Road Racing - Higher viscosity oil for oil pressures? What oil do you run?

First time at the track since the built motor I noticed oil pressures drop at idle or deceleration to past 30. I've even seen my oil pressure in high teens at idle. I have a digital gauge and run 5W30 Mobil 1 oil. Of course this happens once car has been running a while and temps climb up to 220-230. I asked both Vette guys who have been running the tracks a while, and they as well said they have seen their cars in low 20s or even 19s for oil pressures.

Is this alright or what? Do you guys run thicker oil to fix this? I have no problems getting 30-40 psi at idle when not hot with 5-30. FYI I also run an oil cooler and accusump as well. Accusump doesn't seem to work that well with low pressures, because after the car warms up and I decelerate or keep rpms down and oil drops below 30 psi, it unnecessary dumps oil into the motor. I guess I'll have to run either thicker oil or lower release pressures for the accusump. Just wanted to see what people do with the oil in their track cars, so post up :secret2: :angel:

Your oil temps without an oil cooler are easily reaching 280*F+. You need to run 20W-50 while on the road course & then drain it & change the filter after each track day. Don not leave the 20W-50 in the car while daily driving, it will not thin out enough @ DD oil temps.

I do run an oil cooler, but I guess it still gets very hot.

I do run an oil cooler, but I guess it still gets very hot.

Yes, that's a fact. Unless there is an oil temperature gauge installed, many track day participants don't realize how hot their oil gets during 20 minute sessions of hard driving. It's good that you have an oil cooler. An oil temperature gauge & 20W-50 racing oil on track days will serve you well.

Ya the two vetts saw only about 240-250 oil temps the same day we ran this car.

Valvoline 20W-50 ;)

I'm having the exact same thing with my LS1. Even at idle after coming off the interstate the 35-40 PSI Accusump switch will flicker and it comes on at idle after running on track. So why 20W50? Obviously it's thicker so should create more oil pressure but so what. My original (non-LS) engine would turn on the 5-10 PSI oil pressure idiot light at idle and would run all day long like that. More pressure is not always better. So what facts and data does anyone have to show what the proper viscosity is for an LS motor assuming you have an oil cooler as I and the original poster do so oil temps are not astronomical?

Cameron

First time at the track since the built motor I noticed oil pressures drop at idle or deceleration to past 30. I've even seen my oil pressure in high teens at idle. I have a digital gauge and run 5W30 Mobil 1 oil. Of course this happens once car has been running a while and temps climb up to 220-230. I asked both Vette guys who have been running the tracks a while, and they as well said they have seen their cars in low 20s or even 19s for oil pressures.



M1 5w30 is the worst oil you can use. switch to something that will actually protect your motor and youll instantly see more pressure then with M1. M1 is so thin, and breaks down so fast, id rather use a cup of cold piss then put that in my motor. use GC, and youll see a few more pounds of pressure, right out of the box.

So why 20W50? Obviously it's thicker so should create more oil pressure but so what. My original (non-LS) engine would turn on the 5-10 PSI oil pressure idiot light at idle and would run all day long like that. More pressure is not always better. So what facts and data does anyone have to show what the proper viscosity is for an LS motor assuming you have an oil cooler as I and the original poster do so oil temps are not astronomical?Cameron


It is possible to ask a question without including a dramatic, yet incorrect statement. Are you a chick?

Generally, the viscosity you're looking for is 70. The reason for 20W-50 is the that viscocity will remain near 70 @ road course driving oil temps, not because it reaches some magic oil pressure. However, oil pressure can be an indication of an oil viscocity reduction. Daily driving oils are designed to operate near 70 @ 100*C or 212*F. So, it's not a stretch to understand how oil operating temperatures above 250*F result in reducing the viscocity of daily driving oils.

M1 5w30 is the worst oil you can use. switch to something that will actually protect your motor and youll instantly see more pressure then with M1. M1 is so thin, and breaks down so fast, id rather use a cup of cold piss then put that in my motor. use GC, and youll see a few more pounds of pressure, right out of the box.

Ya cause thats why every cup car I ever worked on ran M1 right cause its so bad. Also most engine builder I worked with would only ask one question when it came time to stand by there motors "What oil are you running in it?" All they wanted to know is that you had M1 in it and they would stand by it.

