10 Second Club - 10 sec full weight a4 cars.What kind of setup will it take to hit 10s

Im lookin to start another build.. I sold my m6 car in my sig.. The next car i want to build i want to make it into the 10s on a stock bottom end.. when i say stock i mean stock displacement.. the only thing i want to do to the bottom end is rod bolts. i know this is gonna cost a fortune to hit this mark.. but i just wanna be able to say ive hit 10s on a stock CI 346 with just heads cam and intake. and other bolt ons in a full weight A4 car with a lot of suspension mods. .... so what kind of setup will it take to hit this mark.. i know its been done before.. so guys post up..

My car is a little over 3700lbs with me in it - best ET in sig. I have a forged shortblock, but similar results could be had w/o one. I have AFR 205's, a custom gorund cam by Crane similar in specs to a Thunder Trak or TSP Torquer, Mamo Ported FAST 90 w/ a 90mm NW TB, ATI UD pulley/dampener, Meziere EWP, 160* stat, Kooks 1.75" - 1.875" LT headers, TSP 3" duals, Lots of BMR stuff, QA1's, Yank SY3500 stall, built 4L60E, 3.73 gears, 275/60-15 MT drag radials. The car is very docile and was even daily driven for a while w/o a hitch. You could go more aggressive on the cam, bigger converter, more gear, and even try some TFS 215's to eek out a little more power with the only trade off of not being as smooth running as my car.

HTH...

awesome man.. thanks for the post.. i was lookin into tfs 215s and maybe like a ms4 and fast 90/90 with all other boltons as well.. but didnt know if that would cut it with out nitrous.. i dont mind any power adders.. but i really just want to be able to say ive hit tens on all motor..

keep em comin guys!!

Why not get a decent cam and a good hit of nitrous? My car runs mid 11's all day NA and i'm hoping a 100-150 shot of the giggle will net me a high 10.x pass.

awesome man.. thanks for the post.. i was lookin into tfs 215s and maybe like a ms4 and fast 90/90 with all other boltons as well.. but didnt know if that would cut it with out nitrous.. i dont mind any power adders.. but i really just want to be able to say ive hit tens on all motor..

NP. I would take advantage of the better parts available currently. TFS 215's, FAST 92, Kooks or ARH LT's, custom ground cam (Pat G), etc. Power under the curve is where it's at. Nitrous is great... been there, done that. It's nice to have the power on tap all the time.

nothing wrong with nitrous.. ive just never personally ran it.. its just my goal to hit 10s on the motor. once i do that y not do some work to the bottom end and throw a 100-150 shot on it then shoot for low 10s or even high 9s.. i want a set up to where i dont have to worry about an intake exploding.. i understand that as long as the car is tuned right that should not happen.. but everything is capable of malfunction.. more power to any1 who runs nitrous.. its a great bang for the buck.. but my goal is 10s on motor..


as for fast 92 thats what i meant.. i dunno y i typed fast 90/90.. i guess just force of habit from always hearing fast 90/90

Right now my main goal is to save up for a 12 bolt, no more exploding 10 bolts. After that I want to get a better set fo rockers, (Crane gold's), and look into porting my 90mm to accept a RevX 95mm TB,and possibly a 100mm MAF. I doubt it will pick up much, but I just need a little more to offset the weight of the 5 pt. Wolfe bar I'm about to add. I also want to see about a better converter for my application. The car is consistent as all hell, but I feel like I'm leaving some on the table. I've got it narrowed down to FTI or PI. I would like to keep working with what I've got and go 10.50's this winter when it cools down.

Like I said, I could have gone more radical - but my car drives really well. Rush hour traffic didn't even seem to affect it. It just was a little hairy in the rain on the MT's, but I slowed down and drove easy - not a big deal. It's nice to have a car with all the creature comforts and be able to run 10's in "street trim."

thanks for the posts... but keep them coming.. i know there is more than just 1 guy that has hit this mark!!

Mine is at 11.2 at full weight in +1800 DA.

Here is what I got. TA with 92k miles on the shortblock. Cheap $$ TSP 5.3L heads,228 Cam,LS6 intake,ARH 1 7/8 headers,EWP,underdrive pulley, Yank SS4000 stall,3.73 gears. Race weight is 3600lbs.

With a FAST92mm and a better DA I'm sure this will run 10's.Add some TFS 215's and a bigger Cam it will go mid 10's.

