Road Racing - Converting mid 10sec street/strip car to HPDE/Trackday car

The car has a solid roller 383 in it now. Makes good power. Think it will do ok in a HPDE environment? Got the biggest radiator I can get, elec water pump, Canton roadrace pan.

I am gonna swap over to a six speed.

Change the Detroit Locker in the 9 inch to a true track.

Has Global West frame connectors.

Has WOLFE CHrome Moly 6 point roll bar with Hunsaker seats and belts.

Put Strano springs and swaybars on it.

Already have Koni DA's on the rear. I have QA1 single adj on the front, will they be ok? Or do I need Koni DA's on the front also?

Car is minitubbed so I can put a LARGE tire on the rear (335).

I have a standard BMR tube K member, will it do the job?

Will put C5 brakes on the front, LS brakes on the rear.

It has a Spohn chassis mount tq arm, be ok?

Or is the car too far gone the dragrace route to go back?

K-Member won't last and neither will the QA1s.

Need to replace the power steering pump with a revalved, ported unit.

Need an oil cooler.

Larger tires on the rear will generate a stupid push

Lose the electric water pump. It won't keep up at extended high rpms.

Honestly, you have a VERY nice drag car. I'd try to sell and go C5 if you want to go HPDE primarily, but I haven't workd out the economics. I'm sure you have.

Get good brake fluid, SS brake lines, good brake pads. You have a fast car that weighs quite a bit. 100mph braking deltas every lap will tax the system in a big way.

Lose the electric water pump. It won't keep up at extended high rpms.

Honestly, you have a VERY nice drag car. I'd try to sell and go C5 if you want to go HPDE primarily, but I haven't workd out the economics. I'm sure you have.

Get good brake fluid, SS brake lines, good brake pads. You have a fast car that weighs quite a bit. 100mph braking deltas every lap will tax the system in a big way.

I put it on Racingjunk.com for sale at $19,750, 1/2 of whats in it...very few nibbles. No money out there.....SO I decided to change the car. Car is nice, decent platform.

I have almost have enough parts to put an LS engine in the car, think I should go that way? Cam only should make about 385 to the wheels with the parts I have.

I ran a meziere pump for a few years and it did just fine at hpde's in my 400rwhp rx7. The highest water temps I saw on track with it was ~ 220* in 95* ambient temps. I do have a large aluminum radiator that gets a lot of airflow fwiw.

I put it on Racingjunk.com for sale at $19,750, 1/2 of whats in it...very few nibbles. No money out there.....SO I decided to change the car. Car is nice, decent platform.

I have almost have enough parts to put an LS engine in the car, think I should go that way? Cam only should make about 385 to the wheels with the parts I have.

I hear ya. I have a Supercharged 408ci widebody C6 FS right now at $39k OBO and no real good bites either.

F-Bods are fine for the track, they just take more work to get ready. That's the biggest issue.

IMO simple is good for track days. If you want to have fun with HPDE get a nearly stock LSX and you'll still be faster than most cars down the straight. Big engines just don't handle 20min at 5000+ rpm and you spend all day working on the car. you may get good coin out of the engine as well...who knows.

turbogarrett, those elctric pumps flow more down low and less up top than a mechanical. I wish I could find the flow curve to show that (they were posted at CF some time ago), but almost nobody uses electric pumps for the road course. It's a great drag racer mod.

For half the cost of converting, you can have this car ...

http://www.frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?showtopic=13054

Don't be seduced by stoopid power ... weight and handling is where the speed is.

turbogarrett, those elctric pumps flow more down low and less up top than a mechanical. I wish I could find the flow curve to show that (they were posted at CF some time ago), but almost nobody uses electric pumps for the road course. It's a great drag racer mod.

I'm switching back to a mechanical pump as I want to start running with a group that does longer sessions, just saying that I have never had an issue with coolant temps with the meziere. I read over and over here that it wont work on the track, but how many have actually tried it?

Engine wise the oil system should be your main concern imo-keeping it cool and not sucking the pan dry.

Anyone run a power steering cooler? that was the only problem I had at the track...PS fluid was overflowing.

Also, is there anything wrong with running fat rear tires if they are proportional with the fronts? I'm just doing fun track days as well and love the fat rubber look on the street. My current setup is a craigslist special...Z06 motorsport wheels (18x10.5 / 9.5) w/285 fronts, 295 rears (F1 supercar tires). Thoughts?

I think the true track, springs, and sways will get you most of the way to a nice HPDE car. Maybe not for all-out racing but for it should work for track days.

Yes, if you don't have a power steering cooler, add one. Keeping things from overheating is a key factor.

Anyone run a power steering cooler? that was the only problem I had at the track...PS fluid was overflowing.

Also, is there anything wrong with running fat rear tires if they are proportional with the fronts? I'm just doing fun track days as well and love the fat rubber look on the street. My current setup is a craigslist special...Z06 motorsport wheels (18x10.5 / 9.5) w/285 fronts, 295 rears (F1 supercar tires). Thoughts?

If you do many track days, it would pay in the long run to source a revalved pump. Turn One makes a really nice unit ... it's also pricey.

I have a source for an equivalent pump for less than 1/2 the price.



Staggered tires ...

Think about it ... F-cars are nose heavy, so you want to put the smaller tire up front?

I'd be interested in a power steering pump, PM me your source if you dont mind.

How much heavier is an F-body in the nose? I plan to shed a little weight (k-member, etc) but I thought I read that the F-body is close to 50/50 balance. Not front to rear but left ft / Right Rr and right ft / left Rr.

As for staggared tires, so the general thought is that running say a 275 all around is better than 285 (if they fit) / 295 setup? I'm sure I'll end up with a track only setup at some point with the same at all 4 corners as that seems the most popular.

Any advantage of 17s over 18s other than cost on tires? Seems most run 17s. I cannot lower my car as its a frequent driver and the roads here are horrible so I will be running a 35 or 40 series tire on the 18s.

Also the BIggest radiator isnt always the best...

you dont want huge tires in rear and mid sized one up front.. Id say 275s all around is decent..

get Konis DAs also in the front...

I dunno enough about that TA to say anything

the brakes setup seems fine..

I dunno who said so, but I dont see why the K member isnt gonna hold up... Id think itll be just fine

I hear ya. I have a Supercharged 408ci widebody C6 FS right now at $39k OBO and no real good bites either.

F-Bods are fine for the track, they just take more work to get ready. That's the biggest issue.

IMO simple is good for track days. If you want to have fun with HPDE get a nearly stock LSX and you'll still be faster than most cars down the straight. Big engines just don't handle 20min at 5000+ rpm and you spend all day working on the car. you may get good coin out of the engine as well...who knows.

turbogarrett, those elctric pumps flow more down low and less up top than a mechanical. I wish I could find the flow curve to show that (they were posted at CF some time ago), but almost nobody uses electric pumps for the road course. It's a great drag racer mod.

what do you mean big engines dont handle 20 min @ 5000+ rpm...

that really makes no sense...