Assman

iTrader: (2)

I'm about to install a adjustable double timing set. I'm a little confused on degreeing the camshaft, the instructions that came with it are kinda confusing. Is there a write up for this or does anyone have advice that would help me through this? This is my first time playing with advancing a cam, always just installed them straight up. Any advice would be appriciated.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Comp makes a socket that is very handy for this, it allows you to mount the wheel to the socket and spin the motor using the oil sprocket. Its part #4914.

If you look in the cam sticky above, there is a good write-up on degreeing the cam that may be helpful.

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

Just above the original post, under the sticky marked "cam guide". Stickies are a good thing to read.

Assman

iTrader: (2)

Awesome, i'll check it out. I've looked at that sticky before, but it's been a while.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Its a magazine article that was put in with larger photo's. I think it provides pretty good methods. The tools are key though. I plan to pick up the heads on kit and then the extension for the dial indicator along with the Comp socket I mentioned above.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

The Comp Cams crank socket/degree wheel mount works great, I picked this up and used it on my head/cam install and it was a real help. Highly recommended!

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

If you go by that magazine article, you should be aware of some errors.

1. For the head-on degree tool you will need a piece of 12mm x 165mm tube, the magnetic dial indicator stand is worthless on aluminum. I used tube with a 2mm wall thickness to maximize stability. You will also need a M6 x 1.0 x 250mm piece of all thread and a M6 x 1.0 **** to tighten the tube down on the head. Here's a picture of what I put together for the head-on tool:



2. For the head-off degree tool, you will need a piece of 3/4" OD x 4" tube to hold the dial indicator stand. Concerning a TDC stop, none of the TDC stops on the market are wide enough to span the cylinder bore of an LS1, so you will need to fabricate one. I took a SBC TDC stop and mimicked the the design. I modified the length to correctly span an LSx cylinder bore and had it laser cut from 1/4" steel. The center hole is tapped 5/16-18. An actual size drawing is available here: http://www.andersonperformance.net/LSxHO_TDC_Stop_M.pdf

Here's my TDC stop compared to the commercially available unit that is not wide enough. The silver TDC stop is a Proform Tool piece and the black TDC stop is the one I had manufactured:

Assman

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help guys! Your info is very appriciated!

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Aaron,

Great information. I was going to use a position 0.200 before and 0.200 after piston TDC to determine center with the dial indicator. Is that how you did it or did you use a stop? Your dial indicator arm looks similar to the one I have, is that the one that comes with the Comp kit? I plan on buying the heads on Comp kit because it comes with more pieces I can use in the future and then making up the difference in pieces since I will be doing heads off.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

The dial indicator arm came from this SUM-9000016-1 kit. I used a stop to find TDC. If you will be degreeing heads-off, you would be better served piecing it together over the Comp head-on kit. Truth is, you need both head-on and head-off capability to correctly degree and install a cam. The head-on assembly is required to check PTV clearance using the dial indicator method; I don't like the clay method.

Here are the pieces I have to make it work, I purchased the way I did because I already had many of these parts. There are other ways to do it, so modify the parts list as you see fit.:

Head-On Kit:
Degree Wheel: Proform 66791
Dial indicator stand: SUM-9000016-1
Crank socket: Comp Cams 4914
Degree wheel pointer: I made one out of coat hanger and filed the end to a point.
Low Tension checking springs: Tavia 08865
TDC Stop: Comp Cams 4795
Solid lifter(s): I took some old lifters and disassembled them. I used a combination of shims and washers to maintain the correct plunger height. NOTE: I used replacement LS7 lifters and the pushrod cup is different than what was in the lifters that came out of the car; the new LS7 replacements were .040 shallower than the old lifters. I partially disassembled one of the new lifters and used a pushrod cup from the new lifter in the solid lifter tool and then reassembled the new lifter when the operation was complete. Here's a picture of the shims and washers:

Adjustable pushrod: Comp Cams 7702-1
Dial indicator tube stand for LSx engine: 12mm x 2mm wall tube This is a 3 foot piece and I cut a 6.5 inch section for this.
All thread: TRCX-M06-25 or 90024A070 from McMaster Carr
Knurled **** for all thread: Part number 62265K533 at McMaster Carr
Lock nut: 1 each M6 x 1.0 lock nut from the hardware store


Head Off Kit:
Degree Wheel: Used same as above
Degree Wheel pointer: Used same as above
Crank Socket: Used same as above
TDC Stop: Custom made, see drawing in previous post
Dial indicator stand fixture: Summit SUM-900132
Dial indicator stand tube for LSx engine: CMT-120/12-06 I cut this piece of tube to 4" and used a stock long head bolt to fasten it to the deck surface.
Note: I took an old lifter retainer and filed the area the holds the lifter in so the lifter would move smoothly in the bore while degreeing. It's difficult to accurately degree if your fighting the tension of the lifter retainer.

Also, FYI I use the following to check piston deck height:
Tavia 08052

I think that is everything, let me know if I missed anything.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

If using the dial indicator on the lifter cup and using a dial indicator for checking PTV with check springs, is the solid lifter necessary? I have a kit similar to the Summit kit you have except it came from McMaster. With the heads on, the shaft of the stand is 8mm and fortunately screws right into the rocker bolt hole. Since I am running Morels, I am planning on taking my measurements so they should be independent of the lifter.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

To degree the cam using the head-off method, it doesn't require a solid lifter.

When checking PTV clearance via the dial indicator method, you have to put the dial indicator on the valve spring retainer and press on the rocker until the valve contacts the piston to determine PTV clearance. I imagine that if the lifter your using is already pumped up and your using checking springs that it would be okay. My lifters were not pumped up and the Tavia checking springs are stout enough to compress a lifter that isn't pumped up. I also prefer to eliminate as many variables as possible, so the solid lifter was what I used.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I would prefer a solid lifter as well, couldn't find one and I hate to disassemble my originals. Maybe I scout around a bit more. I don't think the lifter height will affect the PTV measurement since the adjustable is set to zero lash.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

It won't as long as you don't compress the lifter. PM me, I can easily hook you up with some lifters to modify for checking purposes.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

What head gaskets did you go with?

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

I used the Fel-Pro 1161L and 1161R.

wilwhite2kss

iTrader: (2)

Is degreeing the cam a must in a cam install , or is the lining up the dots method acceptable? This is assuming the cam is ground correctly.

405HP_Z06

iTrader: (11)

Not required, but your making an assumption that the cam and timing components were manufactured correctly. Degreeing is only confirming that things are installed as designed.

wilwhite2kss

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good to me, thanks