Advanced Engineering Tech - Cylinder Honing

Which is better for honing stock Iron LS2 Sleeves?

Silicone Carbide or Aluminum Oxide?

I plan on using 320 grit of whichever material that will provide the best hone...Any opinions?

I just went ahead with the Silicone Carbide because of it properties over the Aluminum Oxide...

Depends on what stones they are. We use both. Are you talking Sunnen?

I'm using a Flex-Hone with the globules...I've read that it provides a better cross hatch pattern...

I tried the Flex-Hone out today to see what it would do...I'm pleased with the results..I do have to go over the two cylinders some more though...

How much can you take off with honing and still use stock piston rings?

not a whole lot and not usually enough to get everything cleaned up but half a thousandth to a thousandth has been done quite a bit by quite a few people. Just depends on how bad your cylinders are already.

It's just Cylinder #7... everything else is cleaning up nicely....With about thousandth of room to play then I should be completely fine....I'll just have to take my time....

Does anyone know the ring end gap specs for stock LS2 piston rings? Also on cylinder #7 the pitting can not be caught be a fingernail..But you can feel it with your finger tip...How adversly will this affect piston ring sealing? And how much would I be looking at to have a shop hone that one cylinder? Can you help me out ASAP?!?!Thanks for you replys..

Does anyone know the ring end gap specs for stock LS2 piston rings? Also on cylinder #7 the pitting can not be caught be a fingernail..But you can feel it with your finger tip...How adversly will this affect piston ring sealing? And how much would I be looking at to have a shop hone that one cylinder? Can you help me out ASAP?!?!Thanks for you replys..

I can't really see anuthing so I can't tell you anything for sure but if you can't feel it or it is subsurface you shoulc be fine in general.

I can't really see anuthing so I can't tell you anything for sure but if you can't feel it or it is subsurface you shoulc be fine in general.

I'll post up some pics tomorrow...But until then does this sound about right for the stock rings? I'm not a professional engine builder by any means so thanks for all the help...Oh and for the 1st and 2nd compression rings do you know if the dot faces upward or downwards on both?
Piston Ring End Gap - First Compression Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.20-0.41 mm
0.008-0.016 in

Piston Ring End Gap - Second Compression Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.37-0.69 mm
0.015-0.027 in

Piston Ring End Gap - Oil Control Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.22-0.79 mm
0.009-0.031 in

I'll post up some pics tomorrow...But until then does this sound about right for the stock rings? I'm not a professional engine builder by any means so thanks for all the help...Oh and for the 1st and 2nd compression rings do you know if the dot faces upward or downwards on both?
Piston Ring End Gap - First Compression Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.20-0.41 mm
0.008-0.016 in

Piston Ring End Gap - Second Compression Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.37-0.69 mm
0.015-0.027 in

Piston Ring End Gap - Oil Control Ring - Measured in Cylinder Bore - Production
0.22-0.79 mm
0.009-0.031 in

Dots face up. Ring gaps should be .015 / .025 / .015

Thanks for the help... I did a quick check on cylinder #5 and 1st ring= .018 and 2nd ring= .027 ....How tight should my gauges be in the gap? As tight as possible while keeping the rings squared correct?

Thanks for the help... I did a quick check on cylinder #5 and 1st ring= .018 and 2nd ring= .027 ....How tight should my gauges be in the gap? As tight as possible while keeping the rings squared correct?

Yes as long as you don't force them in and it sounds like you are good.

Here's a pic of cylinder #7 and #6...#7 is worse than #6...The bore taper on #7 right now is .005 ....I'm going to hone it some more...The pictures make it look worse than what it is in real life....You can't feel any of it with your finger tip..Also thanks for not bashing and actually helping...

The thinnest gauge I have is .0015 and if I tightly put across a flat surface I can definitely feel it and catch my fingernail on it...So the markings are less than .0015 deep....

Here's a pic of cylinder #7 and #6...#7 is worse than #6...The bore taper on #7 right now is .005 ....I'm going to hone it some more...The pictures make it look worse than what it is in real life....You can't feel any of it with your finger tip..Also thanks for not bashing and actually helping...