Where are you getting your info that it is so bad? You know it always ranks up in the top with Amsoil and Red line right? Dont come in here and rant about what you like with out giveing some facts at least.

are you kidding me? you think NASCAR runs off the shelf M1? there have been dozens of tests and results posted on this very site. im not going to do the research for you. patman has posted his own results, and bobistheoilguy.com has even more info on it. where you YOU getting YOUR info that says it ranks up so high? because every review ive read has it ranked BELOW even regular dino oil.

read this and learn. im not going to hold your hand through it.

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/general-lsx-automobile-discussion/1036846-royal-purple-mobil-1-a.html

Oil rivalries are always just a bunch of different opinions I think. Most of top of the line oils will work fine IMO, I just know I need to use 15W50 or 20W50 next time.

Oil rivalries are always just a bunch of different opinions I think. Most of top of the line oils will work fine IMO, I just know I need to use 15W50 or 20W50 next time.


Not really. All oils are not the same. Every different brand of 20W50, is not the same. Mobil 1 maybe used to be the shit back in the day, but not so much in recent years. They have made their oils basically shitty. I forgot which ones, but a couple of them when they reach a certain temperature break down and change viscosity to something thinner. I don't know about you, but when I put an oil in my car, I put it in because of the viscosity rating it has and I expect it to maintain that viscosity, not break down into a thinner viscosity when it gets up to a running temperature..

There is a newer Mobil 1 that I think Patman likes though, can't remember what it is though...maybe he will chime in

But maybe I'm wrong and in the last couple years Mobil 1 stepped it back up...


A lot of the engine builders I know and Nascar West teams I know like the Joe Gibbs fluids

Mobil 1 5W30 Syn. has turned into a 15W20 within 2k hard miles on a LS1. If that doesnt scream breakdown and cheap than I dont know what does.

Use a GOOD purpose engineered oil for racetrack use if you are going to take it to a road course.


Also, saying NASCAR uses Mobil 1 is like saying the car bodies are actually Chevy, Ford, Dodge and Toyota cars you can buy at the dealership.

Amsoil then? I was considering running that oil. I read a lot of good things about it. Also why would you run 20W50 over 15W50? I've done internet research a while back, but if you don't mind throwing some links in to independent study I'd love to check them out.

i autox and track day my TA. i use GC 0w30 with an improved racing oil baffle. i have no oil pressure or breakdown problems.

M1 is not what it used to be. When Exxon bought out Mobile they changed the formula so it is no longer a true group IV PAO synthetic. There was even a lawsuit by competiters that they were false advertising it as a true synth. M1 won though....

I can tell you that years ago Bondurant driving school was was losing LS1's in their vettes and GM recommended running 20w-50 and it fixed thier problems. I agree it is not best for a DD though......

I've run Mobil 1 (5/30 and 10/30), Redline (10/30), Royal Purple (10/30) and currently have a case of Amsoil (0/30) for the next change. None have ever cause a problem with pressure. The 5/30 was just too thin when it came out. After talking to people much more knowledgeable than myself I would avoid M1 for sure. At one point M1 may have been the gold standard, but that time has passed. I think Royal Purple is more marketing hype than substance also and have my own oil analysis to back that up. So I'd say go Redline or Amsoil, but there are plenty of other good oils as well. If you want step up the viscosity 15/50 or 20/50 call a tech line and see what they recommend?

Afterwards get you YOUR oil analyzed, then YOU will have a baseline to work from. Lots of advice gets throw around, but few people seem to actually get the oil analyzed. Do your own analysis and collect your own data. Every engine is different, driving styles, maintenance schedules, driving conditions etc. all have a role in how the oil holds up.

Run an extra quart of oil in the motor for trackdays as well.....helps with starvation.
Get an oil temp gauge on there also, that'll help keep track of operating temps and you'll be able to use that info when going forward with making viscocity changes etc.

Good Luck and have fun.

I've run Mobil 1 (5/30 and 10/30), Redline (10/30), Royal Purple (10/30) and currently have a case of Amsoil (0/30) for the next change. None have ever cause a problem with pressure. The 5/30 was just too thin when it came out. After talking to people much more knowledgeable than myself I would avoid M1 for sure. At one point M1 may have been the gold standard, but that time has passed. I think Royal Purple is more marketing hype than substance also and have my own oil analysis to back that up. So I'd say go Redline or Amsoil, but there are plenty of other good oils as well. If you want step up the viscosity 15/50 or 20/50 call a tech line and see what they recommend?