The car is built to run a local 11.5 index class right now.

Same money and time. Buy a car already built for 10's.

cam and nitrous got me bottom 10's in a 98 stock rod bolts and 140K miles.

killer heads, TFS are the best best but others can get you there(TEA, Livernoise, PRC 5.3's LS6's etc), 23X 24X cam, PT4400 converter, 4.10 gears should get you there in +1000-1800DA

Takes around 450-ish rwhp to get in the 10's full weight. Takes a decent da also.

Goona need a 1.50 sixty foot or better.

any1 know of anybody running the trick flow 215 head and cam combo.. just wondering what kinda numbers their new cam puts out.. the new cam is a 238/242 duration with a 595/595.. sounds like a pretty nice setup but just wondering if any1 has tried them yet.

Takes around 450-ish rwhp to get in the 10's full weight. Takes a decent da also.

Goona need a 1.50 sixty foot or better.

Agreed. I ran my #'s in mid to upper teens for DA. (1400'-1900') I make mid 400-ish #'s as well.

You can always throw on a s/c with plenty of room to grow.

Would this do it:

-Patriot LS6 heads 308/230 flow
-224/228 Comp Cam
- 42's
- FAST 92 / 95mm TB

I'm putting those on mine with the 3700 stall and 3.70 9". Don't know if it will go 10's but went almost 12.0 with bolt-ons. Will drive fairly normal

Im going to do Ms3/Prc 5.3 heads, pt4400, bolt ons, suspension and hope for a 1090 at 3500 lbs.

It would be hard to hit 10's without taking some weight out of it and stock displacement. My car would run better NA numbers with some weight reduction and a bigger convertor but nitrous is the best bang for the buck. Drove my car 300 miles to the track with the cruise on and drove it home. Mods and times in my sig. Good luck on your build!

Takes around 450-ish rwhp to get in the 10's full weight. Takes a decent da also.

Goona need a 1.50 sixty foot or better.

Seems kinda low to me, with that logic I should walk into the 10's with a 100 shot since my car has 399RWHP n/a already.

Seems kinda low to me, with that logic I should walk into the 10's with a 100 shot since my car has 399RWHP n/a already.

What kind of # does your car run at the track NA? Doesn't seem unreasonable to me at all.

Seems kinda low to me, with that logic I should walk into the 10's with a 100 shot since my car has 399RWHP n/a already.


Seeing as I went 10.90 weighing 3700lbs with 450rwhp.....I got test data to back it up.

10.58 weighing 3585 in better air, no motor changes at all.

DOnt matter how much power you got if you dont know how to use it.

I have seen cars go LOW 10's with 420 to the wheels weighing 3500lbs. Ever seen a super stocker?

I think the main reason people don't go tens often with 450-460RWHP is due the amount of high reading dynos out there. We get alot of 400RWHP 12 second cars out here

I think the main reason people don't go tens often with 450-460RWHP is due the amount of high reading dynos out there. We get alot of 400RWHP 12 second cars out here


i agree with that.. my last setup. for one thing i was running stock 3.42 gears and had 2.0 sixty foot times and a junk tranny i was only pulling a 12.99 et but was running 112 mph.. the mph was there to run low 12s but horrible 60 foot times and i had to let completely out of it in between shifts to get the 6 speed to shift.. i never dynoed the car but if i had to guess it was pushing at least 410- 420 at the wheels.. ive learned a lot by researching that its all in bottom end power.. and a good torque curve.. not the max HP number..

I don't even like posting dyno #'s unless it's a before -> after comparision and the test is apples to apples. Dyno #'s don't mean crap unless you put it to the pavement. My car made some very strong #'s for my set up, but I refuse to put up exact #'s. I would rather let the track #'s speak for the car and the overall package.

I RAN A 7.26 fri nite 1.58 60 foot at 92 mph dyno numbers in sig 3500 with me in the car hope this help! shes got alittle more in her, the car was hitting the rev limiter from 1st to 2nd

1/8 mile track

7.26 is arond 11.20s i think?

i think 7.00s is around 10.90s?

7.26 is arond 11.20s i think?

i think 7.00s is around 10.90s?

