Is setting the valves the same as an older SBC on the LS1? Adjusting the rocker Arm by firing order until some slack starts on the pushrod? Also there was a link to installing a cam in a LS1 while in the car somewhere on here, could someone direct me to that write-up? I'm going to attempt this by myself in the next week or so, I'm itching for more power and that nice choppy idle. I'm going with the TR 224 cam package from Thunder Racing, if anyone has any tips on the cam install from your personal experience doing this then I'd like to hear them, thanks...
Is setting the valves the same as an older SBC on the LS1? Adjusting the rocker Arm by firing order until some slack starts on the pushrod? Also there was a link to installing a cam in a LS1 while in the car somewhere on here, could someone direct me to that write-up? I'm going to attempt this by myself in the next week or so, I'm itching for more power and that nice choppy idle. I'm going with the TR 224 cam package from Thunder Racing, if anyone has any tips on the cam install from your personal experience doing this then I'd like to hear them, thanks...
Depends what rocker arms you have: stock (non-adjustable) or aftermaket? Check out the "My First Stroker" stories in the August, September, and November issues of GMHTP for a cam install, particularly the latest story on adjusting the valves. The install/adjustment is not performed while the engine is in the car but hopefully it will help. All stories are available on gmhightechperformance.com under "Tech."
Thanks, I read over the link above and got some good information but I'm not understanding the torque the rockers to 22 ft. lbs. part, sorry if this sounds dumb but when torqueing the rockers down the # 1 piston has to be at TDC correct? Tighten the closed valves depending on firing order, rotate the crank 180 then torque the rest? Or is it just torque all down the 22 ft. lbs. , rotate 180 then re-check? I don't think this will be too bad and I should have it done in a weekend. How long did it take ya'll on the first try? Thanks again, ya'll are a big help.
Depends what rocker arms you have: stock (non-adjustable) or aftermaket? Check out the "My First Stroker" stories in the August, September, and November issues of GMHTP for a cam install, particularly the latest story on adjusting the valves. The install/adjustment is not performed while the engine is in the car but hopefully it will help. All stories are available on gmhightechperformance.com under "Tech."
Best of luck.
If you have a solid roller, put yourself a remote starter button under the hood, preferably in the center, up front. Mine is right in front of the hood latch. Bump it around until the exhaust valve starts open, set the intake on that cylinder. Set the exhaust valves when the intake closes on the same cylinder. Follow the firing order, I do all the intakes, or exhaust, then all the other. Makes no difference which you do first.
That's the way everybody I know does it. Has worked for me for about 40 years.
__________________ 9.91, 136.51, 1.38 60' (Spinning, usually 1.31), 329' DA, foot braking it, NA 383" LT1, 4L60E, 3280 lbs, LT4 heads & intake, street legal.
Now 350" NHRA/IHRA SS/JA. Well, maybe it's not the SLOWEST on the planet: 10.14 @ 129.85, 1.296 60' (11.30 Index) But still not fast enough.
Thanks, that's the way I'm used to doing it on older SBC's so I'll do the same on this LS1. Now as far as valve spring removal tools, I'm looking at two from Thunder Racing, they have one from Crane cams that removes two springs at once and another that mounts over the rocker stud. I'm doing this install with the motor in the car so would the crane double spring tool work under the cowl? I'm kinda afraid the More Performance tool would break the rocker stud off in the head. All in all I think it'll be a fun weekend project, thanks again.
Thanks, I read over the link above and got some good information but I'm not understanding the torque the rockers to 22 ft. lbs. part, sorry if this sounds dumb but when torqueing the rockers down the # 1 piston has to be at TDC correct? Tighten the closed valves depending on firing order, rotate the crank 180 then torque the rest? Or is it just torque all down the 22 ft. lbs. , rotate 180 then re-check? I don't think this will be too bad and I should have it done in a weekend. How long did it take ya'll on the first try? Thanks again, ya'll are a big help.
The GM service manual gives two different positions for the crank where half the rockers are torqued on one, and half on the other. However, because of the increased duration of an aftermarket cam possibly causing lifters to be off the cam base circles at these positions (when they would not be with a factory cam), it's probably best to do the valves cylinder-by-cylinder as I did in the GMHTP article.
If you're reusing the factory non-adjustable rocker arms, make sure you have the correct length pushrods to work with your cam, lifters, etc. Since they are non-adjustable there is almost zero leeway on this. The company that sells the cam will be able to guide you on this factor.
Working under the hood is the only difficult part of the process - pull the plugs out, put the tranny in neutral, and get a socket to turn the crank and it'll be relatively easy to spin. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
Just swapped springs in my SS. Get the Crane tool that does two at a time. Makes life a hell of a lot easier. It'll work under the cowl. As for reinstalling the rockers, I put the #1 at TDC, torqued the (stock) rockers down to 22ft/lbs on both valves (both closed) on 1 & 6, rotate 90*, then 8 & 5, rotate 90*, 7 & 4, rotate 90*, and finally 3 & 2. Then, I rotated the motor a few times and made a second pass (in the same order) to double check the torque specs. Don't forget a little Loctite on the rocker bolts. Piece of cake.
please help me them, I just put the hot cam in my car, I just put the z06 springs, anyway I thought you just torqued the (stock) rockers down to 22ft/lbs and thats it. should I have done it like an old school motor?
The GM service manual gives two different positions for the crank where half the rockers are torqued on one, and half on the other. However, because of the increased duration of an aftermarket cam possibly causing lifters to be off the cam base circles at these positions (when they would not be with a factory cam), it's probably best to do the valves cylinder-by-cylinder as I did in the GMHTP article.
If you're reusing the factory non-adjustable rocker arms, make sure you have the correct length pushrods to work with your cam, lifters, etc. Since they are non-adjustable there is almost zero leeway on this. The company that sells the cam will be able to guide you on this factor.
Working under the hood is the only difficult part of the process - pull the plugs out, put the tranny in neutral, and get a socket to turn the crank and it'll be relatively easy to spin. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
Thanks too, I'm getting the whole kit from Thunder Racing so I don't mis-match anything. I'm getting the matching push rods, springs and titanium retainers for the cam swap. Still undecided about changing the oil pump, it's got great oil pressure now but probably wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an LS6 pump.
I was right called a LS1 tech sponcer and asked how to det the valves, w/ stock rockers 22ft/lbs and thats it. dosent matter which one is top dead center.
Setting the valves on a LS1 - cam install 
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