Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - 383 Stroker

I'm in the process of researching and building a 383. I already have a bare block, carb, intake, and heads. Now i need to match my assembly to what i have so far.

I'm trying to make 500+ HP at least.

Carburetor: Edelbrock 650 CFM
Intake: Edelbrock Performer
Block: 350 with 4 bolt main
Heads: Pro comp Aluminum heads with roller rockers. 64cc/190cc ( minor port work ) and stud guides, hardened valve seats, stainless valves, and angled plugs.

I need help obviously, with choosing a rotating assembly and what changes in parts that i need to make in order to make this hp rating. I'm not getting rid of the heads, so i need to work with those for now.

Are eagle products good to choose from?
Id like to do a roller cam and lifters.
This motor needs to be street able also

Where do i start????

Sorry but Procomp heads & performer intake aren't going to make 500 hp.It would take serious porting on the heads,a much better intake,and probably more carb.

i made 508 hp and 480tq with 383 on a engine dyno. edel brock victor jr. heads64cc/215 intake runner. single plane edelbrock victor jr intake with wilson carb spacer and 750 demon. comp cams 244/244 3000 to 6500. roller lifters and rocker arms.

used 383 stoker eagle kit

you will need a 750 or better carb, different heads with at least 200cc chambers, and definitly a better intake than the performer. your previous combo would be a good 400ish horse motor but not near 500hp.

I have a 750 Holley, and i can buy a better intake. This motor is going to get a Hillbourn fuel injection manifold, but i don't have it right now so i need to make good HP on a good intake and carb for now. And im in the process of finding out what cam is needed for the fuel injection.

I have to keep the heads. There is minor port work done already and im going to have more done. I'm purchasing a roller cam and roller lifters. I read good feedback on Eagle products, so im going to buy a kit from them. Is it really worth the extra money for get forged internals?

This is a street motor so im not going to be abusing it like i would on the track. I need to achieve at least 500HP, so what ever i need to do or buy id really appreciate the knowledge. Google isn't much help either

I'm trying to figure questions out like,
-What company should i buy my roller cam and lifters from?? Comp cams?
-What length rods should i get?
-Are there any particular brand of pistons that i should look for?

The whole motor is going to be with ARP products.
Id like to achieve this HP rating at 6500 RPM range, or am i going in the wrong direction?

I got a quote to have my motor balanced, machined, etc.. and to have my motor put together the guy wanted $2000. Does this sound reasonable? Its my first estimate, ill call tomorrow for more.

If you're keeping what you have heres my advice on cam..

Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R. it's a 236/242 Duration with .570" lift or .600 with a 1.6 rocker. Use Comp Cams Endure-X solid roller lifters. Trans wise, this cam will appreciate a 3000-4000rpm stall. If you want GREAT power, ditch the intake a get Super Victor intake from Edelbrock and a custom built Pro Systems Holley carb.. it'll make life sweet. visit pro-system.com for the order form after you purchase the cam/intake..:) I'm thinking it'll make 450hp if it has great exhaust and intake parts. Compression will be a factor also. Shoot for 11:1 and run premium pump gas.

http://www.pro-system.com/780xcweb.jpg

:google::search:

If you're keeping what you have heres my advice on cam..

Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R. it's a 236/242 Duration with .570" lift or .600 with a 1.6 rocker. Use Comp Cams Endure-X solid roller lifters. Trans wise, this cam will appreciate a 3000-4000rpm stall. If you want GREAT power, ditch the intake a get Super Victor intake from Edelbrock and a custom built Pro Systems Holley carb.. it'll make life sweet. visit pro-system.com for the order form after you purchase the cam/intake..:) I'm thinking it'll make 450hp if it has great exhaust and intake parts. Compression will be a factor also. Shoot for 11:1 and run premium pump gas.

http://www.pro-system.com/780xcweb.jpg


Super Victor would be a hell of alot of intake for a street car, go for the Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap

i heard good reviews about the Performer RPM air gap. Im looking into holleys and demons

I have a 650 demon for sale if you are intrested i was going to use it on my marine engine that i am building but i think i am going to go with a marine base holley to meet coast guard requirements. Pm me if you are interested carb comes in the box...

sorry man im looking for something around the 750 CFM range.

I agree with denny except the intake. for a street engine, def. go with the rpm air gap. unless its a weekend racer/fuel mileage and low rpm power not a concern. then I still think that might be a bit too much intake for that cam/power band.

