I bought this alternator of egay a while back, and its gave bother a couple of times, but had it repaired locally.
In short...when pushing hard, above circa 5500rpm, the alternator stops charging. The charge light does not illuminate on the dash, but logs show battery voltage dropping from circa 14 volts, down to 11.7 or so once above this rpm
When I let off, power is restored.
I first noticed it tonight, as the lights would get dim when it occured.
I bought this alternator of egay a while back, and its gave bother a couple of times, but had it repaired locally.
In short...when pushing hard, above circa 5500rpm, the alternator stops charging. The charge light does not illuminate on the dash, but logs show battery voltage dropping from circa 14 volts, down to 11.7 or so once above this rpm
When I let off, power is restored.
I first noticed it tonight, as the lights would get dim when it occured.
Is the alt just scrap ?
All std pulleys and pulley sizes in use.
What kind of alternator do you have? I use a $149 dollar one from the auto parts store and its great. Advance Auto. Lifetime warranty.
But you may have another issue. I've never heard of going into high rpm's causing an alternator to drop off. Could be the alternator though.
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__________________ 1998 WS6 T/A 492 RWHP//495 RWTQ (w/cats)
LS6 427ci LPE short block, Ported stock TB, Ported LS6 intake, Ported LS1 heads, cam: 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa, 1 7/8" Grotyohan LT's, 3" custom "Y" back to a Magnaflow Muffler, Built tranny...by a friend, Strange 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, Baer brakes, Hotchkis STB, LG Motorsports: Panhard Rod, LCA's, SFC's, G2 Super Springs, Hals all around, 315/rear, 275/front
Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we're here we might as well DANCE.
I also bought a alternator from egay last year, installed it last week works fine so far.
I don't know if its a refurbished oem part or a brand new chinese fake,
It looks like brand new though and it was just $89
I had no issues installing it, fits perfect, I just hope it won't give me any trouble in the near future cause you can read here so many guys having issues with egay alternators.
Why don't you take it back to that shop were you had it repaired, they should be able to make a test run and see up to what rpm it is putting out juice.
I know you have to take it out from the car again, extra work, busted knuckles aso.
I also hate such (unnecessary) jobs
__________________ LS1 out of a '99 Camaro: PAXTON Novi2000, Siemens 60lbs/hr inj., CompCams XR269, Hi-Tech Pushrods, YellaTerra 1.8, SLP ValveSprings, Titanium Retainers, Rollmaster double roller, pinned ATI-917279 Balancer, K&N Cold air, Melling HV-Oil Pump, OilCooler with Thermostat, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, SLP-Intake, Meziere EWP with 160° Thermostat, no PowerSteering Pump, no AC, no EGR, no AIR, no CAT's, open Sidepipes, other than that bone Stock.... tuning and logging: LS1edit&Autotap
I will do....but not sure they have the ability to spin it an equivalent speed. They just have an electric motor to spin them up enough to start charging. WHich for 99% of cases is all thats needed
When you have a large crank pulley spinning at 6000rpm, and the small alternator...thats turning it pretty fast.
My buddy had the exact same problem on his WS6 the factory alt. were just not meant to push any kind of high RPM and he has alot of upgrades and he had this problem several times and what he did was get an alternator from a Police B4C LS1 Camaro because there alt. were meant to have more of a pull from them because of all the extra electronics they have. He said they are way better than factory and he has not had the problem since and he has more work done to it now and that was about 8 months ago.
If you can find one and have that rebuilt with the same internals you should be in good shape