Stereo & Electronics - paging Rogue Leader, sub ?

Just chked out rock fos web site and they do not currently have a 6.5 sub listed. Any other suggestions on replacement for the factory subs?

Just chked out rock fos web site and they do not currently have a 6.5 sub listed. Any other suggestions on replacement for the factory subs?


ya check the above thread theres some suggestions... Maybe ebay has the rockford otehrwise they are disco :( ..

Kicker RMB6

JL 6w0

I have heard the 6w0 wont work unless you seal the sail panel? Is this true? Also how would I wire this in, as I plan to get some this weekend. Will it just be plug in and go, or what?

Fry

If you were able to totally seal up the body cavity behind the factory speaker airtight, the stock sub 6.5"s are 2Ohm. The JL 6W0's are 4 Ohm. It would work, but the JL's would be recieving 1/2 the power that the stockers were using. I believe for the amout of $$, pain and frustration you will expend replacing the subs in the factory locations, it would be a lot easier doing a single 8",10" or 12" in the driver's side cubby storage area, and a small amp bridged to it. the hatch also nets you some additional loudness at sub frequencies.

although they may be a little on the expensive side, check these out....they're specifically stated to be "free-air capable":

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=%22kicker+RMB6%22&btnG=Search+Froogle

and they're rated from 30Hz - 500Hz, so they should play low enough to be used as subwoofers

Ah, yes, the RMB6, I'm using the RMB8 in my front doors for midbass, But those are still 4 ohm speakers, and they aren't very effecient.
If you REALLY want to do this, running off the factory amp, I would try to find:
A speaker that:
1- Is 6.5" Diameter
2- has a sensitivity of at least 90dB SPL 1W/1M
3- Has powerhandling of at least 50WRMS
4- Either single 2 ohm voice coil, or dual 4 Ohm voice coil.
5- "Free-air" or "Infinite-baffle" capability

Ah, yes, the RMB6, I'm using the RMB8 in my front doors for midbass, But those are still 4 ohm speakers, and they aren't very effecient.
If you REALLY want to do this, running off the factory amp, I would try to find:
A speaker that:
1- Is 6.5" Diameter
2- has a sensitivity of at least 90dB SPL 1W/1M
3- Has powerhandling of at least 50WRMS
4- Either single 2 ohm voice coil, or dual 4 Ohm voice coil.
5- "Free-air" or "Infinite-baffle" capability

well, you could always remove the full-range speakers in the hatch area, and get 2 pairs of the RMB6's, put one pair in the sails and one pair in the stock hatch locations, wired in parallel with each other....that will get you your 2ohms, plus twice the cone area for extra bass.

then just replace the speakers up front with a good 6.5" component set minus the crossover (with a capacitor in-line with the tweeter to keep it from blowing...or maybe just use the crossover with only the tweeter hooked up to it). run the midrange speaker off the front channel of the amp, and extend the wiring from the original full-range hatch speakers back up to the front, and put a 4" or 5.25" component set in the kicks running off that.

NO FAIR!! Your'e thinking out of the box! hehe. ;) Good suggestion 02Z28LS1 (member.php?u=24442), might be a little under-powered tho, but an aftermarket amp could cure that down the road.

yeah, there's no question that you could do a lot better with an amp or two, but for people that don't wanna go through the hassle of buying a new head unit, 1 or 2 amps, on top of all the speakers, plus all the patch cables, speaker wiring, etc., this is a good way to upgrade to a lot better sound, with minimal expense and additional weight. ;)

not to mention, this will also keep it stealth!

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190612

Can someone give me some info on my other post. The auctions that I want on ebay die in 2 days so I need input asap.

Thanks