Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - Carburetor Rebuild, still having problems...

Okay, first, I know this isn't the "fuel system" section, but that seemed specific to the LS-X bodies (FI) rather than my old carb'd 388 l-series small block, so I'm sorry if this is the wrong section.

I had some problems with my 1987 Firebird. It needed to be leaned ALL the way out to get some resemblence of an idle, and still would climb above 1400rpm's for idle (I like a slow, lopey 650-rpm) from where it starts idling at 650. Furthermore, it bogged on launches (not hesitated, but just flooded the motor) and had some definite problems. So, I finally decided (when it took to shooting flames under the hood) to rebuild my old holley carb (and found some problems ... i.e. the power valve was leaking like a siv ... might as well have removed it and left it WIDE open)

Pulled the carburetor (drained all the fuel into my bum-drum mix for some fireworks for later... :) ) and got to work. After 2 days I had it apart and cleaning, 3 days it was back together, and a week later I got it re-installed (also did some more repairs while I had the car in the garage).

Now, I'm going to be honest, this is my FIRST carburetor rebuild. Ever. Yes, I've removed the carburetor to gain access to other parts, but in those cases it sat on the work table in one piece. So, this is probably something stupid that I should've known, but, well, I don't, my dad doesn't, and neither do any of my neighbors, so I'm asking here.

The car has no fuel in the fuel bowls (obviously ... just rebuilt). Now, without the fuel I can't crank the engine over, and as a result, I can't get fuel up into the bowls to get it to run. I was wondering if there's any tricks to getting the fuel in there. I know it's not getting fuel, as, well, you pull the throttle and nothing squirts out of the venturi (or however it's spelled ... sorry, in a hurry here).

Just looking to get this car started so I can try seeing if it will tune at all. Last 1/4 mile pass it went a 15.72 @ 89 breaking up real bad, before that it was running consistant high/mid 12's.

Thanks!
- JR / "Mulletbird"

Well, with a electric fuel pump, you will key it and sje will fill the bowls, but as you are stating it might be mechanical fuel pump, so you need to crank it over till it fills the bowls, might take a few seconds but it will go. Not to mention you can prime the carb by dropping fuel right into the intake and let it fire up, but it wont last long.

because there is no fuel in the bowls does not mean you can't crank the motor.

if it has a mechanical fuel pump on the engine block, then with everything hooked up you turn your key to start, crank the engine over, until the mechanical pump finally gets fuel into the carb... it can take a minute of cranking so crank for 10 seconds at a time, then wait 30 seconds for the starter to cool, then repeat. pump the throttle and if accelerator pump squirts fuel then gas made it into the carb and it should run, if it doesn't fire then you have other problems, if acc. pump does not squirt fuel then keep cranking. another thing you can do but be careful, is have a small cup of gas and pour a few ounces down the carb. when you crank, the engine will fire but only run for a few seconds on that little bit of gas, but you'll get at least 800 rpms for those few seconds which if you have a mechanical pump will pump gas very quickly, versus having to crank the engine via the starter for a while, this is typically the easiest way. and if it doesn't fire by pouring a few ounces down the carb then you have other problems.


if you have an electric fuel pump, you do the same thing, when the key is in the start position the electric fuel pump will run. Or you can jump the fuel pump manually, if it has an oil pressure switch then hook up a jumper wire across those two contacts. This will let the fuel pump run when the ignition key is in the run position but the engine doesn't have to be running nor do you have to crank the engine. FYI the oil pressure switch (not the sending unit for the oil pressure gauge) purpose is to prevent the fuel pump from pumping fuel everywhere when the engine is not running. When there is oil pressure, meaning the engine is running, the switch closes and lets the fuel pump run. But the way the ignition wiring should be is when the key is in the start position, the oil pressure switch is bypassed and the fuel pump gets power, otherwise power has to go through the oil pressure switch then to the fuel pump.

You can fill the float bowls by carefully pouring gas down the vent tubes. That'll get it running and allow the pump to catch up and keep the bowls full.

Thanks guys. And yes, it is a mechanical fuel pump (I know because it got a bad gasket and started mixing oil and fuel, so I had to replace it).

Battery is dead ... I guess (since I got it at Advance) I'll take it in there, let them recharge it so I can continue cranking the old f-body.

There you go, like i said, drop some in the carb before you crak it and it will fire up, hopefully enough to get the bowls filled.

My neighbor's coming over tomorrow after work and he'll help me some. I got a can of the "starting fluid" from Advance, battery is recharged, and hopefully tomorrow I'll be posting that I got it tuned up.

Thanks for the advice all, learned alot with this build if nothing else (plus saved the $$$ of getting it professionally rebuilt only to find out I have other problems). The car finally started, ran (for a bit of a while, anyways), and then something went horribly awry. It started spewing smoke, and then fluids. I am now parting out on what I have in there (that's easy to get to) and what's left will either be sold for a parts car/project or scrapped. You can either PM me here or go on NJFBOA.ORG to see what parts are available and what are sold. I'm still in NJ (not Michigan anymore) btw.

Thanks for the help everyone.

- JR