Thanks for all the help everyone. It sounds like I am not having a o-ring issue since I am not having any issues with oil pressure. Must just have another noisy LS engine.
Yes, they are Katech pinned billet caps. I'm building this for a future procharger so I'm trying to do it right the first time. To those who are looking for the oil pump brace, I got mine off of ebay from BRP. John I talked to you today about my SLP windgae tray spacers and look that's your IRL timing set.
Last edited by Monte4ever; 10-01-2009 at 02:03 AM..
sorry i have just joined up but at the dealer where i work that noise that you are discribing sounds like piston to wall clearance issues. changed pistons in 15 lq4's the problem is it sounds like lifter noise. no boring required the new pistons come teflon coated and the nosie stops till you are out of warranty the technical field rep says that the noise will not hurt anything it is just done to please customer. (notice these were from 99 to 04,05) aslo the o ring problems for us were over 100k miles only never with a low milage motor, hope some thing helps
I had valvetrain noise after my head and cam install back when people didnt know that a torn o ring would cause noise the only reason I found it to be my issue because there was a piece of the o ring in my filter when I changed the oil but my oil pressure was great 50 at hot idle and about 75 at wot.
Interesting. When you replaced the o-ring did the noise completely disapear? Did it come and go before the repalcement? Your the first guy so far that has had good oil pressure.
2003 suburban 275k miles 10 to 15 pounds of oil pressure (and rattle at idle) changed oring (hard as a brick) 40 psi at idle on the road again no noise. 7 years turning wrenches only have seen 1 oil pump changed in the dealership.as soon as i dig in my file cabinet i will find the gm part # for the teflon piston.
Maybe I should take it apart this winter to check and replace it with the newer style o-ring and the girdle? Still never really heard anyone say that is what mine is doing.
Got some new info. I just recently changed the oil with some 15w40 and the noise is gone during cold starts. It does still come and go when warmed up. I also noticed that when it starts doing it I can rev it up to 3500 to 4000 RPM and it goes away for a short period of time. Any ideas??
Got some new info. I just recently changed the oil with some 15w40 and the noise is gone during cold starts. It does still come and go when warmed up. I also noticed that when it starts doing it I can rev it up to 3500 to 4000 RPM and it goes away for a short period of time. Any ideas??
Forged pistons require extra cold clearance and generally slap like a mother until they're warm. It's a tradeoff for the extra durability.
Buy a cheap mechanic's stethoscope and see if the noise is under the valve covers, or down in the block. Easy to probe around and see where the noise is loudest.
You might like Mobil-1 "High Mileage" 10W-40 if you prefer synthetic oil.
It does seem to be valve train noise. Seems like #7 cylinder. I don't think I am hearing piston slap. I know I read somewhere that if you have o-ring issue that #7 is most likely where you would here it. It still seems that I should have low oil pressure based on what others are saying.
Just assembled my 05/LQ4.[Hummer]. All stock lower end and stock pan, etc.
Went to the dlr, and got the o'ring pt# 12557752. [Blue ring we used on the 01 Vette].
I compared it to the red ring that I removed from the LQ4. NOT even close to the same size.
The parts man looked up the CORRECT # for the LQ.. It shows as being 12584922. [It matched, and is red].
Also, the BRP girdle will not work on the particular tube that's in this engine. They said they'd never seen such an assy.
My suggestion: Have the ring spec'd according to the yr, model, etc, of the engine U R working with.
John, [SD].. Can you shed some more light on the "size matters" subject??
__________________ Chuck
Injector inspector
Into cars since '54
Turbo Buickz. 9's at 141...
55 Chevy/LQ9
Well, the oil pump I bought when I built mine (GM pump from Scroggin Dickey) cam with a blue seal so I used it, now I see I shouldn't have. My 2002 LQ4 needs the red version.
* Oil Pick-Up Tube O-Ring ea.
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (1999-2000 LS V8 engines with 2nd design pick-up tube)
* Trailblazer (2003-2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Hummer H2 (2003-2008)
* Hummer H3 (2008 With LS V8 engine)
* Chevy/GMC Pick-Up (2001-2008 LS V8 engines)
* W- Body (2006-2008 With LS V8 engine - Impala, Lacrosse, Grand Prix)
* Thickness = 4.20mm (0.165")
ID = 20.69mm (0.815")
__________________ 1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 7.55@97.93 1/8 1.70 60 ft. and 11.70@116 1.76 60 ft. 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.8:1, L76 intake, 90mm Holley TB, 85mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, custom Comp cam (222/238 duration, 581/605 lift, 114+4) Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L60e with all of the good parts inside, TCI 3500 Super Street Fighter TC, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me
I am using the fbody oil pan and pickup tube. I used the black o-ring that came with the oil pump. It was a gm ls6 oil pump. What is the black one supposed to be used for? If I remember correctly it looked a little small compared to the blue one I just picked up.
interesting thread, so i guess i use the blue one for my 99 camaro? im also gonna buy that girdle thing that goes on the pick up tube.
__________________
'99 Camaro Z28 M6 THE BLACK T-TOP IS HERE <Ara> suspension mods-,BMR STB, 1LE bars,bmr PHB,rear bmr control arms,UMI SFC,Derale power steering cooler. manual fan switch mod,vogtland springs,tokico shocks=fruity under carriage,10 spokes,160 t stat,poly motor mounts,slight tune, stainless steel brake lines
02 honda 400ex: this is the money pit ( has alot of mods now tho)
04 YFZ450 fast!!!!
I have some odd noises that i thought might be related to the oring but i have 45 psi hot idle and 70+ cruising. My noise starts about 30 seconds after you start it and is there until you get it GOOD and hot. I mean it clicks and klacks so bad its insane, i think its piston noise, maybe wrist pins.