__________________ 1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 7.55@97.93 1/8 1.70 60 ft. and 11.70@116 1.76 60 ft. 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.8:1, L76 intake, 90mm Holley TB, 85mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, custom Comp cam (222/238 duration, 581/605 lift, 114+4) Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L60e with all of the good parts inside, TCI 3500 Super Street Fighter TC, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me
__________________ 1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 7.55@97.93 1/8 1.70 60 ft. and 11.70@116 1.76 60 ft. 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.8:1, L76 intake, 90mm Holley TB, 85mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, custom Comp cam (222/238 duration, 581/605 lift, 114+4) Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L60e with all of the good parts inside, TCI 3500 Super Street Fighter TC, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me
I appreciate you pointing out some of this info.
I just want to make sure I have the "bottom line" correct here...it isn't like I've never had bad information before .
So you are telling me that...GM bolts are better for a 200,000 mile motor than the ARP (or any reusable) head bolt is. Correct?????
The point that I am trying to make is that GM builds cars and trucks with the LS series engine in them and they build tham to last for 200,000 + miles if maintained properly. They are not building the car or truck with the thought that the owner is going to be pulling the heads every so often. 99.9 % of their vehicles do not have the heads off and on. The performance enthusist is a very small percentage of their market. They are trying to build a good product in a very "COST EFFECTIVE" manner. The TTY fasteners that were designed for the LS series engines do what they were designed for very effectively. There is no hype to it. It is just good product design. The cost of the GM head bolts is minimal to say the least. You will have to change heads numerous times to off set the cost of a set of ARP head bolts. The ARP fasteners do a very good job too and are reuseable as a added bonus. It just depends on your particular situation as to which fastener is best for your application. The stock head bolts are a very good fastener to say the least and they are not expensive to replace. End of story. Good luck with your mods...
__________________ Y2K NBM 6 MT Z28 CP
DYNO TUNED BY RON & MIKE @ GMMG
THEY ARE NOW VENGEANCE RACING & DEVELOPMENT
HP/TQ ? IT'S STOCK THEY ALL SOUND LIKE THAT
POWER TOUR 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, & 09 ... YEAH I'M GOING IN 2010 TOO
A friend of mine who is an A mechanic for a Chevy dealer told me the block itself is only suppossed to have head bolts installed in it a limited number of times. Now I have no other confirmation on this and I post it in hopes somebody can confirm or deny this. This would be another good reason for studs as the threads in the block do not see the turning forces and simply act as an immobilized anchor.
__________________ , Factory LS2 (364) crank, rods, pistons, N/A , A.S. 5.3 heads, LG G5X4 camshaft, FAST 90/90, Performabuilt level 3 4L60E, ARH 1 7/8's, Circle D 230mm converter, full lineup of Spohn hardware out back -- P.B.= 9.87@134.8 - 60'= 1.30 10/19/09
Speed Density Tuned by Kaltech tuning on Long Island www.kaltechtuning.com
Did this with a GM head and pump gas!
If you are building a NA car or light on the nitrous, GM bolts are fine. If you are racing, putting a big shot or blowing on it with a lot of boost, ARP is probably a better choice.
I get the GM head bolts for $36.00 for both heads, ARP bolts are $143, studs over $220. You better be racing or pulling the heads off a lot to cover the cost for no added benefit.
If look at ARP's instructions on bolt stretch it is not a lot different than torque to yield. You are stretching a bolt to a predetermined length to provide a specific clamping force. The GM TTY system is doing the same thing but the bolts are not reusable per their specifications. Their fastener engineers determined that if a specific bolt is tight x amount of degrees of a specific sequence a predetermined clamping force will be applied. If the LS7, stock and modified, can stay together with the GM fasteners I am sure 90% of the engines on here will be just fine.
I have not checked the LS9 to see what they are using but it would be nice to know.
__________________ 1969 Firebird: 11.67@114 7.55@97.93 1/8 1.70 60 ft. and 11.70@116 1.76 60 ft. 6.0 LQ4, L92 heads milled 10.8:1, L76 intake, 90mm Holley TB, 85mm MAF, FIC Custom injectors, custom Comp cam (222/238 duration, 581/605 lift, 114+4) Hooker LT, PYPES dual exhaust with an X pipe, 4L60e with all of the good parts inside, TCI 3500 Super Street Fighter TC, 12 bolt with 3.73 gears. HP Tuner tuned by me
ARP bolts here and 3 heads lifts on the count...Go ARP! But GM are fine if you dont plan to lift heads at all..
__________________ 1998 SS juiced H/C/I
Originally Posted by sprapsu
How do I activate the turbo in my car? Is there a turbo boost button I need to press? I tried locating the turbo boost button but can't seem to find it anywhere.
Can anybody in here help??
Well I have had 3 sets of heads on this block and they all sealed up perfect.
__________________ Y2K NBM 6 MT Z28 CP
DYNO TUNED BY RON & MIKE @ GMMG
THEY ARE NOW VENGEANCE RACING & DEVELOPMENT
HP/TQ ? IT'S STOCK THEY ALL SOUND LIKE THAT
POWER TOUR 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, & 09 ... YEAH I'M GOING IN 2010 TOO