You have ran a 5W30, 10W30 and going to run 0W30 all in road racing applications or street applications? You also probably still have a stock analog gauge? The problems with pressure I was talking about earlier are on 20 minute hard road course driving, with 5W30 oil. Pressure never goes below 30 for me on the street.

I was going to run Amsoil anyway, and if I run 15W50, would that configuration of oil/viscosity be fine on the motor on the track (road race)? How about on the street?

Why do some of you guys run 0W30? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to select best viscosity and oil possible for what I'm doing.

You have ran a 5W30, 10W30 and going to run 0W30 all in road racing applications or street applications? You also probably still have a stock analog gauge? The problems with pressure I was talking about earlier are on 20 minute hard road course driving, with 5W30 oil. Pressure never goes below 30 for me on the street.

I was going to run Amsoil anyway, and if I run 15W50, would that configuration of oil/viscosity be fine on the motor on the track (road race)? How about on the street?

Why do some of you guys run 0W30? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to select best viscosity and oil possible for what I'm doing.

My car sees a little bit of everything. Mostly autox and some occasional street miles. I have autometer ultra light water temp and oil temp gauges (full sweep electric) and the oil pressure still factory analog gauge. I've never had an issue with pressure on the street or during an autox event or on a track day. My decision to run the 0/30 is based on my own positive experience with other Amsoil products. For my situation (autox and street) I think the 0/30 fits my needs. It will flow well at startup, get up to operating temp quickly and be stable once at temp. If I did more trackdays then I'd lean more in the direction you are to better handle higher temps for extended periods. I have an oil cooler on the car to help keep temps under control and have not seen much more than 250 degrees on a track day and 210/220 at an autox event. Keep in mind that there are trade-offs with everything. As you go up in viscocity you will require more warm up time, cold oil can be just as bad as overheated oil. Street driving in cold weather with a non bypass oil cooler (air flow through type) can keep the oil from getting up to temp, so be careful with that.

My last track day I ran Royal Purple 10/30 and then had it analyzed and while the oil wasn't completely used up it did show signs breaking down and had already sheared. But with 1 trackday (3-20 minute sessions), maybe 1000 street miles and 4 autox events I expected more, especially from an oil that is $7-8/qt. Maybe my expectations were too high?

If you are serious with the trackday thing, get some gauges (oil temp, water temp, oil pressure) on the car so you have good info, get your oil sampled and start gathering YOUR own data, then you can provide good info to Amsoil or Red Line or Joe Gibbs or Schaeffers or Joe Blow or which ever manufacturer you go with. CMC/AIX racers run Accusumps, none of which I have any first hand experience with and don't think would be something you could easily incorporation into a street car.

I am not an authority, this all just from my own experience after seeing/reading other peoples info and paying closer attention to my own situation. There is so much information out there and oil is like religion and politics, it gets tough to sort through it all and find good solid info (look at the M1 debate that broke out above??).

If you want go over to www.FRRAX.com and browse some of those posts. Lots of experienced autox/trackday/road race guys who would share their experiences with you, both good and bad.

Good Luck.

Thanks for the info. FYI I do run accusump, oil cooler and digital gauges, just figuring out which oil to run so it doesn't fail next time even with all these things :nod:
Running time trials is in this car's future.

kukri, look @ this chart; http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html

See how the 5W is near 70 & the 30 is also near 70 (SUS side of chart; SAE engine oil). The 5W (W means winter) is the cold oil viscocity rating. The 30 is the hot oil viscocity rating. See how the 50 is near 90 @ 210*F? Add 50* in oil temp & that 90 is more like 70.

Now imagine running a 30 @ a road course; the 70 becomes more like 45-50 & even lower for guys without true oil temp gauges. You can see why running anything 30 on a road course is not good for the engine.

People run 0W-30 oil because they read it on the internet mostly, but the true advantage is that as long as the 30 in a 0W-30 is actually 30 or even 30+ (German Castrol, Amsoil), then the cold start viscocity is closer to ideal than in a 5W or 10W oil.

Yes, Amsoil is excellent oil.