I had a very similar cam in my Iroc basic 355 build (stock trick flow heads, torker II intake, 750 carb, cheapo 3000 stall ) and it was awesome to drive, and went 12.4's in the 1/4. prolly around the 425HP range. but mine was flat tappet solid cam. same 236/242 duration. could go little larger cam with the rpm air gap intake and a 4000 stall and have very good street manners and prolly very low 12's at the track if not into the 11's. roller cams are awesome if you can afford it. but for the HP returned compared to the extra cost, not worth it if your on a budget.

Here is the answer to all your questions. We already did the homework, all you need to do is install it.

http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK314%2D500%2D450&autoview=sku



I'm in the process of researching and building a 383. I already have a bare block, carb, intake, and heads. Now i need to match my assembly to what i have so far.

I'm trying to make 500+ HP at least.

Carburetor: Edelbrock 650 CFM
Intake: Edelbrock Performer
Block: 350 with 4 bolt main
Heads: Pro comp Aluminum heads with roller rockers. 64cc/190cc ( minor port work ) and stud guides, hardened valve seats, stainless valves, and angled plugs.

I need help obviously, with choosing a rotating assembly and what changes in parts that i need to make in order to make this hp rating. I'm not getting rid of the heads, so i need to work with those for now.

Are eagle products good to choose from?
Id like to do a roller cam and lifters.
This motor needs to be street able also

Where do i start????

got a flow sheet for those heads? why 72cc chambers? are they avail. in the kit with the 62cc chambers?

i also found out that i have the 210 CC and not the 190 CC. Im still looking for deals every where. If anyone has leads to a good set of forged pistons, eagle H beams, or anything at a good deal. I have the funds, i just need a place to send spend it

look on ebay. there's tons of good deals. just make sure there not seconds and are backed with the same warranty/quality you'd get anywhere else. the eagle Hbeams were like $260 long time ago I found out after paying like $400 to one of our sponsors.

and the only good that intake and carb are gonna do you is breaking in the eng. where it wont see WOT anyways. then sell them off.

If you're keeping what you have heres my advice on cam..

Comp Cams Extreme Energy XR274R. it's a 236/242 Duration with .570" lift or .600 with a 1.6 rocker. Use Comp Cams Endure-X solid roller lifters. Trans wise, this cam will appreciate a 3000-4000rpm stall. If you want GREAT power, ditch the intake a get Super Victor intake from Edelbrock and a custom built Pro Systems Holley carb.. it'll make life sweet. visit pro-system.com for the order form after you purchase the cam/intake..:) I'm thinking it'll make 450hp if it has great exhaust and intake parts. Compression will be a factor also. Shoot for 11:1 and run premium pump gas.

http://www.pro-system.com/780xcweb.jpg

I almost got the same set up hydraulic roller 08-433-8 cam,383 stroker,11.3 CR,perfomer RPM air gap,Edelbrock E-tec 200cc intake with the stock 1.5 rockers,3200 stall,LT's,Magna flow cat back,3.73 gears and 750 DP holley on my 92 Z28 I hope I get good numbers with this set up

Here is the answer to all your questions. We already did the homework, all you need to do is install it.

http://www.trickflow.com/partdetail.asp?part=TFS%2DK314%2D500%2D450&autoview=sku

What is the price for this combo.

Heres my setup and I should be around 530-550hp and 500 ft-lbs.
Eagle 4340 6" H-beam rods (becareful there are 2 versions of these rods, they make a budget version for much cheaper and they are not 4340.)
Eagle 4340 3.750" Crank
SRP Flat top pistons 11.3:1 compression
Mildly ported with Brodix track1 heads lost my flow sheet but they flowed around 290 cfm @ .600".
Professional Products single plane intake, ported and gasket matched
750HP Holley carb
Lunati Solid roller cam 242/242 .592/.592 on a 110LSA with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers
Full arp studs and bolts
1 3/4" hooker super comp header
NOS big shot 400hp single shot
I figuire the 4340 setup is good to 1000hp.

