for an 02 -04 ls6 cam and springs...i picked one up for my 5.3 for 160 shipped.....in an ls1 its normaly a 20+rwhp gain.....and you will be fine on the stock exhaust....however I like everyone else am gonna suggest doing all your bolt ons 1st it will net you more in the long haul......

good luck....
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Old 04-02-2009, 11:08 AM   #8
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We ran a TSP 220R camshaft in my wife's stock stall 35th with great results. It gained approx. 35rwhp & still drove pretty well with a near stock idle rpm & stock verter. Give me a call if we can help you with your purchase, we stock those things for just this application!!

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=174&catid=49

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=175&catid=49
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:54 PM   #9
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Sorry, I should have mentioned this in the original post.
Ya, it has a lid.
Shortly it will have longtubes + 3" Y and LS6 Intake
After all that, Then the cam would be my final mod for a while (besides for dyno tune)


So stall's don't effect driveability dubrado? (And anyone else)
I assume it would effect MPG's a ton right?

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Old 04-02-2009, 08:04 PM   #10
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If you went with a 3200 stall or so the car would still drive really good. Especially since you have 3.73s. That would open up your cam choices alot more too.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:09 PM   #11
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stalls should do next to nothing as far as mpg's go. it will be a lock up converter and will drive the same as your stock one at highway speeds. go with a nice 3600 stall speed. .02 as mikeg said, that would open up your choice for a cam if you want good power. you could go quite a bit bigger.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:17 PM   #12
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What would go good together?
I can just throw a stall in and not have to worry about the trans itself?
It shifts excellent at WFO. (After shit ass hypertech was removed)
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:27 PM   #13
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if your worried about the trans, then dont get a cam IMO. MOST cams require RPM, which seems to be the biggest killer of a stock trans. a stall doesnt really hurt a trans, but you will need a trans cooler. with a stall, you could have your pick of a lot of the bigger cams out there. pick your poison.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:36 PM   #14
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Cam,Stall, and Trans cooler if you want to do it right
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:17 PM   #15
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I've done a 224/228 .XXX/.XXX 11X on a stock stall custom grind to my specs, and it drove great. The car picked up 60 rwhp with it and the tune.
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:41 PM   #16
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I've done a 224/228 .XXX/.XXX 11X on a stock stall custom grind to my specs, and it drove great. The car picked up 60 rwhp with it and the tune.
x2. Doing it now.
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Old 04-03-2009, 12:54 AM   #17
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I know most think this is a Baby Cam but the Comp Cam 212/218....525/530...114 lsa
will run on the stock tune and provides excellent Low-Mid range power and torque.
It drives good and you save $300-$500 on a tune. My 216/220 cam effected my MPG. A higher stall will effect your City driving but not the HWY too much. The cam will effect your MPG more than a converter. For a daily driver, I wish I had gotten the 212/218.
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:02 AM   #18
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Everyone always has a different oppinion when it comes to this. My buddies 2001 formula has a Futral F14 high lift cam in it with trick flow 215cnc heads and he is still running the stock stall converter.. It does tend to want to stall at idle but the car is a monster on the street. His car leaves so damn hard on the street due to the stock stall I play hell trying to stay on side of him.. Now at the track it's a totaly different story!!
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:11 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '91firebirdformula View Post
if your worried about the trans, then dont get a cam IMO. MOST cams require RPM, which seems to be the biggest killer of a stock trans. a stall doesnt really hurt a trans, but you will need a trans cooler. with a stall, you could have your pick of a lot of the bigger cams out there. pick your poison.
This isn't true!! First off RPM doesn't affect the tranny as much as more torqe and higher fluid temps due to the stall and cam. Due to the stall slipping more than the stock stall it will have the tendency to heat the transmissions fluids up more (heat kills these transmissions). If you put a stall converter in your car (even on a stock motor car) and want your tranny to survive for any period of time I would recommend also installing a B&M tranny cooler and the Trans go Shift kit in the tranny.. Good luck..
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:22 AM   #20
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224/228 .609/.588 113+4 LSA
custom, 0 * overlap, peak 6100 rpm
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