So basically I'll have to run 15W50 or 20W50 at the track and 0W30 or 10W30 on the street, bad news is that with accusump now instead of changing 6.5 Qts (if I ran the same oil for street and track), now I have to change 9-10 Qts every time. Is that what you do? $70-80 per oil change hurts! But hell, racing these cars hurts the wallet period, why not spend more on oil.

you dont 'have' to run 15w50 or 20w50 at the track. i dont, hundreds of other LS1s dont, and we're all fine.

For piece of mind, and the added protection, probably. If you didn't change grades and ran 0/30 or 5/30, you would probably still be dropping the oil after every track day anyway? It kinda sucks because if you switch grades, the "street oil" would probably still be good as it would see only street miles and the "race oil" should last more than 1 track day so you will constantly be pouring good oil down the drain, or so it would seem anyway.

You could run a better quality street oil, do a track day, then have it analyzed. See how it holds up. This might allow you to run 1 track day and some street miles in between, then change the oil right before your next track day????? Just an idea?

This situation is the curse of a dual purpose car. Asking a car to live and perform in two different environments is always more complex and expensive.

It sounds like you are tracking the car more than just the casual owner. And if you are going to Time Trial the car then you will be pushing the car to the limits as opposed to just tracking the car for fun, where maybe you only go 80% or something. How much street time does the car see? Do you trailer it to the track or drive it to the track? Lets see some pics of this hot rod.

I'm not sure there is a clear cut answer. The safe play is run a better oil, dump it, then refill with street oil. Call a few tech lines, explain to them what you are doing, see what they say.

If you do settle on Amsoil, become a preferred customer. The $20 a year it costs is more than made up for in the savings you will see. (Example: 1 quart of 15/50 Dominator racing oil lists at $11.20/qt., but as preferred customer I pay $8.60/qt.) I buy all my Amsoil stuff online and its on my door step within a day or two.

Good Luck

you dont 'have' to run 15w50 or 20w50 at the track. i dont, hundreds of other LS1s dont, and we're all fine.


Yah, and I usually add a quart of beach sand just make sure that I fit in with the "got away with it crowd." Am always amazed @ how people will completely ignore documented proof over their own fucked up reality....Rock-on! I'm out, have once again read enough nonsense.

For piece of mind, and the added protection, probably. If you didn't change grades and ran 0/30 or 5/30, you would probably still be dropping the oil after every track day anyway? It kinda sucks because if you switch grades, the "street oil" would probably still be good as it would see only street miles and the "race oil" should last more than 1 track day so you will constantly be pouring good oil down the drain, or so it would seem anyway.

You could run a better quality street oil, do a track day, then have it analyzed. See how it holds up. This might allow you to run 1 track day and some street miles in between, then change the oil right before your next track day????? Just an idea?

This situation is the curse of a dual purpose car. Asking a car to live and perform in two different environments is always more complex and expensive.

It sounds like you are tracking the car more than just the casual owner. And if you are going to Time Trial the car then you will be pushing the car to the limits as opposed to just tracking the car for fun, where maybe you only go 80% or something. How much street time does the car see? Do you trailer it to the track or drive it to the track? Lets see some pics of this hot rod.


I could drive it to the track as far as distance is concerned (3-6 hours depending on track), but I always trailer because anything could always brake. When I'm back in town, sometimes I drive it 5 times a week, sometimes just once. Depends on the weather, mood, etc.

Here's video from this last time, every time you see red LEDs come on that's when oil pressure drops below 30psi. Also, Cobra was on Hoosiers and I was trying to keep up on Bridgestones :emb:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Og6i12sc1no&eurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2Fhome.php%3F&feature=player_embedded
This is where brakes and tires start to fail on last lap
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAD197mhXYI

Please pardon my noob driving, only 2nd time road racing.
http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p165/kakri/RX7.jpg

It is a dual purpose car, but it's more important to me that it runs on the track, than on the street, like right now I have to replace all the brakes, it's just sitting there and I don't care until the next event.

First......beautiful car. Second, run the good oil......Don't even try to screw around. Run the "race" oil on the track and the "street" oil on the street. And with the trailer this becomes easier because you can prep the car ahead of time and not have to worry about driving to the track on street oil and doing an oil change at the track etc. etc. (You'll probably end up doing the same with the brake pads as well, dedicated street pads and race pads).

