Check the oil ump o-ring I told Beau and he didnt believe me that, that was his problem but he pulled it and there it was, a crimped o-ring. It is VERY easy to screw up the ring. Hell I even did it when I installed the pick up tube while the motor was on an ENGINE STAND I have the same issue in my 418 with what you are talking about, cold it doesnt tap at all but once the oil gets hot(thin) it starts tapping, and a WOT run makes it sound like its about to fall apart. If its not teh o-ring on the pump then you got me stumped. If it is a chewed o-ring then make sure when you put the new one to put a bunch of oil on it and the intake of the pump so it slides in nice and easy.
HMMM... Sounds possible. My only question is why does the tapping increase with RPM?
__________________ 2007 Chevrolet Colorado Crew Cab
3.7L I5, 4L60E
Alpine speakers/Kicker amp/Boston G8 subs
HP Tuners - self tuned
Think about it, the lifter is "pumped" up with oil, the faster you go the more it is getting "pounded" by the lobes on teh cam, which also decreases the time that the oil has to get in the lifter while its on the heel of the cam and "pump" it back up therefore the results are more drastic with higer rpm. Thats my thinking on it anyway.
Some local guys have had problems with the comp replacemeants also, FYI I have a set of Morels sitting in my garage for when I get around to rebuilding the 418.
Im with Cody. Its an easy fix. Just get under the truck, drop the crossmember, move the stearing out of the way and drop the pan. Take the tube off and lube up the new o ring and install the oring on the tube itself. (NOT ON THE INSIDE OF THE PUMP!!!!) Then screw that bolt that goes to the pump back on. IF YOU CANT GET IT TO FINGER TIGHT WITHOUT A WRENCH, SOMETHING IS WRONG. Tighten it up with a wrench and do the reverse process. (3 Beer job )
I think as you increase rpm, your lifters are starving for oil and they arent pumping up. Giver a try.
I want to know how you are so very sure it could not be an exhaust leak? I mean that is how our exhaust leak first showed it head by WOT and then tapping, cooling the engine means the change in the static metal temperatures (vs. expansion). BTW at first our exhaust leak sound like it was coming from the valve cover...
Also are you getting oil pressure symptoms that could indicate it being oil pressure related; which could mean a collapsed lifter or pinched o-ring? From your first post it does not look like it...
I am just curious because I went through the same thing by pulling the valve covers, pushrods, rockers, and re-doing everything before I gave in and had the Pacesetter paper gaskets replaced with brand new GM MLS manifold gaskets and the sound went away...
__________________
-=2003 Black Corvette Z06"Darkness" 12.3@117=-
-=2002 NBM Camaro SS #10354 "The Ghost" 10.4@130=- -=In the crate: LME LSX 454ci built for N20 and it's going in her SS.=-
sounds like a problem I had awhile back, it was a lifter collapsing under high RPM, then when it did, the rocker would clatter. If I shut it off for a bit it would be fine
I had the same problem with my old setup. Loud tapping after WOT, shut it down for a minute, restart it and it was gone. Turned out to be one of the lifters.
__________________
06 Trailblazer AWD SS ---------98 Trans Am LS2 402
I want to know how you are so very sure it could not be an exhaust leak? I mean that is how our exhaust leak first showed it head by WOT and then tapping, cooling the engine means the change in the static metal temperatures (vs. expansion). BTW at first our exhaust leak sound like it was coming from the valve cover...
Also are you getting oil pressure symptoms that could indicate it being oil pressure related; which could mean a collapsed lifter or pinched o-ring? From your first post it does not look like it...
I am just curious because I went through the same thing by pulling the valve covers, pushrods, rockers, and re-doing everything before I gave in and had the Pacesetter paper gaskets replaced with brand new GM MLS manifold gaskets and the sound went away...
Because no exhaust gaskets were touched during the cam swap. Maybe I blew one but, I also swapped in new GM MLS manifold gaskets while I was in there during the head/lifter swap.
The way the ticking appears, and disappears after WOT blasts just doesn't lead me to believe it's a leaking exhaust gasket somewhere.
__________________ 2007 Chevrolet Colorado Crew Cab
3.7L I5, 4L60E
Alpine speakers/Kicker amp/Boston G8 subs
HP Tuners - self tuned
Would it be possible to have a damaged o-ring on a car that's never had it removed? My car does the exact same thing, but there's been no work done to the cam or anywhere in there, as far as I know. Only problem I've ever been aware of was right after the car was started after an LS6 manifold install - it idled like it had a huge cam, but ran normal shortly thereafter - after a couple revvs to get it goin, if you know what I mean.
__________________ '00 GTP - "the family car"
Water-Air Intercooled, 1.90:1 Alum. RR, Oil-Res. PR's, Comp Cams 105#, 2.8", 3.0", 3.2" pullies, AFC 2.0, SLP headers, Custom PCM, WP UD, 10.4mm wires, Shift-Pack, Poly mounts...and a whole buncha other crap that shouldn't be on a four door.
Would it be possible to have a damaged o-ring on a car that's never had it removed? My car does the exact same thing, but there's been no work done to the cam or anywhere in there, as far as I know. Only problem I've ever been aware of was right after the car was started after an LS6 manifold install - it idled like it had a huge cam, but ran normal shortly thereafter - after a couple revvs to get it goin, if you know what I mean.
Not really usually the only way to pinch it is during re-install. Although there were some years that had some oil pump problems and replacement was a recommend safeguard. It may be that your sending unit is just not right, but it may also be a sign your pump is going out...
__________________
-=2003 Black Corvette Z06"Darkness" 12.3@117=-
-=2002 NBM Camaro SS #10354 "The Ghost" 10.4@130=- -=In the crate: LME LSX 454ci built for N20 and it's going in her SS.=-
I just finished swapping in a LQ4 6.0 into my Datsun Z and took it for a WOT blast and after I let off the throttle for a few I had noticeable lifter noise from the passenger side head. I pulled over and shut the motor down. A few mins later I started it back up and the noise was still there, but within 5 seconds it faded completely away.
I am running a Lunati Voodoo 60511 cam, yellow LS6 springs, and Comp 7.400" pushrods. Everything else with the internals of the motor is bone stock.
I am using 5w-30 dino oil currently. I am going to do an oil change this weekend and switch to something alittle heavier, suggestions?
I told Beau and he didnt believe me that, that was his problem but he pulled it and there it was, a crimped o-ring. It is VERY easy to screw up the ring. Hell I even did it when I installed the pick up tube while the motor was on an ENGINE STAND
I have the same issue in my 418 with what you are talking about, cold it doesnt tap at all but once the oil gets hot(thin) it starts tapping, and a WOT run makes it sound like its about to fall apart. If its not teh o-ring on the pump then you got me stumped. If it is a chewed o-ring then make sure when you put the new one to put a bunch of oil on it and the intake of the pump so it slides in nice and easy.