Heres my setup and I should be around 530-550hp and 500 ft-lbs.
Eagle 4340 6" H-beam rods (becareful there are 2 versions of these rods, they make a budget version for much cheaper and they are not 4340.)
Eagle 4340 3.750" Crank
SRP Flat top pistons 11.3:1 compression
Mildly ported with Brodix track1 heads lost my flow sheet but they flowed around 290 cfm @ .600".
Professional Products single plane intake, ported and gasket matched
750HP Holley carb
Lunati Solid roller cam 242/242 .592/.592 on a 110LSA with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers
Full arp studs and bolts
1 3/4" hooker super comp header
NOS big shot 400hp single shot
I figuire the 4340 setup is good to 1000hp.

curious which profesional products intake you got? the one thats "like" the vic jr? or the taller one? and why so tame on the cam? what car is that goin in? and I think 400hp shot will be too much. I pretty much have exactly the same setup as you and I built mine for a 300hp max setup. some people I talked to think that might be pushing it. but hopefullly all I'll need is 125 or so to get me to low 10's anyways.

curious which profesional products intake you got? the one thats "like" the vic jr? or the taller one? and why so tame on the cam? what car is that goin in? and I think 400hp shot will be too much. I pretty much have exactly the same setup as you and I built mine for a 300hp max setup. some people I talked to think that might be pushing it. but hopefullly all I'll need is 125 or so to get me to low 10's anyways.

I built the engine about 5 years ago and it has sat on an engine stand ever since. I have been restoring a 70 Chevelle and have lacked funds lately to get the thing to the body shop. I was on a serious budget in HS so most of my parts were bought off of ebay. I could not pass the deal up, it was a lunati solid roller cam with their pop up solid roller lifters for $190. It's just a starter cam and I know its not ideal. I have the 1.550" triple springs with titatnium retainers. I used to know every single detail about the engine but I ended up losing my whole documentation book someo how! The pro products intake looks like a dart or brodix single plane, or like the super victor. I want to make peak power at 7,000 rpm so I know this cam isn't ideal. The big shot kit has a minimum of a 200hp shot so I will start there before I go too high.

im almost going to have the same build as nitrous. Since im not running nitrous, ill stick with a cast eagle crank. but other than that, i just bought eagle H beams 4340,
Wiseco PT009H3 pistons, and im about to run to my shop to find out if my block is 1 or 2 pc rear main seal so i can order my crank. Im hoping it was a roller block before so that i can save money on the comp cams hyd. lifters.

I still have to order fel pro headgaskets, piston rings, cloyes double roller, TCI flexplate, harmonic balancer ( not sure on which size to choose, either an 8 or 6), Roller Comp cams w/ atleast a .550 lift and hyd lifters, clevite bearings for the whole block, freeze plugs, milodon oil pan, pushrods, im going to order arp hardware for the whole motor, and stainless arp hardware for the exterior of the motor. The list goes on.

Right now i have
Eagle H beams-300$
Wiseco PT009H3-475$
Pro comp heads-750$
Block-already had it in storage

I have atleast another 1000$ in parts and atleast another 1000$ to machine and assemble the block. Then spent another couple hundred on dyno testing and tuning

Heres my setup and I should be around 530-550hp and 500 ft-lbs.
Eagle 4340 6" H-beam rods (becareful there are 2 versions of these rods, they make a budget version for much cheaper and they are not 4340.)
Eagle 4340 3.750" Crank
SRP Flat top pistons 11.3:1 compression
Mildly ported with Brodix track1 heads lost my flow sheet but they flowed around 290 cfm @ .600".
Professional Products single plane intake, ported and gasket matched
750HP Holley carb
Lunati Solid roller cam 242/242 .592/.592 on a 110LSA with 1.6 scorpion roller rockers
Full arp studs and bolts
1 3/4" hooker super comp header
NOS big shot 400hp single shot
I figuire the 4340 setup is good to 1000hp.

I put together a 383 all Lunati internals 12.5 to 1 .720 lift cam. Fully cnced Track 1 head (296 231 flow and it made 599 and with a Big Shot set up for 225 hp it made 811. Actual engine dyno figures.

I put together a 383 all Lunati internals 12.5 to 1 .720 lift cam. Fully cnced Track 1 head (296 231 flow and it made 599 and with a Big Shot set up for 225 hp it made 811. Actual engine dyno figures.