The last pass I made in my car this year was a 10.865, the 1/8 was 6.92 - just for comparison. I went low 6.80's in the 1/8 on my 10.70 pasess. I dug out an old slip, 7.258 = 11.313 at the other end.

thanks man i was close


86 iroc what does ur car whey? what did u dyno?

i wont a 10 sec pass

thanks man i was close


86 iroc what does ur car whey? what did u dyno?

i wont a 10 sec pass

It was 3540 w/o a driver... I am about 175-180lbs myself. It dyno'd north of 450 RWHP. My #'s are similar to yours, with a little more torque. Your car is leaving good with a 1.58 the first time out. Get into the 1.4's and you're golden. That's my next step, get a strong rear and a different converter. I'm trying to go 10.50's this winter without making any more power. Just better DA and a harder launch.

ok thanks

Takes around 450-ish rwhp to get in the 10's full weight. Takes a decent da also.

Goona need a 1.50 sixty foot or better.
I agree. A friend of mine made 441 threw an auto and ran 11.30 @ 120 with a 1.53 60'. That was a 3700 race weight also.

I think it would need a little more than 450RWHP through an auto to get there full weight. I had a 442RWHP full weight A4 car before this one, 4.10's etc. and it was going 11.6's hitting the limiter on the 2-3 shift, 3700 with me in it (I weigh 175). With some suspension and the limiter issue fixed I think the car was capable of 11.2-11.3's. Heres what I'd do:

TFS 215's + thinner gasket to bump compression
Custom big grind cam
4.10's in the 10 bolt (you won't need the 12 bolt anything sub 500RWHP in an A4, and its lighter)
1 7/8 or 2" primary headers
True Duals
3500-4000 stall (the gears will make it feel tighter so don't worry about going 4k) + built tranny
Seat time

You can do it with 450 rwhp, takes the correct converter and a 60ft in the high 1.40's low 1.50's

Thanks for all the input guys! and Trust, that is 1 of the sickest looking ws6's i have ever seen! nice ride bro!

You can do it with 450 rwhp, takes the correct converter and a 60ft in the high 1.40's low 1.50's

That is the key.

My DD is full weight(3550) without me in it.
218/224 .550 112, ls6 yellows. Pacesetters, borla. 150 wet hit. UMI tunnel mount TA, UMI rod end lcas w/ lowering brackets and PHB, no sway bar in front, mickey 255/50/16 DR's, and a 2800-3000 Vig stall. Stock 3.23 rear

Not quite 10.90s, but 11.01 @ almost 124 is close.

he wants to do it NA i believe..

i was close to there, but i had weight reduction and stock suspension hurts :(..

nice flowing heads.. AFRs or the such
custom big grind cam
373-410s (depends on how much your gonna drive the car on the road)
4k VIG coverter or 4400 of most other brans... VIG flashes high..
Xpipe with 1 chambers or some other free flowing exhaust
ported FAST intake
whatever necessary suspension components that will get you to hook

that should get you really close..

Nice thread I wanted to know the same thing:D

this is interesting, my goals are in this order:
1: full bolt on 12 second car
2: cam only 11 second car
3: head cam low 11 high 10 car
4: Stroked motor, reuse heads, custom cam mid to low 10's

some nitrous can be added at any stage but i would like to have a real fast N/A car. I love the idea of nitrous but i think you get more respect from doing it N/A.

this is interesting, my goals are in this order:
1: full bolt on 12 second car
2: cam only 11 second car
3: head cam low 11 high 10 car
4: Stroked motor, reuse heads, custom cam mid to low 10's

some nitrous can be added at any stage but i would like to have a real fast N/A car. I love the idea of nitrous but i think you get more respect from doing it N/A.

IMO respect is just as great either way.. you get more people that are suprised by the setup staying NA..

why would you reuse the heads you used on a 346 build with a stroker build such as a 408 or something?
just curious..

this is interesting, my goals are in this order:
1: full bolt on 12 second car
2: cam only 11 second car
3: head cam low 11 high 10 car
4: Stroked motor, reuse heads, custom cam mid to low 10's

some nitrous can be added at any stage but i would like to have a real fast N/A car. I love the idea of nitrous but i think you get more respect from doing it N/A.


1: Very doable. Get a converter, tune, and a set of drag radials - you'll be there.

2: Again, very doable. My friend's 01' went 12.00 with full bolt ons in great DA. Then 11.67 with just a mild MTI Stealth II camshaft, again in great weather. It was a consistent 11.80 car in most weather, and 12.30's were the norm prior to the cam swap.

3: Not unreasonable at all with the right parts.

4: If it didn't at least run mid 10's, I would push it off of a cliff.