Looking close, that light appears to becoming on while in turns or as you are exiting long sweepers and that probably is a clue that your issue is not only viscosity related, but baffling/windage related, maybe even more so. In the second video that light seems to come on an awful lot? Are you running a stock pan/baffle? stock pan with upgraded baffle? aftermarket pan? Check out www.improvedracing.com for one option on a bolt in baffle, if you don't already have something.

Educate me on the accusump and how it works. When oil pressure goes below some preset pressure it pushes oil into the circuit to restore pressure temporarily? So my question is the accusump coming on at the time the redlight is on (30psi)? Or is the accusump set to kick in at lets say 45psi and is already exhausted by the time the red light is on?

Either way, I'd agree with the others and say run the good oil. Too much invested to take a chance. But I'd also look into the baffling/windage and see if there is something you can do to help that situation if it hasn't already been addressed.

Take care of that car, it is beautiful.

What makes a car go? The engine. What is the life of the engine. The oil.

If its a purpose built track car (which it looks like it is) you better treat that engine right. Get great oil and use it!!!

Thank you for the compliments, I just painted that headlight cover :D

I already run the upgraded baffle from improvedracing. I believe the oil just gets so hot that when I decelerate or at lower than 3-4K rpms it just goes below 30 psi. Higher rpms it's fine. Accusump is set to turn on (3 qt system) when pressure hits 30 psi, so yes when the light comes on. I don't think there are starvation issues I really do think the oil gets really hot. In the beginning light does not come on even on the sweepers, and I know the that I was cornering harder in the beginning of the run due to tires not being over heated yet. Cooler temps got up to 230 on that second run, I got carried away a little bit. This was one of the reasons accusump system didn't work right is oil got too thin and accusump kept dumping unnecessary oil into the motor. I don't think I have starvation issues, but we will find out after I run decent racing oil on track. I guess if the light will keep coming on as often with 20W50, then I have other problems, but so far everything indicates to me that M1 5W30 oil just thins out a lot by the time it gets really hot.

Also I did run race pads (Racingbrake ET800) and from brand new they are almost down to the metal in 90 minutes driving time!!! I do have another thread going on v8rx7 forum regarding brakes though.

I should have been prepared to spend some money racing while building this thing... For every track weekend we have $160 oil (from street to race then from race to street), $200 pads, $50 trans fluid and diff fluid, lol? :)

Why cant you just recycle the street oil? If you arent putting hard miles on it and only going less than 2k miles I really dont see the harm in it if you are running good filtration.

That's a very good point and I was thinking of doing that actually.

Here is my .02. I ran Mobil 1 5W30 in my old LS1, and changed it religiously. The car gets autocrossed heavily and sees some 'aggressive' weekend street driving. This time last year, this is what my engine looked like:

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w108/01badz28/100_1256.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w108/01badz28/100_1255.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w108/01badz28/100_1252.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w108/01badz28/100_1251.jpg

The new motor is running Amsoil 10W30, and I will no longer be using Mobil 1 syn. in a performance application.

i hope you post that up everytime theres an M1 ballwasher bragging about how great an oil it is.

GC 0w30 is more like a 40 weight oil, which is a good thing.

See www.bobistheoilguy.com forums, seriously. Awesome resource. I'd take GC over Amsoil any time ~40 weight oil would be acceptable. But Amsoil is still good stuff.

I already run the upgraded baffle from improvedracing. I believe the oil just gets so hot that when I decelerate or at lower than 3-4K rpms it just goes below 30 psi. Higher rpms it's fine. Accusump is set to turn on (3 qt system) when pressure hits 30 psi, so yes when the light comes on. I don't think there are starvation issues I really do think the oil gets really hot. In the beginning light does not come on even on the sweepers, and I know the that I was cornering harder in the beginning of the run due to tires not being over heated yet. Cooler temps got up to 230 on that second run, I got carried away a little bit.

That doesn't seem right. I was running M1 10W30 with oil cooler, 2q Accusump and the 35-40 PSI switch with NO baffle and the light only comes on at the end of long sweepers and at idle. When it comes on at the track it's only for a second or less. This is pushing hard on full slicks and still it rarely comes on and only for a blip - I believe this is oil starvation in my case when it lights up on track. At idle hot it's always on and cold it flickers at idle. That last video it seemed to be on more than it was off. Based on my experience I think there is something else going on as much as your light is on. Mine is an '02 and I understand there were oil pump changes so I wonder if this has anything to do with it?