Thats a nice setup there. I forgot to mention I think my head gaskets are Mr. Gasket solicor? nitrous gaskets. I think I put a cat power stud girdle on the top end and some interally balanced cat power damper. This is an interally balanced 383 assembly. Erson timing cover with built in gear drive and Im running the comp plastic cam button (dont use aluminum). Since it will be ran on the street I installed oil restrictors I think I drilled the holes out around .090". I fully polished and chamfered all of the oil passages and also polished up the lifter valley area. I also ported a melling hi volume, standard pressure oil pump and I cannot remember but I installed a different spring in the pump? I used to know so much about my build back in HS I spent a great deal of time building it. I had the block decked to a 0 deck height and actually had to take it back to the machine shop twice. The car has a fully rebuilt 12 bolt that I put a new eaton posi unit in with 3.90 gears and moser 30 spline axles. A TH-350 with a full manual valve body and upgraded interals some Torco 3800 stall with anti-balloning plates for nitrous.

Im getting so excited about the car talking about it again I might have to sink all of my bonus into it to get it running. I also reinforced the front control arms with extra material and rebuilt all of the suspension / bushings with poly units and bought a beefy sway bar. I have boxes and boxes of parts I bought for the car, MSD 6AL, msd pro comp distributor with bronze distributor gear (solid roller cams eat these, have they solved this issue yet?) The car will probably never see a cage but who knows, it depends if we ever get it done. We were going to put my engine into a sprint car just for fun but never got around to it. I have never fired the engine and I would love to hear it run. I have 3" dynomax ultra flow mufflers that sounded amazing on a 68 camaro. I also bought a holley volumax fuel pump / filter off of ebay for a great price. Its been so long since I have even looked at my engine /car. Makes me sad I didn't finish it in HS.

well I hope you greased up the walls and sealed it up really good. otherwise the cyl. walls are prolly rusty. after all that time. hope Im wrong though.

your setup sounds ok, the cam's prolly better off then bigger for the rest of that setup. but the intake is just too big. if it was a lightweight car with deeper gears and larger stall, then bigger cam and keep the intake. but I bet a vic jr would complement the rest of your setup better then a larger cam instead. that cars pretty beefy and the stall is kinda mild considering that intake wont flow good in the lower rpms. and the rest of the setup will have you in the lower rpm a good bit. but, that being said, the nitrous will prolly make up for it as far as letting the eng. rev nice and quick and helpign to overcome the weight of the car. lol.

I'm running about 500 HP with my 383 and I use a Holley Strip dominator. I have no complaints about low end torque - my 383 has plenty! Besides, with the size cam you need to reach 500 HP, the motor is not generally gettin' on until after 3000 rpm anyway. Also, you'll want roughly 3000 rpm stall torque converter. You might as well go with a Victor Jr. or similar.
It's easier to make this kind of power with a roller cam, but more expensive. You won't have much vacuum to speak of.
If this is primarily a street motor, a cast steel crank will be fine. I've been running one for years and I bracket race mine regularly. You don't need to spend $750 on a set of rods either. If you decide you're going to race this thing full time, then go ahead and spend the bucks on a 4340 rotating assembly.
My '69 Chevelle weighs 3500 pounds, has 3.73 gears, a COMP 242/248 duration, .571/.577 lift solid roller, Ported Dart II's with 2.055 intake valves, a Holley 3310 (750 cfm) and a TH350. It runs 11.90's shifting at 6000 rpm.

I can give you the recipe for 543 HP @ 6800 b ut let me warn ya. Factory 400 cranks cut down are only good to 500 HP. After that you are living on borrowed time( I have 3 cracked crankshafts to prove it!). As soon as I add 150 shot in a plate kit the motor starts acting strange so I pull it apart and Surprise surprise..........cracked crank. Start off with a good crank from eagle and it is a real simple combo.

Im not adding a supercharger,turbo, or nitrous. There is no need for a forged crank, end of story.

Your crank fell apart because you started to add nitrous. A cast crank will easily handle 550 HP, and im not even taking this motor to the track. I don't even think it will see 5500RPM shifts because i don't have the extra money to have my 700 rebuilt again.

also i was meaning to ask, is 9.3.1 compression not sustainable with a high lift cam?

Heres a link to my other thread:
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f10/383-stroker-379030/index3.html#post5904610

Im not adding a supercharger,turbo, or nitrous. There is no need for a forged crank, end of story.

Your crank fell apart because you started to add nitrous. A cast crank will easily handle 550 HP, and im not even taking this motor to the track. I don't even think it will see 5500RPM shifts because i don't have the extra money to have my 700 rebuilt again.

