i did a search everyday for the last week or so on everything i could possibly think of, listened to cams, looked at dyno charts, watched dyno videos, read till my eyes hurt and tried to take in all the information but sometimes it just doesn't soak in i guess
I know i am going to get 50/50 on responses so i will try to be very specific on what i want/need. I do not want a "donkey dick" cam that is all about numbers and will force me above 6500 RPM, I do not want a baby cam where when i do heads in a year or when ever i have the money to where i will need to buy a new cam and do the job twice. i believe in the philosophy of measure twice, cut once. I plan on staying 100% stock internals, the only reason i will loosen the bolts on my oil pan will be to do a timing chain/oil pump. my car is a 01 WS6, 70k miles(i am very sad about this as it became my dd and ive put a ton of miles on it, just broke 70k last night) My car is full bolt ons, 1 3/4 Hooker Lts, Hooker ORY, Hooker CB, 85mm BBK TB, Whisper Lid, 160 t stat, LS7 Clutch/FW, Drill mod, Rebuilt t56, BMR Lca's, BMR PHB, and the car is a M6. The LCA's/PHB will be going on at the same time as i do the cam.
I want a cam that will perform well and break 400 rwhp with the stock heads, but also excel with aftermarket heads when the time comes.
I am currently Looking at the polluter Deluxe cam kit, reason being for $869 i will get everything i need to do the cam install timing chain, oil pump, etc. and the cam is designed for what im looking at, Sub 6500 RPM, stock internals, stock heads, and will excel if i decide to do heads/internals w/ spray in the future.
maybe some of the Cam gurus can chime in and let me know if i can get a better bang for my buck or if i am looking in the right direction cause i do not want to make a poor decision and regret it later, for $869 it is right in my price range at the moment. Thank you for the help
I also messaged Pat G but have not heard back yet
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Last edited by DarkJuggalo; 11-04-2009 at 11:51 AM..
If I was you and planned on doing heads in the future, I would keep the lift # respectable. Reason being, when you install heads, I would recomend having/buying them milled to bring the compression up. Then will make the car less "soggy" down low and really help the torque output of the motor.
I would look at using X size CC, X size headgasket, so I need to keep the lifts under .XXX for it to clear the pistons. While this is all ballpark guessing basically, it will still help you out down the road.
Example, my car has 62cc heads and an .045 gasket and the lift on the intake is only
.591 .
My opinion.
__________________ Allyn 2000 Camaro SS A4 # 3535,milled 243's with Cometic .045,custom Comp XE 230/236 cam,Hookers with catted Y,flowmaster catback,LS6 intake,FAST 36# injectors,3400 Vig. stall '86 IROC-Z race car - 565",TH400, 5.60@127 so far http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture001.jpg
I do not want to have to flycut the pistons, and im not 100% sure on heads yet because when i start looking at parts my wallet tends to fall out and the credit card ends up on the phone
but i was gonna base my heads off of the cam, figured who ever makes the cam will have a set of heads the recomend I wanna make sure i do the combination right, i dont like broken parts on the track
o yes and i should also probably mention i will be going 3:73 gears, but not for a while
4.10's would be better since your a 6 speed, and a clutch needs to be on your parts list as well. Spinning the motor 6500 is something that 70k mile clutch isnt going to like too much, lol.
Whoever you get the cam from, mention to them you are wanting to put heads on down the road that will be around 62cc's and they should be able to give you some help/cam advice from there.
__________________ Allyn 2000 Camaro SS A4 # 3535,milled 243's with Cometic .045,custom Comp XE 230/236 cam,Hookers with catted Y,flowmaster catback,LS6 intake,FAST 36# injectors,3400 Vig. stall '86 IROC-Z race car - 565",TH400, 5.60@127 so far http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d1...Picture001.jpg
My brother and I put a Comp LSR cams in ours. Ive driven them both and they are really nice. They have a lot of lift, which has nothing to do with piston to valve clearance. Yet you can keep the duration lower and still make great power without the sacrafices that large duration cams give you.
Plus with the extra lift, it will really shine when you add cylinder heads down the road.
I have a 219/235 .607/.621 113 (CNC LS3 heads)
My brother has a 223/231 .610/.617 112 (Stock heads) #54-457-11
I think the one my brother has is a great choice for all round power, drivability, ease of tuning, and it keeps the power band where you have asked 2500-6500(ish). It doesnt need to be spun to 4000+ RPM to feel the power come in, and pulls to 6500 without a problem.
They also have a new set of dual springs designed for the LSR cams. They werent avaliable when we did our swaps, #26926-16. Those with a set of matching tool steel retianers will work great!
I went with the 918s myself, and my brother went with the 921s, since the 926s werent avaliable at the time.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Lingenfelter
The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power.
"I do not want a "donkey dick" cam that is all about numbers and will force me above 6500 RPM"
and you're looking at the polluter??
when i called and spoke with tick i was told " The cam is designed to be used with stock internal, stock headed engines and performs very well below 6500 RPM"
you'll get 1000 diff opinions, what do you want? how high do you rev? you must get upgraded springs. of coarse read the cam sticky. i regret going to small but i didnt want to lose any "drivability" in case i ever needed to sell my car. the 224 / 224 w 570 lift on a 114 lsa is a good all around cam that would only need ls6 springs. 228 / 585 lift would need even better springs. bigger than that i say your talking a race cam just my 2 cents.
I'm running a tr224 and its an awesome street cam that makes stock like torque and pulls to redline. That being said, I like the 224 cams from TSP and thunder and if gears were in your future I would also suggest the 228 cams from the above vendors as well.
I would suggest the F-11 from Futral Motorsports. FMS Custom Grind Camshaft - 228"/230" .576"/.595" 112LSA - aggressive profile with a 2200-6600 RPM range, fair idle
Another What cam to go with thread! 
