Stereo & Electronics - Need help building whole stereo system -- I'm pissed !

Hi all,

I'm pissed @ my Monsoon system and its speakers... now the left ones are dead, and I feel like ripping the whole thing out and see how it'll survive the fall from my balcony (11th floor).

if you guys were to build a system, with great components... what would it be ?
I know nothing about this... and I want to do it only once, and do it right.
I want great sound quality... and I know quality has a price.
For now, no sub, but later, I can always get a sub if I ever want to... I don't like the boum-boum, plus I have a vert, and the spare tire location is already used for nitrous.

Which brand speakers are the best for music quality ? (I heard Boston are good)
Are Alpine HU good units ? (I've always had a weakness towards Alpine)
Which brand of amp is good for low distortion ?
I'm willing to ditch around 2000-2500$.
Anyways... please help me.
I'm thinking on going with the following... and would like to get your opinion on it... if it'll make a good system.

OK, reading a bit, I'm getting to like the following from what I read... but for the little I know, I need your help.
Amp:
Eclipse PA5532 (http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/amp/amp.html#PA5532)
http://www.eclipse-web.com/products/amp/images/pa5532_img.jpg

125W × 4 Channel + 460W × 1 Channel Max. Power Output at 2 Stereo
70W × 4 Channel + 280W × 1 Channel 0.1% THD at 2 Stereo, 20– 20,000Hz@13.8V (RMS Continuous Power)
50W × 4 Channel + 200W × 1 Channel 0.1% THD at 4W Stereo, 20– 20,000Hz@13.8V (RMS Continuous Power)
ChannelFlex Crossover
Adjustable High-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 50–200Hz) for Front & 120Hz (Fix) for Rear Independently
Adjustable Low-Pass Crossover (12dB/octave, 50–200Hz)
Free-Flow Signal Circuit
Double-Sided PCB
High-Current, High-Speed Output Devices
High-Efficiency, High-Energy MOSFET Power Supply
Audiophile Grade Component Selection
Intelligent 7-Way Discrete Protection Circuitry
Music Reproduction with Low Distortion & Ultra-Low Negative Feedback
Efficient Cooling with Low-Profile Heatsink
Multi-Mode Configuration
Stereo/Mono Switch
2 Stable Design
$400

Speakers (front):
Boston Pro60 (http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=296&CategoryID=14)
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/images/2x2/Pro60.JPG

6½" copolymer cone woofer with neodymium magnet 1½-inch voice coil
RadiaVent® cooling and Twinstage™ heat sink for increased power handling
Cast aluminum woofer basket
1" Type-M2 anodized alloy dome tweeter with slim AMD™
Separable and dockable crossovers
VariMount™ adapter rings allow for fast installation
Axis-, flush-, and angle-mount tweeter mounting kit
$600

Speakers (rear):
Boston Pro50 (http://www.bostonacoustics.com/ca_product.asp?ProductID=297&CategoryID=14)
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/images/2x2/Pro50.JPG

5¼" copolymer cone woofer with neodymium magnet 1½-inch voice coil
RadiaVent® cooling and Twinstage™ heat sink for increased power handling
Cast aluminum woofer basket
1" Type-M2 anodized alloy dome tweeter with slim AMD™
Separable and dockable crossovers
VariMount™ adapter rings allow for fast installation
Axis-, flush-, and angle-mount tweeter mounting kit
$600

Still undecided on HU... some Alpine.

which HU you think I should use ?

CDA-9835 (http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9835&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10):
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/img/asb/cda-9835.gif
CDA-9833 (http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9833&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10):
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/img/asb/cda-9833.gif
CDA-9831 (http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9831&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10):
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/img/asb/cda-9831.gif
CDA-9820XM (http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9820XM&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10) (might be too flashy):
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/img/asb/cda-9820xm.gif
CDA-9827 (http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/pls/admn/item_info?p_item_name=CDA-9827&p_category=10&p_subcategory=20&p_main=10):
http://iweb.alpine-usa.com/img/asb/cda-9827.gif


since I want good quality, I figure the best place to put the $ is on the speakers, provided a good HU and amp is there.
So what you guys think ?
Also, which is better, the Boston Pro60 and Pro50 series, or the MB-Quart QSD-216 and QSD-213 ?
the price is pretty much the same.

Thanks for all those who reply. :)

Actually, from what I've been reading, I should put 6.5" speakers in front and rear... am I right ? if so, I'll get the same speakers in the back as in the front.