PS - I recently switched to Penz Plat 10W30 and noticed no difference what so ever.

Cameron

I literally have thought of everything as far as motor parts go to not have oil issues. I do have shimmed newer oil pump. I'll switch oil and see where it goes. I've got the baffle and everything else I could think of. Motor hasn't been beat on hard either, recently built. Will find out what running different oil does. Redline tech recommended 10W40, but he also said if I'm getting at least 10psi at idle after a run, I'm fine. I'm going to get more info from Amsoil, Katech and maybe more places to see what they say on viscosity of the oil. Maybe motor itself has a lot to do with the oil viscosity, temperature. I don't know what your setup is but I'm running almost 11:1 compression making 465 at the wheels on 12.2 A/F tune. So it's possible that it gets hotter than in your car, quicker. As far as cooling I'm not sure how affective it is in this car versus F-body or Corvette cooling system, either, that could have something to do with it. I did run 5W30 as well comparing to you running 10W30, I don't know how much difference that would be though.

Here is my .02. I ran Mobil 1 5W30 in my old LS1, and changed it religiously. The car gets autocrossed heavily and sees some 'aggressive' weekend street driving. This time last year, this is what my engine looked like:

The new motor is running Amsoil 10W30, and I will no longer be using Mobil 1 syn. in a performance application.

And your saying M1 did this to your motor? Rather then racing it? I'm just not seeing your point here. I dont know of any oil that is going to stop a rod from being pulled apart. That rod jornal still looks pretty good after what it went through.



Also here is all the motor info on his car I did the rebuild on it

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-build-threads/52011-kukri-s-rebuild-thread-sabre002.html

Redline tech recommended 10W40, but he also said if I'm getting at least 10psi at idle after a run, I'm fine. I'm going to get more info from Amsoil, Katech and maybe more places to see what they say on viscosity of the oil. Maybe motor itself has a lot to do with the oil viscosity, temperature. I don't know what your setup is but I'm running almost 11:1 compression making 465 at the wheels on 12.2 A/F tune. So it's possible that it gets hotter than in your car, quicker. As far as cooling I'm not sure how affective it is in this car versus F-body or Corvette cooling system, either, that could have something to do with it. I did run 5W30 as well comparing to you running 10W30, I don't know how much difference that would be though.

Tech recommending 10W40 and 10 PSI is interesting. Mine is bone stock but in a lightweight car (240Z) which could be part of the difference. I dont have an oil temp gauge but water runs 230 consistently give or take and I back off when it gets into the low 230s but that's not necessarily a good indication of oil temp.

Cameron

And your saying M1 did this to your motor? Rather then racing it? I'm just not seeing your point here. I dont know of any oil that is going to stop a rod from being pulled apart. That rod jornal still looks pretty good after what it went through.



Also here is all the motor info on his car I did the rebuild on it

http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx-7-build-threads/52011-kukri-s-rebuild-thread-sabre002.html

I'm posting my personal experience, take from it what you will. The 'racing' involved was lots of second gear only local autocross events - if you think thats fine, more power to you. Motor was also stock compression, no FI, stock rev limiter - you get the point.

I'm posting my personal experience, take from it what you will. The 'racing' involved was lots of second gear only local autocross events - if you think thats fine, more power to you. Motor was also stock compression, no FI, stock rev limiter - you get the point.

No I dont get your point we all know the stock rods even in stock trim are the weak point. That is mine. I just dont see how you can say that racing it was not a contributing factor in your stock motors demise rather than your oil choice. I have tore down a hand full of motors like that and you can tell when the oil or lack there of was the cause and it always shows it at the rod bearings. It is the tightest clearance in the motor.

I have seen quite a few stock LS1’s have issues and on the other had I have seen stock ones take 200 hits. Sometimes you’re lucky, others you’re not.