OK well shifting @5500 or lower you are actually looking for torque not horsepower. You want something that will make killer torque down low.Sorry I did not realize that you were building a motor for your GRANDMOTHERS camaro!

I can give you the recipe for 543 HP @ 6800 b ut let me warn ya. Factory 400 cranks cut down are only good to 500 HP. After that you are living on borrowed time( I have 3 cracked crankshafts to prove it!). As soon as I add 150 shot in a plate kit the motor starts acting strange so I pull it apart and Surprise surprise..........cracked crank. Start off with a good crank from eagle and it is a real simple combo.


ok, lets have it. or pm it to me since this fella is looking to build a truck motor for his camaro. lol. no really, pm me if you got time.


I can understand the frustration of not wanting to rebuild the tranny again, but if that is really a concern of yours, I recomend 2 things. #1, find a better builder for your trans. mine (yes its a 700r4 in my 95 that went 11.69) cause mine had zero durability issues street driving it all the time and beating it up pretty bad at the track on several occasions. low 1.6 60's too. and 2, why build all that power, if your NOT GOIN TO USE IT? oh, and 3, you dont want to build a high rpm screamer if you know your not goin to shift above 5500 very often. you'd be WAY better off building for midrange and like a 6000 rpm HP peak. the 239/242 hyd. roller in my 95 peaked at 6100rpm. better heads and it prolly would have peaked around 6400. so maybe even stay around 230 duration? or if your goin flat tappet then solid 236/242 is pretty mild and will keep the power in the lower rpm band in a 383.

[QUOTE=Irocss85;10780812]ok, lets have it. or pm it to me since this fella is looking to build a truck motor for his camaro. lol. no really, pm me if you got time.


alright here ya go
basic 383 build with eagle crank and good rods flattop pistons ( I use TRW because I found them used and cheap) My heads are IRON bowties that were hand ported n 1992. They are 205cc intake flowing 285cfm @ .600 lift.Any aluminum aftermarket head should be at least close to that.My camwas a budget Herbert racing cam p/n C6G mechanical roller.Victor jr intake with 2 inch spacer and Holley 850. Made 543 hp at 6800 and 518 torque @ 5300through the mufflers. My 3560 lb chevy went 10.23 on a 175 shot with this motor with a 1.37 60'

Im not adding a supercharger,turbo, or nitrous. There is no need for a forged crank, end of story.

Your crank fell apart because you started to add nitrous. A cast crank will easily handle 550 HP, and im not even taking this motor to the track. I don't even think it will see 5500RPM shifts because i don't have the extra money to have my 700 rebuilt again.

since you are building a TRUE street ride around motor you should get a 454 change the cam and have fun.....plenty of torque there

well I hope you greased up the walls and sealed it up really good. otherwise the cyl. walls are prolly rusty. after all that time. hope Im wrong though.

your setup sounds ok, the cam's prolly better off then bigger for the rest of that setup. but the intake is just too big. if it was a lightweight car with deeper gears and larger stall, then bigger cam and keep the intake. but I bet a vic jr would complement the rest of your setup better then a larger cam instead. that cars pretty beefy and the stall is kinda mild considering that intake wont flow good in the lower rpms. and the rest of the setup will have you in the lower rpm a good bit. but, that being said, the nitrous will prolly make up for it as far as letting the eng. rev nice and quick and helpign to overcome the weight of the car. lol.

I was told at the time when I was building my engine that a ported brodix single plane is what I needed for my airflow requirements. I could not afford one so I ported the professional products one for now. I don't think a 70 chevelle with an aluminum headed small block weighs that much. Fiberglass hood, aluminum radiator I think maybe 3400-3500 lbs. The 3800 stall actually stalled out around 4000 on a 350 that ran high 11's. So it should stall out higher. Its a solid roller and I plan on winding the bitch out past 7000rpm.

Number one: i have a 400 Hp motor in my camaro right now. Just because im not driving around like a nut doing burnouts and racing people on the street doesn't mean i cant have a 500Hp motor. The car weighs close to 4000 pounds, and the 400HP isn't cutting it. Read magazines lately, guys are putting 600HP-1000HP motors in show cars. Should they not build a 600HP car just because they aren't going to use it?