Actually, from what I've been reading, I should put 6.5" speakers in front and rear... am I right ? if so, I'll get the same speakers in the back as in the front.
I have alpine speakers in my car, type s, and they are getting 80 watts each from my JBL amp. Boston speakers are good but i think focals, are the best by by far. But with focaLS YOU WILL PAY THE PRICE OF QUALITY. I have 6 1/2 in speakers up front and 6x9's in the middle, you wont need those shitty rear speakers at all. I agree with alpine HU, they are some of the very best. As far as an amp goes, JL, Extant,eclipse are good but the amp doesnt have to be really expensive. I have heard systems similar to mine where people have much more expensive amps and their sound quality isnt any better than mine. (IMO) I installed my system my self and love my alpine IVA-D300 HU more then anything in the car. I have MTX 10" 8000 series sub in a large ported box, pushed by a MTX4250D mono block with alpine type S speakers and JBL amp. Let me know if i can answer any questions for you.

Get your favorite Alpine head unit that includes active crossovers.
Get this amp for your front stage:
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=MK470
Get LPG 25nfa tweets (solen has them cheapest) http://www.solen.ca
Get the Dynaudio MW160 here:
http://www.speakersound.com/index.html?loadfile=catalog24_1.html
Sub amp: JL 500/1, Xtant 301A, Zapco Ref 350, PG Titanium Series...
Sub: 10" OZ Audio Martix Elite in Passenger side Subthump box.
Forget about rear fill.
Spend the rest of the money on the install. Sound deaden, power distribution.

I have alpine speakers in my car, type s, and they are getting 80 watts each from my JBL amp. Boston speakers are good but i think focals, are the best by by far. But with focaLS YOU WILL PAY THE PRICE OF QUALITY. I have 6 1/2 in speakers up front and 6x9's in the middle, you wont need those shitty rear speakers at all. I agree with alpine HU, they are some of the very best. As far as an amp goes, JL, Extant,eclipse are good but the amp doesnt have to be really expensive. I have heard systems similar to mine where people have much more expensive amps and their sound quality isnt any better than mine. (IMO) I installed my system my self and love my alpine IVA-D300 HU more then anything in the car. I have MTX 10" 8000 series sub in a large ported box, pushed by a MTX4250D mono block with alpine type S speakers and JBL amp. Let me know if i can answer any questions for you.I have a convertible... so I don't have those 6x9s in the back.
I rather pay the price, but have quality.

Get your favorite Alpine head unit that includes active crossovers.
Get this amp for your front stage:
http://www.infinitecaraudio.com/cgi-bin/icastore.cgi?user_action=detail&catalogno=MK470
Get LPG 25nfa tweets (solen has them cheapest) http://www.solen.ca (http://www.solen.ca/)
Get the Dynaudio MW160 here:
http://www.speakersound.com/index.html?loadfile=catalog24_1.html
Sub amp: JL 500/1, Xtant 301A, Zapco Ref 350, PG Titanium Series...
Sub: 10" OZ Audio Martix Elite in Passenger side Subthump box.
Forget about rear fill.
Spend the rest of the money on the install. Sound deaden, power distribution.As for sound deathening... that's another winter-project I have in mind... but won't have time this winter to do it.

You guys talking about no need to get rear fill... I assume you mean no need for rear tweeters, right ?

So what you guys suggest ?
front: Vocals... should I go with 3 channel or 2 channel only (will the 3-channel fit in the door ?)... like 165W3
rear: I could get something like just a 6.5" Midrange such as the Focal Audiom 6W

Later, I can always get an extra amp to frive a sub, if I feel like I need the extra bass... but being a convertible, I have no clue where to put the sub so that it's efficient and I don't want any boum-boum... I hate that vibration and sound it creates.
I can get 1 small subs like these and put them on the little piece separating the trunk and cabinet... I would actually build something for that.

so if I get the
front: Focal 165W3 ($950)
rear: Focal Audiom 6W ($180)
sub: 27WX... should be more than enough bass, knowing myself ($570)
that's $1700 for all speakers.
amp: Eclipse PA5532 should be enough ($400)
hu: Alpine CDA-9835 ($430)

total: $2500
I can bring it down to $2000 if I get:
Alpine CDA-9827 ($230) instead
Focal 165W ($630)

You guys talking about no need to get rear fill... I assume you mean no need for rear tweeters, right ?


Rear fill means ANY speakers behind you. 99% of sound quality systems will have 1 pair of high quality mids/highs either in the kick panels, or front doors to create a accurate sound stage. Speakers mounted behind the listener can pull the front soundstage backwards, destroying any illusion of the band playing in front of you, like at a concert, which is the goal in a SQ system. Spend your money on some high-quality mids/highs in the front, makbe some kick panels, and amplifier power. Some links to help you with your research:

http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl
http://stevebrownuniversity.com/sbu/carAudio/default.htm#
http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi/
http://www.bcae1.com/

I recommend you do a lot of research and learning before you spend your hard earned money. You might end up buying a system that you don't like after learning more about car audio. Good luck with your system! :)

i've been slowly buying stuff for my system with sound quality in mind. (i also want it to get loud, but not at the expense of quality...)

got an alpine 7998 headunit, $230 off of crutchfields scratch and dent (open box). although i didnt know at the time that only 2004 alpines would work with an ipod...