I literally have thought of everything as far as motor parts go to not have oil issues. I do have shimmed newer oil pump. I'll switch oil and see where it goes. I've got the baffle and everything else I could think of. Motor hasn't been beat on hard either, recently built. Will find out what running different oil does. Redline tech recommended 10W40, but he also said if I'm getting at least 10psi at idle after a run, I'm fine. I'm going to get more info from Amsoil, Katech and maybe more places to see what they say on viscosity of the oil. Maybe motor itself has a lot to do with the oil viscosity, temperature. I don't know what your setup is but I'm running almost 11:1 compression making 465 at the wheels on 12.2 A/F tune. So it's possible that it gets hotter than in your car, quicker. As far as cooling I'm not sure how affective it is in this car versus F-body or Corvette cooling system, either, that could have something to do with it. I did run 5W30 as well comparing to you running 10W30, I don't know how much difference that would be though.

Let us know how you make out with the other recommendations and your results on track. What size lines did you plumb your cooler/accusump with? Use good full flow fittings to limit restriction? What cooler are you running? I doubt you cut any corners on this stuff given the rest of car, just kind of thinking out loud, that's all.

Chris

Let us know how you make out with the other recommendations and your results on track. What size lines did you plumb your cooler/accusump with? Use good full flow fittings to limit restriction? What cooler are you running? I doubt you cut any corners on this stuff given the rest of car, just kind of thinking out loud, that's all.

Chris

Chris,

The Lines are all -10 stuff with full open swivel Eral's fittings. The oil cooler is a factory Mazda RX7 unit in the stock location. As seen here are the ports into the cooler it self that would have to be the smallest port size in the system.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Progress%20pics%20RX7/IMG_6913.jpg

These are the dual coolers that come in the R1 we used one for oil and one for power steering in my car. Roman's car has just the oil cooler casue it has no PS
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Progress%20pics%20RX7/IMG_6911.jpg

Here is the full accusump and plumbing setup on his car.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Progress%20pics%20RX7/IMG_6913.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb03_0006.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb03_0012.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb17_0002.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb17_0001.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb17_0001_0001.jpg
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h44/Sabre002/Romans%20build/Feb17_0003.jpg

When the Accusump in turned on the oil pressure responce in instant to the gauge. The sender is in the factory location at the rear of the block so it does have a good distance to travel.

Also wonder if you got the wrong switch and it's really the 55-60 PSI one?

Cameron

I dont think so cause you can have the system on at idle and the pressue in the accusump will not move. Cause it will be charged at about 60PSI from the fill process.

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I got to talk with Jason at Katech today. He told me about what I thought he would. On the street he said to run Mobil 1 5W-30. Then for the track to run 15W-50 Mobil 1 as well. He said that they use it in everything from his car to the C6R race car engines. He said as far as he knows M1 is still a full synthetic and has not heard anything to make him think other wise.

I think I'm going to stick with what works for me here and stay with the M1 and a Wix filter. Also the pressures he said are right on the money with any LS1 on a track day but said to step it up to 15W50 to deal with the heat a little better.

Is Mobil 1 his sponsor?


Do some research for yourself on the Mobil 1 5W30 and you'll change your mind on that particular weight. So far, all Ive read says that is the ONLY one that has been affected by the bean counters to make it cheaper while keeping the price on it the same.

They are just the Engine builders for the cars Pratt and Miller is the race team with the sponsor. So I dont belive they have M1 as a sponsor but I did not ask him that.

I have been looking up all these clams and have not come across anything to support this talk about M1. Even looked around on the oil guys website. I mean where are you guy getting this?


I also ran Mobil 1 10W30 in my 24 hour of lemons car and had no issue at all. Just kept up on oil consumption and nothing went wrong. Changed the filter for day two and kept trucking.

Ya cause thats why every cup car I ever worked on ran M1 right cause its so bad.


Are you saying they run off-the-shelf Mobil-1 5W-30, or that the bottle said "Mobil-1" on it?

Exxon-Mobil has a very spiffy racing lubricant program whose products bear little/no resemblance to the stuff we get at the parts store. It's unlikely that Cup teams were using plain old 5W-30, but you seem to have firsthand knowledge so please clue us in.

It is fact that Bondurant's school runs Mobil-1 15W-50 in their LSx engines, and they've been doing it for years rather than 5W-30.

Are you saying they run off-the-shelf Mobil-1 5W-30, or that the bottle said "Mobil-1" on it?