Number 2: I can't use a big block because i already have a small block and the car was built around a small block. The car is 90% finished, this motor swap was a last minute thing. So its out of the question

Number 3: Any transmission can break. And a good transmission will always break your wallet. I had the trans built for a 400Hp motor. Now im putting in a 500HP motor, i must be careful not to hurt the tranny again because its not cheap to have a good tranny built.

Number 4: I wasn't building the motor to be a screamer in the first place. Ive been talking about putting this in a street car the whole thread, why all the sudden is everyone surprised. You usually dont drag race on the roads, so i would figure that he would want something to have fun on the streets with low end torque.

I do have fun with it on the streets so don't get me wrong, this car is no trailer queen. I drive it 3 times a week, so i want to build a good reliable motor so that it will see 50 thousand miles a year

Also this motor is going to be roller equipped, so no flat tappet.

are you really trying to make 500HP under 5500rpm? or, it can make 550HP whereever it does, and you'll just never rev it that high except on the rare ocasion? you can do whatever floats your boat. but I dont see any reason for the show car guys to put a 1000HP motor in a car that gets pushed around everywhere either. but to each his own.

so by now Im sure youve determined that you cant use that intake or carb if you want to see 500hp at any rpm. just not goin to happen. I still think you need a nice solid roller cam, vic jr intake, 750cfm (atleast) double pumper mech. secondaries carb, something around the 250duration range and near .600 lift. Id call lunati and comp. cams for there recomendations to match your heads/stall/gearing/veh. weight and figure out what intake your goin to get. the rpm air gap would make a great intake for you since your prime use is street driving. it makes great power to 6700rpm, and kills everything Ive seen comparo tests with for the sbc. even when they show you "X" intake made more power, its always only above 5000 rpm. below is not even close with the rpm air gap winning easily.

are you really trying to make 500HP under 5500rpm? or, it can make 550HP whereever it does, and you'll just never rev it that high except on the rare ocasion? you can do whatever floats your boat. but I dont see any reason for the show car guys to put a 1000HP motor in a car that gets pushed around everywhere either. but to each his own.

so by now Im sure youve determined that you cant use that intake or carb if you want to see 500hp at any rpm. just not goin to happen. I still think you need a nice solid roller cam, vic jr intake, 750cfm (atleast) double pumper mech. secondaries carb, something around the 250duration range and near .600 lift. Id call lunati and comp. cams for there recomendations to match your heads/stall/gearing/veh. weight and figure out what intake your goin to get. the rpm air gap would make a great intake for you since your prime use is street driving. it makes great power to 6700rpm, and kills everything Ive seen comparo tests with for the sbc. even when they show you "X" intake made more power, its always only above 5000 rpm. below is not even close with the rpm air gap winning easily.

X2on the RPM air gap

to make 500 HP at 5000 rpm you will have to make about 525 lb/ft and without a set of REALLY REALLY nice heads and the perfec camshaft that is a tall order.

id really like to make at least the mid to high 400's in the low RPM range and let it peak out at 5 and change HP. I already have a holley 750 double pumper and i definitely second you guys as well on the air gap. But i don't know if i mentioned this already, but later on this motor will have a hilbourn fuel injection on it. Its going to be fully electronic and tuned so that it be able to drive on the streets. I have to do some researching on what type of cams they like, but it could hurt my horsepower because i need the high lift cam.

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos10.html

check out this site. combo #71.

http://www.camaros.net/racing/SBCombo.html

here's another good site to check out.

Thanks! they were very informational. Lunati seems to be another good company of choice

I say keep your 400 horse motor tha you already have and put an NOS powershot on top of it. An additional 125 horses when you want it!

no because i want my dads motor and he wants a better one :)

He spent 3 grand for his and im trying to build one lesser or equal to the same amount he payed for his. The vortec motors will not accept his old hilbourn fuel injection, so i made a deal with him that i would build him a motor

so im being told on my other forum that high lift cams should require a decent amount of compression. I'm about to buy these pistons, but must make sure they will work with my application. They say my comp. should be in the 9.6.1-10.x.x range, but im looking at a piston that has a compression around the 9.3.1 range. Is this going to hurt my chance in gaining horsepower because of low compression?

Heres a link to the pistons-http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WIS-PT009H3&autoview=sku

I was then told this, which is another way of increasing your compression even though the piston claims 9.3.1 w/ a 64cc head.

