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View Poll Results: which cam would be best with my setup.
ms3 14 34.15%
torquer v.2 14 34.15%
texas speed 233/239 6 14.63%
tick perf polluter 7 17.07%
Voters: 41. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 11-03-2009, 02:41 AM   #21
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I voted tv.2 because you said your going to be street driving but my question is why not the TV3 or MS4 as they are the newer supposed to be better versions of the same design?

I've seen people make similar numbers with smaller cams like a 228 when compared to big cams like the MS3, both a little over 400rwhp on a M6. for a driver I think the biggest cam I would go with is something like 230/235, pretty much like the torquer cams because they still make the power low enough and dont lose alot of torque.

Also consider the LSA the lower lsa's like a 110 will give you a real choppy idle and move the powerband down a little and a lsa like 114 or 115 will smooth out the idle but move the power up into the powerband.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MelScrilla View Post
I voted tv.2 because you said your going to be street driving but my question is why not the TV3 or MS4 as they are the newer supposed to be better versions of the same design?

I've seen people make similar numbers with smaller cams like a 228 when compared to big cams like the MS3, both a little over 400rwhp on a M6. for a driver I think the biggest cam I would go with is something like 230/235, pretty much like the torquer cams because they still make the power low enough and dont lose alot of torque.

Also consider the LSA the lower lsa's like a 110 will give you a real choppy idle and move the powerband down a little and a lsa like 114 or 115 will smooth out the idle but move the power up into the powerband.
I think you might have it backwards. I believe the lower lsa moves the power band higher in the rpm's and the higher lsa moves it lower in th rpm's. I also think the higher lsa will give you a higher cranking compression as well since the valves dont overlap as much. Usually when you build a high compression motor and want to run on pump gas you can run a lower lsa to help reduce detonation problems. Feel free to correct me as I could be wrong but I believe this is correct info.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:46 AM   #23
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I chose not to select the ms4 because I dont want ptv clearance issues. I just want a simple swap other than changing valve springs, oil pump, pushrods, intake, but not looking to fly cut my pistons for a dd.
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waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:34 AM   #24
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Look at the old TSP 231/237 .598/.595 112LSA

Ran this on a 75RWHP shot.



All it had was supporting bolt ons, 3.73's, 3600stall, 85MAF, etc. Full weight street car. Ran low 7.4x's all motor and 6.9x's on a 75 shot. Made great power in the 6200-6400 range.

Other than that the 233/239 gets my vote if your not gonna go custom, and if you want GREAT streetability
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:37 AM   #25
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I voted polluter because for the money that cam has proven itself time and time again and with a good tune it can be perfect for power and daily driving.
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:59 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1kbush View Post
I think you might have it backwards. I believe the lower lsa moves the power band higher in the rpm's and the higher lsa moves it lower in th rpm's. I also think the higher lsa will give you a higher cranking compression as well since the valves dont overlap as much. Usually when you build a high compression motor and want to run on pump gas you can run a lower lsa to help reduce detonation problems. Feel free to correct me as I could be wrong but I believe this is correct info.
Mel had it right, the tighter, or lower the LSA the lower the powerband will be. For a street car you would want less overlap, as that is what causes ruff idle, surging and general pain in the ass-ness to drive. A 112-114 LSA is ideal for a street car BUT depending on your access to a good tuner, you could run a 110 LSA like me and DD the car

Further more dont be so concerned about dyno numbers. HP and TQ on paper don't mean sh!t. I have a custom cam by Pat G and its not a huge cam by any means. Sure it only made 385hp and 360tq but im walking all over other H/C/I LS1 f-bodies with bigger cams making over 400hp at the tire. That piece of paper didn't help them and it won't help you either. It's all about power under the curve.
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:47 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '02TA View Post
Mel had it right, the tighter, or lower the LSA the lower the powerband will be. For a street car you would want less overlap, as that is what causes ruff idle, surging and general pain in the ass-ness to drive. A 112-114 LSA is ideal for a street car BUT depending on your access to a good tuner, you could run a 110 LSA like me and DD the car