The thinnest gauge I have is .0015 and if I tightly put across a flat surface I can definitely feel it and catch my fingernail on it...So the markings are less than .0015 deep....

I think it will run for sure but probably just won't be perfect. It doesn't look too bad from here though at least.

The other cylinders look perfect...What I'm afraid of is the rings not sealing properly in #6 and #7 ...Or breakage...Will it make more noise with those areas being the way they are?

I doubt you will have any noise but the rings may wear out faster on these bores as time goies on.

I only know that it won't "help" the rings to be on this finish but they still might cope better than expected.

Once again I'll take some more pics tomorrow..It looks a lil better now...I started to clean the block with some soapy water and got some "flash" type rust on the cylinder walls now and it won't wipe off with mineral spirits and rag..WTF?!?!

yes when you clean a cylinder that happens unless you use anti rust or WD40 right away.

Maybe I'll try some WD40 to take it off rather than using the hone again and making another mess...then having to clean the block meticulously once more...But before I washed the block with the soapy water each time I went clockwise and counterclockwise with the hone I wiped it before the next pass with mineral spirits and it didn't rust...And once more thanks for your replies...

While I was cleaning the block yesterday I noticed this crack...It's on the passenger side down by where the A/C compressor would mount...How concerned should i be about it?

You could have it welded or fused back together but just don't really overtighten that bolt as that's how it cracked probably already

I won't even be using those bolt holes anyways...I've got the high mount A/C kit from Kwik Performance...So it should be good to go? It won't open up into a huge crack like a black hole?? haha


I just checked my main bearing clearances and they are pretty much around .0015 or a lil larger..maybe something like
.0018 is this too tight...it should be fine with using 5W-30 oil right...Although the book I have recommends .0021-.003...

I won't even be using those bolt holes anyways...I've got the high mount A/C kit from Kwik Performance...So it should be good to go? It won't open up into a huge crack like a black hole?? haha


I just checked my main bearing clearances and they are pretty much around .0015 or a lil larger..maybe something like
.0018 is this too tight...it should be fine with using 5W-30 oil right...Although the book I have recommends .0021-.003...

Personally I would open the clearance up a lil bit then to around .0020-.0023 but it would be in stock range. I like stuff to be pretty safe even cold so we run a little more clearance.

Personally I would open the clearance up a lil bit then to around .0020-.0023 but it would be in stock range. I like stuff to be pretty safe even cold so we run a little more clearance.


I read a few different articles that discussed the .0015 clearance and it may be a bit tight but I think it'll do for this build...I don't want to come off like I'm just throwing this thing together...Or that I am satisfied with mediocre
workmanship though...I want it to be a nice reliable engine but I want to put it together myself if you know what I mean...I learn better by doing it myself and I don't know anyone personally that has put a engine together..(other than friends/family back home..But I'm stationed down here in Savannah GA.) Rod clearances are fine and I got the crankshaft/main caps installed today too..Shortblock will be complete tomorrow!!! I dunno when I'll get to crank this sucker up but let's cross our fingers that it doesn't fall apart!!! haha..


Would you think that Total Seal's "Quickseat" would help benefit at all?

Don't really know on the quickseat stuff on that deal. You could ask them but they would probably you had a truely honed cylinder as well!

Don't really know on the quickseet stuff on that deal. You could ask them but they would probably you had a truely honed cylinder as well!

Did you mean to say if I had a truely honed cylinder as well?

I guess there are pros and cons to "soft honing"

Did you mean to say if I had a truely honed cylinder as well?

I guess there are pros and cons to "soft honing"

Not too many pros but you can ask them. It should still get by for you.

After finally assembly even though the rings haven't been seated and the engine never been fired...could I still perform a leak down test to get a idea of how well it's sealing? Or does the engine have to of been broken in to get a proper reading?

After finally assembly if though the rings haven't been seated and the engine never been fired...could I still perform a leak down test to get a idea of how well it's sealing? Or does the engine have to of been broken in to get a proper reading?

You can but it will improve a little after running usually.

I'll try it after I finish putting it together and see what I come up with...Then I could have some numbers to compare to after I finally do get to break it in...