IMO respect is just as great either way.. you get more people that are suprised by the setup staying NA..

why would you reuse the heads you used on a 346 build with a stroker build such as a 408 or something?
just curious..

i would reuse the heads because if i had trickflow 215's for the head cam I would hope that they would feed a 408 too. I would be super disappointed considering some people run 383 with cnc'd 243's. I didnt mean the stock 241 heads, i meant either aftermarket heads of cnc'd GM heads, maybe LS3 or L92.

1: Very doable. Get a converter, tune, and a set of drag radials - you'll be there.

2: Again, very doable. My friend's 01' went 12.00 with full bolt ons in great DA. Then 11.67 with just a mild MTI Stealth II camshaft, again in great weather. It was a consistent 11.80 car in most weather, and 12.30's were the norm prior to the cam swap.

3: Not unreasonable at all with the right parts.

4: If it didn't at least run mid 10's, I would push it off of a cliff.

i see your car ran 10.77 what kind of combo did you use because thats the kind of times that i would be happy with. If i could get a 10.77 N/A i would spray like 150 on it and hopefully hit a high 9. Then all my life goals would be accomplished.LOL

i see your car ran 10.77 what kind of combo did you use because thats the kind of times that i would be happy with. If i could get a 10.77 N/A i would spray like 150 on it and hopefully hit a high 9. Then all my life goals would be accomplished.LOL

i dont think you could hit 9s on a 150 shot..

but i could be wrong! :nod:

i see your car ran 10.77 what kind of combo did you use because thats the kind of times that i would be happy with. If i could get a 10.77 N/A i would spray like 150 on it and hopefully hit a high 9. Then all my life goals would be accomplished.LOL

Pretty simple set up... Mamo-ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, AFR 205's - 59cc, custom ground Crane camshaft, Kooks 1.75-1.875 step headers, 3" TSP duals, SY3500 stall, 3.73 gears. It has all the other BS too... lid, 160* stat, EWP, UD pulley. I do have a forged shortblock with higher than stock compression. Other than that, no tricks.

I bought most of my parts 3-4 years ago. If I were to do it again, I would most likely get TFS 215's and a FAST 92mm, RevX 95mm TB, etc. My current converter is a carry over from the bolt on/N20 days. It works better than I ever could have imagined. But, I think there is a better converter out there for me. I should be 60'ing about .05 better IMO. If everythng comes together this winter - I expect to go 10.50's w/o making any extra power or yanking any weight out of it. The cooler air and a harder launch should be enough. Then it's "done." I doubt I'll ever do it, but I was told that if my car hooked - it would go upper 9's on a 100 wet kit w/o a problem. Evidently the cam was ground to really wake up on the bottle. :secret2:

Pretty simple set up... Mamo-ported FAST 90, NW 90mm TB, AFR 205's - 59cc, custom ground Crane camshaft, Kooks 1.75-1.875 step headers, 3" TSP duals, SY3500 stall, 3.73 gears. It has all the other BS too... lid, 160* stat, EWP, UD pulley. I do have a forged shortblock with higher than stock compression. Other than that, no tricks.

I bought most of my parts 3-4 years ago. If I were to do it again, I would most likely get TFS 215's and a FAST 92mm, RevX 95mm TB, etc. My current converter is a carry over from the bolt on/N20 days. It works better than I ever could have imagined. But, I think there is a better converter out there for me. I should be 60'ing about .05 better IMO. If everythng comes together this winter - I expect to go 10.50's w/o making any extra power or yanking any weight out of it. The cooler air and a harder launch should be enough. Then it's "done." I doubt I'll ever do it, but I was told that if my car hooked - it would go upper 9's on a 100 wet kit w/o a problem. Evidently the cam was ground to really wake up on the bottle. :secret2:

whats your race weight?

whats your race weight?

3540 w/o driver, I add about 175-180lbs to the mix.

3540 w/o driver, I add about 175-180lbs to the mix.

wow, impressive times for the weight..

whats your 1/8?

Cam specs?

wow, impressive times for the weight..

whats your 1/8?

6.80's @ almost 100 MPH.

6.80's @ almost 100 MPH.

wow, that is really impressive...

you think its the heads that help the most?

i would love to get my car that low..

A4's and dyno's go together like turds and hotdog buns.

is this from Gomer, as in Gomer "The" tuner in alabama?

Cam specs?

:nod:!

its less than 240 duration... but how much less? low 230s high 230s...

lift?
lsa?

