Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - 357 SBC w/ Vortec heads

Hey I have a 350 SBC bored over .040 with vortec heads I forget what castings #s it came off of a 96 tahoe so w/e was on there... but i have the zz3/zz4 cam (112 Lobe sep, 109 IC/115 EC, 208/221 @ .050, .474/.510 with a 1.5 rocker) and edelbrock eps aluminum intake and hooker comp headers, and a carter 600cfm carb, and a stock 200-4r with 10 bolt and 3:73 gears in a 86 Monte Carlo SS that ran 8.71 with sloppy shifts because it was sliding thru gears... i dnt think that is that bad for the setup. what do you guys think?

What was your MPH?

i'ld guess 75-80.

good guess lol it was 78... i was running some pretty tall slicks well 2 inches talller than my street tires so that killed some gear... i had a 1.87 60' for my best and with a stout-er tranny and shorter drag radials that i jst bought im lookin for low 1.8s

Its got alot more in it with some better shifts from the tranny and a stall. I ran 12.8@111 with a stock zz4 in my 3rd gen, whats your race weight?

im hopin for 2 more tenths my weight is 3675 and i am getting a better converter than stock and my tranny will have shift kit... what do u think ill pick up?

get about a 3000 stall if you drive on the street, if not go closer to 4000 and drop a but load off your times, prolly close to .5 just with a stall much less the better pulling and shifting tranny.

So you think I could run 8.0s with we will say about 360-370 hp at the crank in a 3,675 lbs car?

Hard to say, if you have any extra weight in the vehicle that is un needed, lose it also.If that is your MPH, the time is not bad, but there are a couple of tenths to be had, as you said, if the slicks are 28 inches tall, use a 26 tall slick.

yeah i am gonna buy some drag radials that are 26 in and i wish i could take weight out but im not going to gut my interior cuz it looks brand new so idk where i could loose weight at... but my shifts will be crisper with a refreshened tranny and a shift kit.... one more question.. should i go with 3:73s or 4:10s

3.73 is the best gear ever in my opinion. But if it would be a dedicated track car that is another story.

My car was 3200lbs so its a lil different but 8.0s could be done with a good 60' and a proper tranny. BTW, what was your 60'?

My best 60' was a 1.87 and that was with slicks that are 2 inches taller than the drag radials i have now so im sure they will improve a couple hundreths....

i would also like to mph more in this car because if you drag race you know mph is everything the more the better but my 60's make up for a lot of that but i do have another car so it would pretty much be dedicated to the track only and cruzin friday nights n stuff

Toy might pick up a MPH or two with 26 inch tall tires.

i sure hope so my friend has an ls1 bird with some bolt ons and is doin 87 in the eighth to my 78 he runs bout a half second better but i would jst like to mph more than what i do...

get a 4000stall and an xe282hr its 230/236 .510/.520. then you will be right there with ur buddy's Bird.

i better be runnin better than it if i spend a lot of money lol i plan on goin 383 maybe next year but then im done playin with the little stuff and im goin with 454!!!

a lot a money...for a cam swap, and a stall?????...Yeah right...

a lot a money...for a cam swap, and a stall?????...Yeah right...

ok lets see... at least 500 for a stall and then about 200-300 for a cam... ya over 700 dollars is pretty cheap???? I built this engine for less than 2 grand and i am gonna be puttin a 12 bolt in it for a bout a grand and rebuilding my 200-4r yeah idk about you but umm im not loaded with money yea....

you gotta get the stall regardless of motor...So $300 or so IS CHEAP.

this is true but i think ill wait for a cam when i can afford a performer rpm intake and double pumper carb and a 400 crank so i can go stroker!

You will need more than a 400 crank, you will need pistons and to clearance whatever block you use it in as well as balance the entire rotating assembly.

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yeah thats true it would just be easier to save my money and go 454 like i am gonna do eventually any way wouldnt it

Youre looking at $550 for cam, springs, and intake. Proform 750 $500. $500 for the converter. And it likely get you 8.0's.

dang.... im thinkin i can build a 454 for not a whole lot but not dirt cheap and run 7.5s

You can run a stock 400 crank and rods (5.565") and a stock 350 piston to get a 383 though not ideal.

DO NOT listen to the dope smoker and get a 4000 converter as its waaaay more than you need and will only hurt you rather than help. Sorry 420 man but your plain wrong about that its a heavy ride......

A 2500-3000 converter is PLENTY for your package and the weight of your car, also dont waste money on a camshaft thats too big as well. Keep it simple and use a moderate hyd roller in the 238*-244*ish @.050" range and around .525-540" lift at most with your heads and compression that should be more than sufficient. Bigger is not always better, and when your heads flow a certain max number at a given lift going more lift will not increase flow or power in any way shape or form so its a watse on can actullly cost you power down where it really counts on an engine like this.....

thanks a lot i might throw a 400 crank n rods in sometime but idk when and since im bored over .040 what would that be like 386 or somethin? but i was planing on like a 3000 to 3200 stall i jst found a clone gnx converter that flashes 2500-3000 with lock up still brand new for only 350 good deal? and i was also thinkin bout gettin 1.6 or 1.7 rockers cuz i have factory ones and they arent roller and that would give me a lil more lift

There's a place called Redneck that makes some very good converters for the money, and you can find them on eBay they have a store. VERY GOOD for the money, I had so spend $1200 for a 9" Continental Steel stator nitrous converter LOL! So be thankful you can get away with a very modest converter......

wow! lol my dad had gone thru a lot of converters a guy at BTE told him that when he cut it open the fins inside were rolled up into balls and rolling around inside!

Sounds like a crappy converter, if its built right it should not break and last a long long time. Assuming the fluid is changed after each trip to the track.....

umm no? lol

Well mine is changed very often, and if you beat on it alot you need a quality fuild and to change it often.

in the converter or tranny

Both if possible, I sometimes install a tiny pipe plug to drain the converter, though you get an idea of how things look when you drian the fluid from the pan as its the same throughout. Its not really a must to change it after every trip, but when your making over 1000hp at the crank its not a bad idea to keep an eye on everything. Better safe than sorry IMO... I always have several gallons of Mikes fluid on hand, and that stuff aint so cheap if ya know what I mean....

A Mikes Transmission is by far the best I've ever owned and a bunch of my buddies agree, I even had a Rossler TH210 in my drag radial 71 Chevelle when i sold it and like the Mikes better.

very interesting idk if i have ever heard of a mikes tranny

never heard of mikes either but i currently have a redneck th350 & stall that flashes around 4300 and have had no troubles from either. like above, if you get a good convertor then you will be money ahead.

sweet i am def planning on getting a decent street/strip converter and hope move my car into the 8.4s in the 1/8th and maybe some 13.3s?? i wish i could it over 100mph but im gonna guess around 98 99