First, I readed the sticky for LS3/L76 in a 4th gen but I have a couple more questions. I bought a iron 6.0L LY6 complete engine.
Oil pressure sensor: I broke my old sensor so can I use the one one the LY6. I know its a 3 wire connector and in my car its a 1 wire connector. Can I only weld the single wire( brown one I think) and leave alone the 2 others while having a working pressure gage?
Knock sensors: Can I use the knock sensors from the LY6 with a extension with the right connectors to plug in. Or the ls1 pcm cant read those.
54x reluctor/4x cam: I will buy the Lingenfelter signal converter but my question is, can I use 2x cam gear? Do the converter will convert the crank signal and try to convert a 4x signal while its a 2x cam and cause problem. Because I want to bought a 2x ajustable timing set for a futur 408 stroker setup with a 24x wheel and resell the converter. If this cause a problem, do you know sellers who sell 4x ajustable timing set?
Do I need the cam sensor extension with the converter?
Thanks!
__________________ 99 Camaro SS M6 - 346 LS1(RIP) -> PRC 5.3L stg 2.5, Torquer 2, LS6 ported oil pump, LS2 Timing set, Powerbond pulley, Katech rod bolts, SLP Lid, Ported TB, LS6 Intake, ARH Headers & Catted Y, Tex OZ700 Z grip, Hurst billet plus shifter, Moser 9in & 4.11s, BMR LCA with Relo. Brackets & PHB, UMI TA & Relo. Crossmember, Bilstein HD Shocks, Brembo rotors & Hawk pads and more... 420rwhp @ 6000 & 410lbs.
I don't see the problem of using the LS1 PCM? It seems to me that changing a pcm and all the wiring harness to be more painful (and $$$) then buy a LS1 oil pressure sensor and reuse my LS1 knock sensor. I just want to know if I can use them(LY6)? And for the signal converter, its temporary, it will resell it when I'll build my 408 stroker, because its gonna be a 24x reluctor.
__________________ 99 Camaro SS M6 - 346 LS1(RIP) -> PRC 5.3L stg 2.5, Torquer 2, LS6 ported oil pump, LS2 Timing set, Powerbond pulley, Katech rod bolts, SLP Lid, Ported TB, LS6 Intake, ARH Headers & Catted Y, Tex OZ700 Z grip, Hurst billet plus shifter, Moser 9in & 4.11s, BMR LCA with Relo. Brackets & PHB, UMI TA & Relo. Crossmember, Bilstein HD Shocks, Brembo rotors & Hawk pads and more... 420rwhp @ 6000 & 410lbs.
You could probably just change the ly6 crank and cam reluctors out with your ls1 wheels. The crank wheel is a hassle to get off, but it would save you buying the box.
If you have a dead ls1 sitting around, everything should be there for you to get running on the ls1 sensors and electronics. If you plan on running the ls1 harness, you'll need a new ls1 oil sensor. Heck, we didn't even use the stock ly6 oil sensor, and we're running an e38.
The main reason to go with the e38 is to retain vvt. Having vvt is a lot like having additional displacement. You might not even need to build a stroker at that point.
Just looking at it though, getting the motor running would be easy. The biggest problem with the e38 and your car would be no class 2 serial output to run your cluster. You'd have to get an analog firebird cluster I'm guessing.
Anyway, changing the wheels is probably your cheapest option, unless there's something I'm missing.
Yes, my cluster won't work with the E38.
I already remove the wheel from my old LS1 but its to put it on the LY6 crank that scare me. How you know if its at the right place(timing)? And when I remove the crank, I need to replace crank and rods bearing I suppose... or I can retorque it on the old bearings? + new main cap bolt & rods bolts I suppose..
I think its more work and cash for a engine that i'll rebuild in a few years.
__________________ 99 Camaro SS M6 - 346 LS1(RIP) -> PRC 5.3L stg 2.5, Torquer 2, LS6 ported oil pump, LS2 Timing set, Powerbond pulley, Katech rod bolts, SLP Lid, Ported TB, LS6 Intake, ARH Headers & Catted Y, Tex OZ700 Z grip, Hurst billet plus shifter, Moser 9in & 4.11s, BMR LCA with Relo. Brackets & PHB, UMI TA & Relo. Crossmember, Bilstein HD Shocks, Brembo rotors & Hawk pads and more... 420rwhp @ 6000 & 410lbs.
IMO, use the e38 ecu and dig up an analog cluster. You can pick up an e38 ecu pretty cheap I think (like $50 or so) on car-part.com or on ebay/craigslist. All you'd need then is a reflash to get rid of the stuff you don't need and to get everything calibrated correctly, buy a one-wire oil pressure sensor then you're set.
dunno why everyone wants you to convert...
im running an ls3 with 24 tooth relector and 2x cam gear.. you can easily run the stock engine with the lingerfelter dealy-o, i actually bought it but returned it, (rebuilt engine)
now to answer your questions.. the lingenfelter box needs 4x and 48 tooth, you cant mix and match with half 2x or 24 tooth.. and it has the extension harness built in to the box, so if you go that route u wont need one..
i dont know about the knock sensor or oil pressure sending unit, i had to buy new ones... the knock sensor depends on if you have a locating tab sensor or non, and if you have a locating tab harness or not. some ls1s did, some didnt.. mine did have locating tabs, but i think they normally dont.. my extension harness didnt have locating tabs...
if your knock sensor fits your adapter harness then dont worry about it, i guess that was a long winded way of saying, your knock sensors may or may not fit an aftermarket lengthening harness(unless you just added length to stock harness and used stock connectors) oh and dont worry it will be very obvious if its the wrong style, they wont plug up....
not many great vvt cams out there, not yet atleast, youd prlly have to custom order one, altho i hear good things about mast motorsports.... plus the tons of flycutting youd do to clear a vvt cam of any size, my non vvt cam needed a lot of flycutting, pretty worth it though, runs very strong
Gen III to IV questions 
