Generation IV Internal Engine - Loud Ticking noise from TSP LS2 402

Hey everyone I am kind of dumbfounded by this ticking I am getting from my motor, It is loud enough that I am hearing it over my blower at idle, but once I rev the motor it does not get louder or follow the rpm, it goes away. I stethed all over the motor and the only place I can hear the noise is from the water pump outlet. I took off the belt and still the same. Anyone have any ideas on what it could be or had the same problem?

Thanks
Brian

im no expert but i have read that if it goes away with revs it is usually lifter related. if it increases when reved it could possible be valve train or rod bearing etc.

Yeah Im beginning to think it is lifter related.

probly just valvetrain noise... my car does it also, i wouldnt worry to much about it buddy unless it begins to get louder

Did you assemble the long-block or did we? What lifters are you running? What kind of oil pressure do you see at idle (cold and warm) as well as at RPM (cool and warm)?

Did you assemble the long-block or did we? What lifters are you running? What kind of oil pressure do you see at idle (cold and warm) as well as at RPM (cool and warm)?

I assembled the long block, I used ls7 lifters, oil pressure is about 3/4 on stock gauge when cold, then drops to right above 1/2 when warm at idle,

I assembled the long block, I used ls7 lifters, oil pressure is about 3/4 on stock gauge when cold, then drops to right above 1/2 when warm at idle,

How much preload did you put on the lifters, assuming you measured for pushrod length? Did you shim your windage tray down to get it away from the aftermarket crank and rods??

How much preload did you put on the lifters, assuming you measured for pushrod length? Did you shim your windage tray down to get it away from the aftermarket crank and rods??

I shimmed the windage tray, Nate @ Nasty did the preload and did the ordering and install of the pushrods, for I have never checked for length.

And it doesn't follow the RPM of the engine??

And it doesn't follow the RPM of the engine??

No, sounds good when you get the motor off of idle, and throttle response is good

So the ticking stays the same and doesn't get faster when you put some revs on it? Just trying to make sure I'm on the same page...diagnosing this stuff is tough over the web :)

sounds like a lifter to me, my car is doing the same thing and in my case its a bad lifter but i'm lt1 so i don't have to pull the heads.

So the ticking stays the same and doesn't get faster when you put some revs on it? Just trying to make sure I'm on the same page...diagnosing this stuff is tough over the web :)

When you Rev it, you can't hear it, the motor sounds good... I hear yeah on trying to diagnose over the internet. :)

Hmmm...tough one. Might check with Nate and see if he has record of what the preload was when he set it up. Could definitely be lifter tick, and the extra oil pressure under some revs clearing it up.

Hmmm...tough one. Might check with Nate and see if he has record of what the preload was when he set it up. Could definitely be lifter tick, and the extra oil pressure under some revs clearing it up.

If the preload is not correct, could you see this being the problem, what's the chances of that ruining the lifters?

The GM lifters are versatile enough that USUALLY too much or too little preload will not ruin them, rather they'll just be too noisy.

The GM lifters are versatile enough that USUALLY too much or too little preload will not ruin them, rather they'll just be too noisy.

I'm gonna check it out tomorrow, what should the preload be on those lifters?

Thanks for the help
Brian

LS7 lifters should be setup from about .040-.080" preload.

I have had a texas speed camshaft in a 402 that they put together and from the water pump area i head a noise as well. But it was more of a chirp comeing from the engine at idle but would go away with engine speed.... if this help i dont know but thought i would chime in. I talked around with a few people and they said the profile of the camshaft can make some weird engine noise though the intake... hope this helps.

i had a LOUD ticking comin from my TSP ls2 402, sounded like it was coming from the top-end, after further inspection, my crank pulley was seperating from itself, so just for shits and giggles start your car and keep an eye on that pulley.

Ok, I am gonna go get a pushrod length checker, but I found something interesting, I can turn the pushrods on the valves that are closed, is that normal, or is that a indicator of to small of pushrod lengths?

Ok, I am gonna go get a pushrod length checker, but I found something interesting, I can turn the pushrods on the valves that are closed, is that normal, or is that a indicator of to small of pushrod lengths?


To short. Not enough preload.

Follow Matt's advice on the pushrod length & preload....it is the last thing I do with a build is measure for proper preload and then pick the correct length. Rarely is what the cam manufacturer recomends the correct length. :thumb:

Ok, I am gonna go get a pushrod length checker, but I found something interesting, I can turn the pushrods on the valves that are closed, is that normal, or is that a indicator of to small of pushrod lengths?

Definitely too short. I have a method posted here: See post #3... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1193117-my-lifter-bad-pushrods-too-big.html

You don't need a length checker. It sounds like you are right a zero lash and your pushrods are .025"-.050" too short. Since you have a known length pushrod you can use the method above to get the correct length.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Yep to short!

Definitely too short. I have a method posted here: See post #3... http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1193117-my-lifter-bad-pushrods-too-big.html

You don't need a length checker. It sounds like you are right a zero lash and your pushrods are .025"-.050" too short. Since you have a known length pushrod you can use the method above to get the correct length.

Hope this helps.

Shane

Well I just took one of my pushrods out and it is a 7.4

I removed the 7.4s and installed one with one rocker arm, and at first I could not turn it with my fingers then once I torqued it two 22 ft lbs and checked it again, I could turn it. is it normal for the lifter to decompress like that? and would that still indicate not enough preload, trying to get ahold of a 8" caliper so i can measure the checker and add preload, but from what i am seeing it looks like I will need a 7.425 or 7.450

7.450 would be on the money. Try that and see if the noise goes away.

Also, are you saying that once the motor is warm you're seeing between 10-20psi oil pressure?

If so, that seems awful low. Did you put in the higher pressure spring in your oilpump? I like to see around 30-40 psi warm at idle. What weight oil are you running?