Fiber Tuned Intake Review with pictures
12-20-2008, 10:47 AM
#1
Fiber Tuned Intake Review with pictures I figured that I would start a thread to review this intake and address any issues with fit, form and function. So here it goes.
I received my Fiber Tuned intake yesterday afternoon. We asked that it be shipped with everything required in order to make it plug and play. That means all required fittings, fuel rails and adapters in order to hook up to a stock car without having to run all over town looking for stuff. Because these intakes are not made at Nitrous Outlet, the intake was drop shipped to us minus the fuel rails and hardware to mount them. We hope to get the box with the rest of the stuff by Tuesday so that part of the review will have to wait.
This morning I just wanted to test fit the intake to make sure that I wouldn't run into any surprises when the rest of the stuff got here. Took the intake out of the box and dropped it in. Here are some pictures.
As you can see there are no issues with clearing the cowl. There is atleast 2 fingers clearance all the way to the back.
The first issue that I ran into is that the port for the brake booster in the rear needs to be moved to the upper driver's side corner as it's current location has it lined up perfectly with the oil pressure sending unit in the back of the valley cover. The sending unit covers up the hole completely and is just touching the threaded bung that sticks out of the back of the intake.
Here is a picture showing where I believe that it should be welded from now on. Not sure how many different valley pan designs are out there for the LSx platform but this is where it would work on my LS2 setup.
I am going to have to grind down the bung just a bit and plug the hole. Then cut a new hole in the location I have marked in the picture and have a new bung tig welded over there. I dont weld so I will have to pay to have this done and would not be disappointed if Nitrous Outlet gave me a credit towards the other intake that we have on order.
This will not be an issue with the other intake as it is going in a car that does not use the sending unit back there.
Last but not least, I would suggest that the bolt holes be made with a little more play at the bottom. My heads have been milled and I found that the holes are off just enough to make it impossible to bolt the intake down without wallowing out the holes a bit. I believe that this is the reason that FAST uses such a large hole in theirs and then just has a washer on the bolt to make up the difference.
I hope to get the fitment issues resolved by Monday so that I can get it on the car and do some testing on the street.
I received my Fiber Tuned intake yesterday afternoon. We asked that it be shipped with everything required in order to make it plug and play. That means all required fittings, fuel rails and adapters in order to hook up to a stock car without having to run all over town looking for stuff. Because these intakes are not made at Nitrous Outlet, the intake was drop shipped to us minus the fuel rails and hardware to mount them. We hope to get the box with the rest of the stuff by Tuesday so that part of the review will have to wait.
This morning I just wanted to test fit the intake to make sure that I wouldn't run into any surprises when the rest of the stuff got here. Took the intake out of the box and dropped it in. Here are some pictures.
As you can see there are no issues with clearing the cowl. There is atleast 2 fingers clearance all the way to the back.
The first issue that I ran into is that the port for the brake booster in the rear needs to be moved to the upper driver's side corner as it's current location has it lined up perfectly with the oil pressure sending unit in the back of the valley cover. The sending unit covers up the hole completely and is just touching the threaded bung that sticks out of the back of the intake.
Here is a picture showing where I believe that it should be welded from now on. Not sure how many different valley pan designs are out there for the LSx platform but this is where it would work on my LS2 setup.
I am going to have to grind down the bung just a bit and plug the hole. Then cut a new hole in the location I have marked in the picture and have a new bung tig welded over there. I dont weld so I will have to pay to have this done and would not be disappointed if Nitrous Outlet gave me a credit towards the other intake that we have on order.
This will not be an issue with the other intake as it is going in a car that does not use the sending unit back there.
Last but not least, I would suggest that the bolt holes be made with a little more play at the bottom. My heads have been milled and I found that the holes are off just enough to make it impossible to bolt the intake down without wallowing out the holes a bit. I believe that this is the reason that FAST uses such a large hole in theirs and then just has a washer on the bolt to make up the difference.
I hope to get the fitment issues resolved by Monday so that I can get it on the car and do some testing on the street.
12-20-2008, 11:00 AM
#3
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An idea on the OP sending unit -
On an old car ages ago, I took some 1/4" or 3/16" copper tubing and plumbing fittings to relocate the sending unit a couple inches, I put an adapter fitting into the block, bent the tubing into a 90-degree bend, and then flared the tubing and used another adapter fitting to hold the oil pressure sender. Not the most elegant solution but just suggesting to get the brain juices flowing, you might be able to do something similar as a workaround rather than pay a local guy to modify the back of the intake.
That intake looks bad ***.
Mr. P.
On an old car ages ago, I took some 1/4" or 3/16" copper tubing and plumbing fittings to relocate the sending unit a couple inches, I put an adapter fitting into the block, bent the tubing into a 90-degree bend, and then flared the tubing and used another adapter fitting to hold the oil pressure sender. Not the most elegant solution but just suggesting to get the brain juices flowing, you might be able to do something similar as a workaround rather than pay a local guy to modify the back of the intake.
That intake looks bad ***.
Mr. P.
12-20-2008, 11:16 AM
#5
12-20-2008, 11:43 AM
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That plenum looks huge with the intake sitting on the engine in the bay. How much does the intake weigh? Have you mocked up the TB and intake tract to the lid yet?
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12-20-2008, 11:57 AM
#10
Haven't even bolted the TB on it yet.
I can say that the machining around the ports for the o-rings was right on. O-rings went in perfect.
Furthermore, immediately after posting this thread, I have been contacted by the manufacturer who is watching closely (on a Saturday) and has already stepped up to the plate to send me what I need to work out these small bugs. Because the material is 1/8" thick and this isnt a boosted application, they will be sending me (overnight) a flush mount plug, drill bit and tap so that I can make my new hole. That's standing behind your product!!!!
12-20-2008, 03:16 PM
#19
Still haven't gotten a good clean pass on spray since I did it. Seems to be working well on motor even though it's made to shine on spray.
OK, some more updates.
The throttle boby o-ring from the FAST will not work in this intake. It's alot deeper groove. Not sure if the newer (raised port) intakes have a different type of o-ring. The style used for the runners seems to be what is needed.
I went ahead and put the throttle body on the intake anyway. I noticed right away that the TB opening is not spaced far enough from the intake body in order to clear my Nick Williams 90. Cant get more than about 40% throttle on the arm.
Solutions here would include trimming the arm on the Throttle Body or some sort of plate to extend it out. Something about as thick as the Nitrous Outlet plate.
I wanted to get rid of this plate so I may need to figure out some sort of spacer. Not really wanting to carve up a $400 TB.
And last but not least, the linkage bracket will not line up with the tab welded on the intake. I'm going to have to think about this one because all the support for the stock linkage bracket is along the bottom that would need to be trimmed off in order to work.
OK, some more updates.
The throttle boby o-ring from the FAST will not work in this intake. It's alot deeper groove. Not sure if the newer (raised port) intakes have a different type of o-ring. The style used for the runners seems to be what is needed.
I went ahead and put the throttle body on the intake anyway. I noticed right away that the TB opening is not spaced far enough from the intake body in order to clear my Nick Williams 90. Cant get more than about 40% throttle on the arm.
Solutions here would include trimming the arm on the Throttle Body or some sort of plate to extend it out. Something about as thick as the Nitrous Outlet plate.
I wanted to get rid of this plate so I may need to figure out some sort of spacer. Not really wanting to carve up a $400 TB.
And last but not least, the linkage bracket will not line up with the tab welded on the intake. I'm going to have to think about this one because all the support for the stock linkage bracket is along the bottom that would need to be trimmed off in order to work.