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Old 06-23-2008, 07:57 PM   #81
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yea i highly recommend... they did look very nice... mine kind of hit the steering...but doesnt bother the drivability...feel good... but i did have to tune it... it kind of leaned my car out...but took it to get retuned and got it working like a champ...
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Old 07-20-2008, 06:02 PM   #82
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Ordered...
And got them... However, it seems they won't clear the knock sensors on my LS2 block (L92 heads). Any ideas?
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:58 PM   #83
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And got them... However, it seems they won't clear the knock sensors on my LS2 block (L92 heads). Any ideas?
TSP 00 F-body headers and LS2

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Old 07-20-2008, 10:49 PM   #84
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Yup now we get to pull the engine back out to drill the block for them

Oh well.

Other then that they seem to fit well.
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:21 PM   #85
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I want to preface this post by saying I am not trying in any way to bash the product just give and experianced opionion of the install we did with the so far.



Ok so here is an update and what we have.

Car 01 SLP FireHawk, M6
LS2 402 Short block by SDPC
SLP L92 heads
SLP L76 Intake

TSP New headers and Catted Y-pipe.

The headers looked real nice and the finish work is great.

We could have used some instruction, Good band clamps, 02 extentions and such. We found most of what we needed surfing the net.

We got over the Knock Sensor issue by dropping the K-member and every thing then drilling the driver side Hole and tapping as mentioned. Might have been nice to have that in the instructions it would have saved ALOT of time when the engine was on the stand.

The problem now is they hit both the K-member on the passenger side and the steering shaft. While not running they clear both by 1/16th on an inch. When you lift in gear it pretty much locks the steering up

We will have no choice but to drop the k-member again and notch the passenger side and dimple the header in the driver side.

I think adding a nice set of instructions for the things needing done and dimpling the header tube near the steering shaft would make a good product even beter
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Old 07-31-2008, 10:26 AM   #86
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If you are having any clearance issues with the steering shaft you need to change you rnotor mounts. These are a big header and sagging motor mounts will definitely affect fitment. That is the only issue I have seen out of these headers. I would change them before you cut anything or start denting the headers.

I will see if we can get some kind of instructions for a header install. We can get everything you need for the install i.e. gaskets, clamps, extensions, ect. Clamps are usually included with y-pipes and extensions are typically sold separately. Maybe we can put a package together or something to help out.

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Old 07-31-2008, 03:21 PM   #87
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remember these were made for the ls1 not the ls2. so you need to put the knock sensors back in to the normal ls1 positions.

how far do you need to drill?
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Old 07-31-2008, 05:23 PM   #88
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Quote:
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remember these were made for the ls1 not the ls2. so you need to put the knock sensors back in to the normal ls1 positions.

how far do you need to drill?
...and being plugged in the Gen IV External Engine forum... hence the reason for mentioning install issues so that others will have a smoother experience. The original post doesn't mention these being LS1-specific as well

LS2+ (except LS6) don't allow you to mount the knock sensors in the valley, hence the relocation (which is a well-known issue with a LS1 to LS2 transplant). Unfortunately, as mentioned in the previous messages in this thread, the "normal" relocation position isn't viable with these headers.
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:32 AM   #89
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remember these were made for the ls1 not the ls2. so you need to put the knock sensors back in to the normal ls1 positions.

how far do you need to drill?
That there is impossible as there are no provisions for them in the 'stock' location


I am not sure about the mounts. This is a low mile car. Lets say we replace them and they do give us just enough clearance what happens next year when they have settled to the same spot they are now?

Here is a pics of the shaft. The silver ring is where it is hitting


Pics of where the knock sensors went in at.



Luckily there was a spot just begind the A/C to put the passenger side as it would not go in any of the other three spots mentioned
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:55 AM   #90
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Them junks is close.
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:35 AM   #91
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Quote:
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That there is impossible as there are no provisions for them in the 'stock' location


I am not sure about the mounts. This is a low mile car. Lets say we replace them and they do give us just enough clearance what happens next year when they have settled to the same spot they are now?

Here is a pics of the shaft. The silver ring is where it is hitting


Pics of where the knock sensors went in at.



Luckily there was a spot just begind the A/C to put the passenger side as it would not go in any of the other three spots mentioned
ya sorry i wasnt thinking when i posted that.lol
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:51 PM   #92
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You might go with a poly insert in the mounts. They won't settle as bad. Even being low mileage, those mounts have had that weight on them for at least 6+ years. I have only seen this one other time and replacing the mounts cured the problem. The car hasn't been wrecked or anything has it?

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Old 08-01-2008, 06:18 PM   #93
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Double post.. oops!

Last edited by SeaHawk; 08-01-2008 at 07:27 PM..
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Old 08-01-2008, 06:21 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon@Texas-Speed View Post
You might go with a poly insert in the mounts. They won't settle as bad. Even being low mileage, those mounts have had that weight on them for at least 6+ years. I have only seen this one other time and replacing the mounts cured the problem. The car hasn't been wrecked or anything has it?

Jon
No, it was never wrecked, and had STB and weld-in SFCs within a couple of months of purchase, so I can't see the frame moving much if at all...

Hmmm.. too late to overnight over the weekend...

So, just to understand this clearly -- the engine is physically sitting lower than the height these LTs where fitted for? How much clearance is usually between the tubes and the steering? It's hard to imagine stock mounts in decent shape would let it sag that much...

And if that's the case, wouldn't it make sense to recommend poly mounts for all applications? What we see actually locks the steering wheel in place when lifting in gear... Just tossing that out there...
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Old 08-01-2008, 09:10 PM   #95
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Well leasons learned. Save $400 to spend even more. . .
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:46 AM   #96
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Are you guys going to change the mounts?

I'd be interested to see if that helps.
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Old 08-02-2008, 06:35 PM   #97
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Yes instead of doing a cam job on a Z06 we are changing mounts and trying to get this one going today.
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Old 08-02-2008, 08:42 PM   #98
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So when you say they are for off-road use does that mean I can not bolt them up to my stock cats and y-pipe?
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Old 08-03-2008, 08:19 PM   #99
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Ok so we changed the mounts to Poly. New Stock mounts would not have worked at all.

With the poly mounts we picked up just enough to clear the steering. loosened every thing and rotated the engine as much as we could and we now have a total of 1/8-3/16ths of an inch clearance. we will keep and eye on it as it settle over an 1/8th of an inch durring tuning to where it is now.

All of our pain could have been easily taken care of with a sheet of paper explaining what is needed to do to fit theise headers.
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Old 08-05-2008, 02:19 AM   #100
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Can't wait to get a set of these
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