Im lookin to start another build.. I sold my m6 car in my sig.. The next car i want to build i want to make it into the 10s on a stock bottom end.. when i say stock i mean stock displacement.. the only thing i want to do to the bottom end is rod bolts. i know this is gonna cost a fortune to hit this mark.. but i just wanna be able to say ive hit 10s on a stock CI 346 with just heads cam and intake. and other bolt ons in a full weight A4 car with a lot of suspension mods. .... so what kind of setup will it take to hit this mark.. i know its been done before.. so guys post up..

There's always my setup..


2002 Z28 Camaro A4 with Trickflow 215cc heads milled to 62cc, Harland sharp shaft roller rockers 1.7 ratio, 23X/23X-64X/61X-114LSA cam, FMS chrome-moly hardened 5/16" push rods 7.500", ARP hex head bolts, FMS ported oil pump, LS6-2 timing chain, 30lb SVO injectors, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Lid, K&N drop in, Hooker longtubes, custom true duals with Magna pack mufflers, PTC 4400 Stall converter, built 4L60E, Strange 12bolt with 4.11 gears, Billet Specialties light weight rims 15X10 in the rear and 15X3.5 in the front, 28" tall Hoosiers in the rear, ported fast 90mm, NW TB, Custom Racetronix / Walbro 255 pump and dyno tuned by Allan Futral.

There's always my setup..


2002 Z28 Camaro A4 with Trickflow 215cc heads milled to 62cc, Harland sharp shaft roller rockers 1.7 ratio, 23X/23X-64X/61X-114LSA cam, FMS chrome-moly hardened 5/16" push rods 7.500", ARP hex head bolts, FMS ported oil pump, LS6-2 timing chain, 30lb SVO injectors, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Lid, K&N drop in, Hooker longtubes, custom true duals with Magna pack mufflers, PTC 4400 Stall converter, built 4L60E, Strange 12bolt with 4.11 gears, Billet Specialties light weight rims 15X10 in the rear and 15X3.5 in the front, 28" tall Hoosiers in the rear, ported fast 90mm, NW TB, Custom Racetronix / Walbro 255 pump and dyno tuned by Allan Futral.

what kind of times are you running and whats your 60'. I know your in the 10's but what exact times.

You guys make it sound like a mid 10 second full weight all motor f body is like ordering up a pizza...it aint.

Look at all the guys with 408's running in the 11's.

The CAR has to be working to get in the tens. You can have 700 at the wheels and run low 12's. See your typical Supra.

wow, that is really impressive...

you think its the heads that help the most?

i would love to get my car that low..



is this from Gomer, as in Gomer "The" tuner in alabama?

I believe it's matched parts, my TQ curve looks like a dinner table. A set of heads are merely part of the equation. As for my sig quote, yup I took that quote from a thread here on this web site a few years back. I never have changed it because it cracks me up - and is true at the same time.

There's always my setup..

2002 Z28 Camaro A4 with Trickflow 215cc heads milled to 62cc, Harland sharp shaft roller rockers 1.7 ratio, 23X/23X-64X/61X-114LSA cam, FMS chrome-moly hardened 5/16" push rods 7.500", ARP hex head bolts, FMS ported oil pump, LS6-2 timing chain, 30lb SVO injectors, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Lid, K&N drop in, Hooker longtubes, custom true duals with Magna pack mufflers, PTC 4400 Stall converter, built 4L60E, Strange 12bolt with 4.11 gears, Billet Specialties light weight rims 15X10 in the rear and 15X3.5 in the front, 28" tall Hoosiers in the rear, ported fast 90mm, NW TB, Custom Racetronix / Walbro 255 pump and dyno tuned by Allan Futral.

i like his setup! runs good too!

You guys make it sound like a mid 10 second full weight all motor f body is like ordering up a pizza...it aint.

Look at all the guys with 408's running in the 11's.

The CAR has to be working to get in the tens. You can have 700 at the wheels and run low 12's. See your typical Supra.

nobody is making it seem like that, at least i dont think..

its not easy at all, but very attainable no doubt..

guys with 408s running in the 12s...... well, ya know.. :lol:

i already have full suspension and a built trans.. i need a little more power and a rear...
i think the CAR is put together enough to get 10s, just not the motor yet..

