Im going to do a cam swap soon, right now looking at the TR224 which is 224/224 .563/.563 but im not sure of what LSA. Right now I have edlebrock LT and ORY, K&N CAI, LS6 intake, Jasper TB, and Hooker Catback. when i do the swap ill be swapping in stock 243 heads of of 02 Z06
so basically i need the best drivability possible but still have the most power possible. most tell me that the 114 LSA would give me best drivability and more low and mid range power, but if the 112 is not much worse and could give me more power it be great. ALSO, nobody has acknowledged whether or not ill be able to be at least 20mpg highway with this set up. this is important since i have to drive 50 miles highway everyday and im a measly student...
Im going to do a cam swap soon, right now looking at the TR224 which is 224/224 .563/.563 but im not sure of what LSA. Right now I have edlebrock LT and ORY, K&N CAI, LS6 intake, Jasper TB, and Hooker Catback. when i do the swap ill be swapping in stock 243 heads of of 02 Z06
so basically i need the best drivability possible but still have the most power possible. most tell me that the 114 LSA would give me best drivability and more low and mid range power, but if the 112 is not much worse and could give me more power it be great. ALSO, nobody has acknowledged whether or not ill be able to be at least 20mpg highway with this set up. this is important since i have to drive 50 miles highway everyday and im a measly student...
my old roomate dd a 99 frc with a 224 on a 114. the gas milage is doable on the freeway, but its also easy not to get 20 mpg also. If your commuting on it go with the 114 lsa.
__________________ THE DEVILS GREATEST TRICK WAS CONVINCING THE WORLD HE DOESNT EXIST.....JT 01 nbm z28 m6- UMI lca's w/relocation brackets, UMI panhard bar, pro 5.0 w/lss, kooks long tubes, TSP true duals, mti lid, asp pulley, t-stat, msd wires. 352 RWHP/ 372 RWTQ-TUNE BY NEWTECH. 06 ducati red 749 superbike. JT
reppin PHK
unless your tune is off or you have a big stall converter (didnt say if you were a4 or m6) you should have no problem maintain your stock mpg. many people with bigger cams keep stock mpg or get better depending on the tune (lean out for low load conditions). from my understanding, the 112 will bring power in earlier and give you a little choppier idle than the 114.
__________________ MTI carbon fiber lid / MSD wires / NGK plugs / LPP headers and y / magnaflow cat-back / jr racing tune / 343.55 rwhp and 362.11 rwtq / 33k miles and counting
waiting for install: koni 4/3 shocks / strano springs / bmr panhard bar / umi lca relocation brackets / ccw sp500 18x10's 18x11's / vengeance fast 92mm ported to 96mm
near future: custom Ed Curtis cam / AI 243 cnc'd heads
although the Hotcam is on a 112, that cam has very little valve overlap at .050 lift, its not as aggressive of a cam as it would seem.
personally, i like a cam with a tighter LSA. in my experience it seems that with a tighter LSA you won't lose any gas milage on the highway compared to a cam with more LSA, but you may lose some milage with city driving.
__________________ 2000 Trans Am WS6 - Patriot / CamMotion / Nitrous Express
2003 Silverado - ECSB
thats also my opinion, I had the Hotcam and loved it! But I got the heads and it had to go for one that was a little better suited to take advantage of them. I regret it and I should of just gotten the vindicator!
Goodluck!
__________________ 01 Ws6, m6, ASC#618 of 1583, 40k Miles, Slp lid, 85mm Maf, Ported FAST 90, UMI 90mm TB, Lucas 38lb inj's, Trick Flow 220cc heads milled to 60cc's, 7.5 Comp Pr's, VRX5 cam, Ls7 lifters, H.S. 1.7 rockers, Ls2 TC, Melling HO OP, PB 25% UDP, Pace Lt's, Pace Y, UMI K-member, UMI T/A relocator, UMI SFC's, UMI LCA's, UMI adj. PHB, SLP T/A, Koni 4th Gen's, Eibach prokit, MagnaFlow CB, Tuned @ StraightLine 457 HP and 405 Ft Lbs
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I made 377whp on a Dynojet, w/ LT's, ORY, Corsa, lid and a crappy tune through a 10-bolt w/ 3.73's.
