Generation IV Internal Engine - Need some help on a LS2 Stroker setup.

A little background I used to have a 89 ws6 formula, 94 ta, 98 ws6...
Grew up (as much as one can) and have a family so it was time to purchase a 4 door.

I bought a 2008 G8 GT 6.0L auto with the l76 engine. I know I posted for an LS2 stroker setup, but its the same block just bored slightly under 3.988 I believe. It will get bored when its stroked anyways...

Current mods are kooks mid length,corsa cat back, rotofab CAI, livernois stage 1 l92 dod delete cam setup, valve job on the l92 heads, ported l76 intake, and udp...
I'm making 427rwhp and 397rwtq.

I like the power, but I need (want) more under 4000 rpm.

I have been debating on the tvs1900/2300 maggie or a NA setup, but I just think its a waste to only run 6-7 psi and thats all I can run since I milled the heads. And yeah andy at livernois told me not to mill the heads and up the compression to 10.8 if I wanted to go FI, but I thought I'd be happy with the cammed setup.

I also don't like the fact that I'd need to run a BAP and no one has come out with a production twin in tank setup for our cars yet.

My main concern is I do NOT want it to surge or require a higher stall converter. My stage 1 only surges on the 2 to 1 downshift right now... its the stupid rev matching making it surge with the elevated idle...

So with that said I'm thinking about building a stroker setup and seeing if I like that and if I decide later i could always add FI.

With that said...

1. Go with a standard 402 stroker kit (bore out to the std. ls2 bore).

2. Darton dry sleeve to a 427 or 440 stroker.

3. skip the ls2 altogether and run a 427 ls3 (this car is heavy as is 4000lb not going the lsx 454 route)

Obviously 1 is the cheapest... ( money is a factor I want to keep it under 6-7k)

Are there any disadvantages to the darton sleeve method? From what I've read on here the new sleeves have a lip and don't have the issue of falling anymore.

I'm really thinking going with enough ci and a medium cam that I could have a good idle with a bunch of torque down low.

I'd like to see 500+ NA at the wheels. To do that on the 402, I think I would have to have it cam (lots of lope) pretty hard and need a higher stall converter.

With a 427 or 440 setup, I should be able to hit the 500+ mark (550 would be nice though) I woulld think fairly easy and have the torque I'm looking for. All while maintaining a good idle and the stock converter.

I'm not the type of person that has to have more power than the next guy as there will also be someone with more... I'd just like to get the bottom end w/o adding a high stall converter.

What do you think would be my best bet?

Keep in mind this is a DD that I put over 20k miles on just going to work last year.

Thanks,

Michael

If you want to stay in your budget a 402 can get you the hp you want and more, then if you need to you can take it to a 408 down the road. We made 575 rwhp on 93pump out of a 402 runs 10.23 in the 1/4 all motor. I can help let me know.

If you want to stay in your budget a 402 can get you the hp you want and more, then if you need to you can take it to a 408 down the road. We made 575 rwhp on 93pump out of a 402 runs 10.23 in the 1/4 all motor. I can help let me know.

boring an alum ls2 block .030 would be pretty fooish.if you want to get work off of this site i suggest you become a sponsor like the rest of us.

If you want to stay in your budget a 402 can get you the hp you want and more, then if you need to you can take it to a 408 down the road. We made 575 rwhp on 93pump out of a 402 runs 10.23 in the 1/4 all motor. I can help let me know.
i'd like some details on that if you please. i'm at the beginning of rebuilding right now...

boring an alum ls2 block .030 would be pretty fooish.if you want to get work off of this site i suggest you become a sponsor like the rest of us.

I didn't say anything about trying to sell them a motor. I only offered some info. A n/a ls2 will live just fine @ .030 with a clean tuneup.

Shawn can you respond to my post then and help a brother out?

Just looking for info...

I would have to run a good size cam to get the power numbers I'm looking for in a 402.

I want this to be a daily driver with no surging or bucking on a stock torque converter.

The cam I have now on a 364 is 224/230 114 and for my 6.0 thats as big as I would go...

How much bigger of a cam could I run w/o running risk of surging on a stock converter?

you can by the harrop twine pump in tank fuel system ready to drop IN EXCHANGE for a ve ss so would be the same AS G8GT but about $3000 AUSD

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I didn't say anything about trying to sell them a motor. I only offered some info. A n/a ls2 will live just fine @ .030 with a clean tuneup.

whatever dude-been down this road too many times

Shawn builds great motors! he can give you some great advice!

Shawn can you respond to my post then and help a brother out?

Just looking for info...

I would have to run a good size cam to get the power numbers I'm looking for in a 402.

I want this to be a daily driver with no surging or bucking on a stock torque converter.

The cam I have now on a 364 is 224/230 114 and for my 6.0 thats as big as I would go...

How much bigger of a cam could I run w/o running risk of surging on a stock converter?


500hp though an auto with a small cam will take a pretty good size engine and some decent heads,i personally would build a 427 using an ls7 block and some well ported l92/ls3 heads.This will make plenty of low end tq,plenty of hp-i would still look at getting a mild converter-the stock converter will not hold as much hp as an aftermarket unit.

I probably read too much on here and I'm sure some info is credible while other info is not, but I'm going to ask none the less...

Why a ls7 over a ls3 418 or 427 if its strictly an NA setup? just cylinder wall thickness? I read that some ls7's were having cylinder wall cracking issues, but they were higher hp setups.

Wouldn't I have to swap over to a dry sump setup in order for that to work?

How much power do you think a stock converter behind a 6l80 can take before we start running into issues?

Thanks for the help shawn.

I probably read too much on here and I'm sure some info is credible while other info is not, but I'm going to ask none the less...

Why a ls7 over a ls3 418 or 427 if its strictly an NA setup? just cylinder wall thickness? I read that some ls7's were having cylinder wall cracking issues, but they were higher hp setups.

Wouldn't I have to swap over to a dry sump setup in order for that to work?

How much power do you think a stock converter behind a 6l80 can take before we start running into issues?

Thanks for the help shawn.

yes there is alot of good info,but alot of bad as well.

from what i gathered from you,you want to low maintenance combo that will not burn oil,last along time and make tons of power.the 418 will fall a little short of your goals,an ls3 427 with the long stroke leaves for a bad rod to stroke ratio as well as a short piston-some guys will argue this fact,but the short piston allows the piston to rock more in the bore,when the piston rocks it allows combustion gases to enter the crankcase as well as oil to enter the combustion chamber-causing blowby and oil consumption.the longer stroke also causes more side loading of the cylinders causing them to wear out faster.the only ls7 liners i have seen crack are usually when the pistons break due to detonation-the factory ls7 is a tricky piece to tune and many guys have broken them due to detonation,we have made well over 1000hp with ls7 blocks with no issues.the other benefit of using the ls7 block is the bigger bore,this allows the heads to flow more-making more hp.
when building a motor using an ls7 block,if you use a std crank,you can use the std wet sump oiling system found in the rest of the ls engines

i can't actually say what the 6l80 converter will hold.

Thanks shawn I really appreciate the info.

no problem