I believe it's matched parts, my TQ curve looks like a dinner table. A set of heads are merely part of the equation. As for my sig quote, yup I took that quote from a thread here on this web site a few years back. I never have changed it because it cracks me up - and is true at the same time.

in my old TA i think if i would have just went with a nice set of AFRs or something of the like along with a GOOD ported 92 setup, i would have trapped 100mph.. but who knows..

Seeing as I went 10.90 weighing 3700lbs with 450rwhp.....I got test data to back it up.

10.58 weighing 3585 in better air, no motor changes at all.

DOnt matter how much power you got if you dont know how to use it.

I have seen cars go LOW 10's with 420 to the wheels weighing 3500lbs. Ever seen a super stocker?

Mine is 3520 with me in it on the scales, dynoed 399 RWHP on the dyno and runs 11.6's at ~118MPH with a best trap of 121.

The problem with a blanket statement that 450 hp will net you 10's is that you assume everything on the car is perfectly matched. I've seen plenty of 500+ HP cars barely break into the 11's, let alone a 10 because they still run a 2.73 gear or some other mismatched part.

Mine is 3520 with me in it on the scales, dynoed 399 RWHP on the dyno and runs 11.6's at ~118MPH with a best trap of 121.

The problem with a blanket statement that 450 hp will net you 10's is that you assume everything on the car is perfectly matched. I've seen plenty of 500+ HP cars barely break into the 11's, let alone a 10 because they still run a 2.73 gear or some other mismatched part.


Reading comprehension really IS a wonderful thing....you must have missed this part of my post, see below.


******The CAR has to be working to get in the tens.*****

A minimum of 450 rwhp will get you in the 10's with a low 1.50 60ft in a 3700 lb car. In a decent DA of course. MIne did.

Reading comprehension really IS a wonderful thing....you must have missed this part of my post, see below.

******The CAR has to be working to get in the tens.*****

A minimum of 450 rwhp will get you in the 10's with a low 1.50 60ft in a 3700 lb car. In a decent DA of course. MIne did.

Your powers of dialect and description are lacking. My car WORKS just fine. Why not simply elaborate in your reply that it would take more than a simple power level to reach a certain goal? Many people here are going to skim the replies and not fully comprehend what it REALLY takes to get there. You are not doing anyone a service by eliminating the details.

Well I guess I can post up my slow n/a car.

6.0 lq9. Stock bore, eagle rods, diamond 9.5's, stock crank, c&c'd 5.3 heads, ported fast78, ported stock tb(lol), 36lb fast inj, hookers, bullets on collectors, th350, 4600 stall, 4.86 geared 9in, full interior, 10pt CM cage, no heat/ a/c or P/s. etc
10.90s on footbrake @ 120mph.

slow. it only made 400rwhp(lol again) but the 350, non lockup, and 4.86 really are shit for dyno #s. Goes to show dyno #s are for internet boards. also has a 3570 race weight too though.

what kind of times are you running and whats your 60'. I know your in the 10's but what exact times.

Sorry it took so long to get back with you guys. I had a 1.49 60ft. if I remember. 10.99@122mph. @3600lbs. The car has more left in it to. I've been ordering stuff to knock the weight down. I wana get this car down to about 3100lbs or less if I can and keep it looking stock..

Stalled A4, cam only with some spray should get you there.

Stalled A4, cam only with some spray should get you there.

exactly. like cake

Stalled A4, cam only with some spray should get you there.

I would really like to get there on motor even just a 10.99. I know with just about any FI 10's are pretty easy because you can add power to you get there. On motor you need the suspension and the parts to run 10's, then I would spray and try to break into the 9's.

I would really like to get there on motor even just a 10.99. I know with just about any FI 10's are pretty easy because you can add power to you get there. On motor you need the suspension and the parts to run 10's, then I would spray and try to break into the 9's.

I wish it was that easy. When you get to a certain point, around the mid to high 10s mark, it takes a lot more power to go a second faster than it did to go from 12s to 11s or anywhere else.

I wish it was that easy. When you get to a certain point, around the mid to high 10s mark, it takes a lot more power to go a second faster than it did to go from 12s to 11s or anywhere else.

honestly I would be thrilled to stuck a mid 10's on motor. I'm probably just saying that now though because I'm hoping to do high 12's in the 1/4. LOL

But if I ever do a shortblock I would love to get a 408 that was built to hold a 300 shot, that way hopefully I wouldn't have to much of a problem going from 10.9 N/A to 9.9 on nitrous.