"Using mathatic a 4.030 bore x 3.75 stroke cylinder holds 783.877cc's add 20cc for the dish 64cc for the chamber 9cc for the head gasket.that totals 876.877cc now you divide that by 93 cc which is the dish ,chamber, gasket volume 20+64+9= 93 and you get 9.4287 which is a rough comp ratio based on a zero decked block and a .041 thick head gasket with a 4.100 dia bore {fel pro MLS 1142} I did say about 9.5 the ratio will change with a different thickness gasket or changing the chamber volume a few cc's".

Is this a legitimate answer?

That piston has a 20cc DOME. With a zero deck height, .041 head gasket, and 64cc head, it will give you 15.85:1 compression! With flat tops, you'll have 11.8:1. With 15cc DISHED, you'll have 9.9:1. That Wiseco piston with a 76cc head will give you 13.1:1.

Look around on the internet. There's alot of places that have compression calculators.
I have a stock deck height, steel shim head gasket, 15cc dished pistons, 4.030 bore, 3.75 stroke, 64cc heads which gives 10:1.

how do you figure, this is a 20cc Dish piston Not dome. If your getting 9.9.1 comp. with 15cc DISHED, my compression is obviously going to be lower. I think you got confused

just realize you'll have about .026" deck height. sbc's are almost always right around that area. some pistons could alter that though. so if your doin your math on ZERO deck, just know that your goin to have to deck the block by that much. or however much deck height you end up with your selected pistons.

my setup is -16cc pistons, but I have 56cc chambers in my heads. and a .010 dech height to end up around 10.8:1. your better off goin between 10.0-10.5:1 if you can. try to find a -6cc dish piston, and play around with the head gasket thickness and deck height to get your compress. in that range.

also keep in mind you want about .035-.040" quench for best poss power and knock/detonation protection to allow you to use pump gas.

there's alot of research to do to end up with a great combo unless you just buy a kit from someone who's already done that work. those "packages" almost always use "zero deck" so just make sure to read the fine print, and duplicate it if you go with a kit.

can i make these pistons work with my application? i have a chance to get them for a really great price with rings

I dont think those will help you reach your goal at all. milling the heads, thin head gasket, zero decking the block will bring your combo closer, but your not saving youself any money by buying the wrong pistons then right? more money in machining costs. and then you gotta worry bout piston to valve clearance and all that if you modify the block deck, and mill the heads and so on.

that is very true, ill spend the money i save on them on the work to make them work.

"Ya I agree with that about searching the internet and forums there's a hole lot of people out there that don't know what their talking about . if you need a little more compression you could always mill the heads to 58cc that will get you to 10to1 comp.but then your push 91 octane gas . One thing to remember is you want to keep about .040 piston to head clearance that is the minimum you can have more put you lose comp. Your 210cc head might hurt down low but the extra cubes from the 3.75 stroke should help make it up and help the Hilbourn FI up top.the cam is going to be the must important part of yuor build so get what they recomend don't pick one and say close enough. I've build all my own motors for years from muscle cars to turbo imports to dirt track modifiod and the info you get from a good cam company is well wirth it."

how do you figure, this is a 20cc Dish piston Not dome. If your getting 9.9.1 comp. with 15cc DISHED, my compression is obviously going to be lower. I think you got confused

Read the specs at that link, don't look at the picture. The specs say the piston dome is +20cc which means it's a dome. If it said -20cc, then it would be dished. Like others have said, BE CAREFUL-read fine print.

lol this is right off google.
"Wiseco PT009H3 - Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Piston Kits - summitracing.com
Wiseco PT009H3 - Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Piston Kits - Piston/Ring Kit, Forged, Dish Top, 4.030 in. Bore, 1/16 in./1/16 in./3/16 in. Rings, Chevy, 383, Set of ...
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WIS-PT009H3&view=16383&N=700+115 - 40k - "

And it even says in the summit description that its dished..

lol this is right off google.
"Wiseco PT009H3 - Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Piston Kits - summitracing.com
Wiseco PT009H3 - Wiseco Pro Tru Forged Piston Kits - Piston/Ring Kit, Forged, Dish Top, 4.030 in. Bore, 1/16 in./1/16 in./3/16 in. Rings, Chevy, 383, Set of ...
store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=WIS-PT009H3&view=16383&N=700+115 - 40k - "

And it even says in the summit description that its dished..

O0ps, my mistake. Sorry:emb:
You'll end up with 9.45:1 with those pistons.

no problem :)

That compression should be fine for my app.