Driveability is "ok", but that's a function of the crap tune. The TR224 will make more power and drive the same if not better. I chose the Hotcam at the time due to budget, otherwise I would have picked something different.
I get 25mpg+ on my tsp 228r on 112 also. It comes down to basically do you care about the sound or not, the difference is so small from what most people say. lol
i have a 224 on 114+4 and i *can* get mid-20MPG on the hwy but honestly I get worse than that as i beat the living snot out of the car any time its driven. I guess thats why its not my DD. Hell my wife took the Z to work today and I heard her 2 blocks away at 715am lol. She enjoys it a lot too.
Next time I'll get a 112 cam for the awesome idle sounds lol
__________________ 1976 Datsun 280Z
LS1-T56
224/224 .567"/.567" on 114, FAST 90mm intake, FAST 90mm TB, headers 11.77@ 119.97
363rwhp and 353ft/lb
If you look at the recent dyno testing by TSP where they tested several cams of different LSA values, the difference between the power of a 112 and 114 of the same cam is negligable. Go for the best street manners, which is the 114.
__________________ 02 Mag Red Vette Convertible
Callaway Honker CAI, ATI Balancer, Cloyes IRL chain, GMPP dampener, AFR 205's, AFR 6016 cam, YT Rockers, QTP Headers, Morel lifters, Textralia X-Grip & DTE Stage IV 3.90's.
yeah thats what ive been thinking since im told that the number which affects power the most on a cam is the duration, followed by lift. Drivability is basically affected by overlap, which is a combination of duration and the lsa i believe. am i on the right track?
If you look at the recent dyno testing by TSP where they tested several cams of different LSA values, the difference between the power of a 112 and 114 of the same cam is negligable. Go for the best street manners, which is the 114.
Do you know of a link to (or where I can find) the results of this test TSP performed? I'm very curious about which LSA to choose as well. I'm even considering an LSA of 116 if it will idle like stock. But before I decide, I'd really like to know the actual HP and TRQ differences between the LSA's. Thanks alot, man.
Hopefully the O.P. can use this information as well and this won't be considered a hijack. <=-)
224/228 at least since you`re manual on 114 or 113 .... why use 224/224 and limit high rpm pull
if you were auto then ok shifting at 5800-6100 but you can go 6300-6400 rpm with the split cam ... also I would recommend the 58x lift one not the low lift lobes .... I wasn`t happy with my 224/224 56x 56x 114 cam when I was auto .... the good thing was the pull away from roll racing at the lower rpm then it goes away ^_^
I have a similar setup to you. Full exhaust, bolt ons but Im a 3600 stalled A4.
I have a TR224/224 .568/.568 112LSA
Yesterday I calculated my city driving, I got 14.9 MPG. And this INCLUDED 6 passes at the drags last weekend. I can't complain about that, a cammed, 3600 stalled A4. I'm sure I'll get 20 or damn near on the highway. Hell, I'm curious to see what I get without racing it.
Here is a vid for you to hear what it sounds like.
112 lsa vs 114 lsa 
01 Ws6, m6, ASC#618 of 1583, 40k Miles, Slp lid, 85mm Maf, Ported FAST 90, UMI 90mm TB, Lucas 38lb inj's, Trick Flow 220cc heads milled to 60cc's, 7.5 Comp Pr's, VRX5 cam, Ls7 lifters, H.S. 1.7 rockers, Ls2 TC, Melling HO OP, PB 25% UDP, Pace Lt's, Pace Y, UMI K-member, UMI T/A relocator, UMI SFC's, UMI LCA's, UMI adj. PHB, SLP T/A, Koni 4th Gen's, Eibach prokit, MagnaFlow CB, Tuned @ StraightLine 457 HP and 405 Ft Lbs