Exxon-Mobil has a very spiffy racing lubricant program whose products bear little/no resemblance to the stuff we get at the parts store. It's unlikely that Cup teams were using plain old 5W-30, but you seem to have firsthand knowledge so please clue us in.

It is fact that Bondurant's school runs Mobil-1 15W-50 in their LSx engines, and they've been doing it for years rather than 5W-30.

if he really worked on a cup car youd think hed know that already. in almost every top level form of racing, they use specific racing oil. the oil doesnt HAVE a cold rating, as in 5w30. the oil never gets cold. they use oil/fluid warmers before the car even starts. thats what those big tool box looking things are behing the cup cars when theyre waiting on the grid. the hoses coming in and out of them run to the oil, water, and trans fluids. what they run is probably something like a straight 50 weight. im sure the oil never sees temps below 150, so it doesnt need a cold weight at all.

Now the teams have moved to Joe gibs racing oil. This was part because it was developed for them to start. Yes I know without a shadow of a doubt on the hooters car I bought 15W50 from the store and put it in the race car myself.

As for when I was at Roush we had M1, 55 gal barrels I did not get to inspect them much. As for the heaters they are built into the car them self now. The oil tank has the coils in it. But you seem to know more from watching TV then I do don’t ya.

Just because you have a hard on for M1, and keep telling people to do their own homework. Which I did as you suggested. I could find nothing backing up your clams so how about present them if you would. I would like to be informed here about anything you can pull up. Something a little more specific than a full forum this time please.

I'll post fully cited references if you'll bring your spelling up to the 8th grade level. Deal?

And speaking of specifics, what spec was the "M1" in the barrels? Was it 5W-30 street oil?

You're trying to say that because race teams buy an unspecified Mobil-1 product, all Mobil-1 products are of the same quality.

You either:

1.) don't know which Mobil-1 oil the team was buying, or
2.) are making this up as you go along, or
3.) haven't gotten around to telling us yet.


Now the teams have moved to Joe gibs racing oil. This was part because it was developed for them to start. Yes I know with out a shadow of a drought on the hooters car I bought 15W50 from the store and put it in the race car myself.

As for when I was at Roush we had M1 55 gal barrels I did not get to inspect them much. As for the heaters they are built into the car them self now. The oil tank has the coils in it. But you seem to know more from watching TV then I do don’t ya.

Just because you have a hard on for M1, and keep telling people to do there own homework, witch I did as you suggested. I could find nothing backing up your clames so how about present them if you would. I would like to be informed here about anything you can pull up. Something a little more specific then a full forum this time please.

I'll post fully cited references if you'll bring your spelling up to the 8th grade level. Deal?

And speaking of specifics, what spec was the "M1" in the barrels? Was it 5W-30 street oil?

You're trying to say that because race teams buy an unspecified Mobil-1 product, all Mobil-1 products are of the same quality.

You either:

1.) don't know which Mobil-1 oil the team was buying, or
2.) are making this up as you go along, or
3.) haven't gotten around to telling us yet.

I'm not here to argue with you about my spelling or what I do I'm here for info so if you are going to attack me and not post info don’t come into this thread.

I just said if you would read my last post I did not get to inspect the barrels at Roush. But you must have missed that. As I said before I bought the oil for the hooters team I worked at and it was Mobil 1 15W50 from car quest. I don’t know how to say that any simpler.

Can we get past the point that we don’t agree on oils and start posting info. Or are we going to bitch all day about what each likes best for no reason. We already know the other guy likes his cold piss over M1 what’s your story.

Everyone I talk to outside of this site keeps telling me to use M1 15W50 for the track. from engine builders, LS1 tuners, road race builders.

No I dont get your point we all know the stock rods even in stock trim are the weak point. That is mine. I just dont see how you can say that racing it was not a contributing factor in your stock motors demise rather than your oil choice. I have tore down a hand full of motors like that and you can tell when the oil or lack there of was the cause and it always shows it at the rod bearings. It is the tightest clearance in the motor.

I have seen quite a few stock LS1’s have issues and on the other had I have seen stock ones take 200 hits. Sometimes you’re lucky, others you’re not.

I run M1 in my LS1. She took a 250 shot (on accident), and about 3 full bottles of 150 shot. Sold the spray, and run 404rwhp cam only now. I've raced just about every weekend for the past 1.5 years, car still pulls strong. This car is my DD as well...