Further more dont be so concerned about dyno numbers. HP and TQ on paper don't mean sh!t. I have a custom cam by Pat G and its not a huge cam by any means. Sure it only made 385hp and 360tq but im walking all over other H/C/I LS1 f-bodies with bigger cams making over 400hp at the tire. That piece of paper didn't help them and it won't help you either. It's all about power under the curve.
I for some reason was thinking wrong in my head. Ive never messed much with lsa and for some reason I was thinking of duration. Thanks for correcting my statement.
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waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:52 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1kbush View Post
I for some reason was thinking wrong in my head. Ive never messed much with lsa and for some reason I was thinking of duration. Thanks for correcting my statement.
No prob dude, is your car standard or auto btw?
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:57 AM   #29
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Does changing to a lower lsa also help reach your max hp and torque at a lower rpm? Like if you got a cam thats rated from 1900 to 6500 with a 113 lsa and you change it to a 112 lsa would that move the cam to 1800 to 6400 or would it still be the same and just hit peak sooner.
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13.55@105 2.02 60 ft current mods ported BBK 80mm TB,SLP catback,4.10 gear,jegster torque arm,street tires.
waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:06 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1kbush View Post
I think you might have it backwards. I believe the lower lsa moves the power band higher in the rpm's and the higher lsa moves it lower in th rpm's. I also think the higher lsa will give you a higher cranking compression as well since the valves dont overlap as much. Usually when you build a high compression motor and want to run on pump gas you can run a lower lsa to help reduce detonation problems. Feel free to correct me as I could be wrong but I believe this is correct info.
You have it backwards, the lower the lsa the quicker the cam will peak. It also will make more tq and less vaccum. I voted v2 btw, tq is what you want on a street car imo...
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:10 PM   #31
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It would make more power lower in the rpm range, where it is usable on the streets.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:24 PM   #32
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My car is a m6 thought I had it in my sig but I will fix that.
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98 camaro z28 M6
13.55@105 2.02 60 ft current mods ported BBK 80mm TB,SLP catback,4.10 gear,jegster torque arm,street tires.
waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:32 PM   #33
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Sounds like the cam to use would most likely be the torquer v.2 since it does have a broad powerband and usefull torque and most likely go with a 112 lsa but then I also think it would be cool to have it on the 114 just so people dont think anything is done to it but I love the sound of a hard hitting cam.
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98 camaro z28 M6
13.55@105 2.02 60 ft current mods ported BBK 80mm TB,SLP catback,4.10 gear,jegster torque arm,street tires.
waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:39 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1kbush View Post
Sounds like the cam to use would most likely be the torquer v.2 since it does have a broad powerband and usefull torque and most likely go with a 112 lsa but then I also think it would be cool to have it on the 114 just so people dont think anything is done to it but I love the sound of a hard hitting cam.
My buddy has the V2 in his car with dart heads and texas speed true duals, Sounds nasty!!!! He's getting a cam like mine now though...
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:46 PM   #35
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My buddy has the V2 in his car with dart heads and texas speed true duals, Sounds nasty!!!! He's getting a cam like mine now though...
What cam do you have in yours and I would guess you like it since your friend is getting the same. Maybe I could get that v2 off of him to help fund his new cam.
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13.55@105 2.02 60 ft current mods ported BBK 80mm TB,SLP catback,4.10 gear,jegster torque arm,street tires.
waiting to be installed=Hooker LT & ORY,and weiand intake.
Still need drag radials and tune.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:05 PM   #36
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He liked his V2 but hes building an L92 now so he's getting a custom grind from Pat G like I did. Mine is a 23x/23x .61x/.60x 110+4 LSA. Sorry for the "X"s but I don't know how Pat feels about his cam specs floating around the forum. If I were you I would PM him and have him spec you a cam for your car specifically; your goals, purpose, mods, future mods, and idle quality. It only cost $25 more for the custom cam then a regular shelf comp cam.
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Old 11-04-2009, 01:32 PM   #37
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I asked him if he still has the cam. Ill let u know
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:31 PM   #38
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Anyway, you should go with TV3 since youre putting stronger springs in..
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:08 PM   #39
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I plan on running the PRC .660 springs no matter what cam I go with but if I can get a deal on the .675 I would go with those.
FYI, The .650 Golds are of better quality than the .660 platinums.
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:35 PM   #40
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I like the G5x2 which is similar to the 233/239. Shift points are around 6,300 on the A4. x2 is a 232/240 112+4. Love it, does really well with the SS3600 I have.
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