for front stage i have cdt audio ef61cf 6.5 components with the cdt image inhancement kit, just under $300 total and from what i hear they are a great product. i'm on the fence on putting some 6.5" in the sail panels, if i do i'll cross them over for midbass and utilize the alpines time correction to keep everything up front.

sound deadening from elemental designs, 60ft of v1 matt and 3 gallons of v3 liquid, $230

complete wiring package (30 pounds of it...) from knuconcepts, $300 (1/0 power/ground, 4gauge power/ground to amps, rca's, dist blocks, terminals, etc)

thats all i got so-far. i plan on 2 10's (either elementals or image dynamics) in a subthump milhouse box and either oldschool ppi art series amps or the new jl slash series amps. i also plan on gettin a red or yellow top ultima and a 200 amp alt. (just because...)

if you want rear fill i would look into a head unit with time correction and just use the rears for midbass to fill the gap between the front stage and the subs (if you plan on getting them). thats what i was advised to do, that way you keep all the sizzle up front.

i would advise looking into sound deadening and wiring first, as thats pretty much the foundation for everything else.

i'll be doing as much of my sound deadening and wire termination as i can this weekend, i'll take pics along the way and try to post them.

...ineresting you mention CDT's badhoopty.
I have a NIB set of EF61CF w/ SatNet 560's and titanium tw-20's that I'm looking to sell.

Rear fill means ANY speakers behind you. 99% of sound quality systems will have 1 pair of high quality mids/highs either in the kick panels, or front doors to create a accurate sound stage. Speakers mounted behind the listener can pull the front soundstage backwards, destroying any illusion of the band playing in front of you, like at a concert, which is the goal in a SQ system. Spend your money on some high-quality mids/highs in the front, makbe some kick panels, and amplifier power. Some links to help you with your research:

http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl
http://stevebrownuniversity.com/sbu/carAudio/default.htm#
http://www.carsound.com/cgi-bin/UBB_CGI/ultimatebb.cgi/
http://www.bcae1.com/

I recommend you do a lot of research and learning before you spend your hard earned money. You might end up buying a system that you don't like after learning more about car audio. Good luck with your system! :)

Very true but without rears or a center channel 5.1 digital doesn't work!


I would go with a MB Quart spearkers cheaper in price and very good! I like flip out screens bigger visual and better audio settings! But back to speakers! A 6.5 or a cicular speaker is better than any other shape and a componat set is worlds better than a 2way or 3 way!

So go with a 6.5 front and rear and later a 10" sub. If you could fit a center channel in there that vert with real come alive! A center is the most important speaker in the set!

...ineresting you mention CDT's badhoopty.
I have a NIB set of EF61CF w/ SatNet 560's and titanium tw-20's that I'm looking to sell.

sent you a PM :cool:

...ineresting you mention CDT's badhoopty.
I have a NIB set of EF61CF w/ SatNet 560's and titanium tw-20's that I'm looking to sell.

those 560s are built hella nice, i got those as well as the model they replaced and there is no comparison in build quality. its gonna be a shame to hide them they are so dang sweet looking.

Very true but without rears or a center channel 5.1 digital doesn't work!


I would go with a MB Quart spearkers cheaper in price and very good! I like flip out screens bigger visual and better audio settings! But back to speakers! A 6.5 or a cicular speaker is better than any other shape and a componat set is worlds better than a 2way or 3 way!

So go with a 6.5 front and rear and later a 10" sub. If you could fit a center channel in there that vert with real come alive! A center is the most important speaker in the set!:confused: Why would I care of 5.1... I don't watch movies... that's @ home... I just want to listen to great quality music.
If you look in detail, the speakers I'm refering to are component speakers, and was woundering if I should go with 2-components or 3-components speakers for the front... but it looks like I'll have fitment issues doing it that way... so I think I'll be going with the 2-components 6.5".
Since I also have a convertible, I don't have the 6x9" speakers that were mentionned... so there ain't gonna be different than round shaped speakers on the system chosen.

actually, after reading some more, I think I'll be going with the following:
front: Focal 165W ($630)
rear: Focal Audiom 6W ($180)
sub: 2x 5WS... should be more than enough bass, knowing myself ($150 x2)
amp: Eclipse PA5532 should be enough ($400)
hu: Alpine CDA-9827 ($230)

total: $1700-1750
Then there are a few accessories and wires (won't sacrifice on those)... so I'm still way within budget.

As I said previously, I'll be doing the wiring, and I'll also be doing the sound-deathening... but not this winter... maybe next winter... it's just a matter of time.
This setup allows me to have all the detail in the front, get mid in the panels, and 2 small subs in the rear to fill the rest, and since I don't like big bass, and especially the vibrating ones, 2x 5" from Focal that have great reviews might do the job.

Eugenio_SS,

Unless you plan on crossing over those 6W's at 80 hz or less I wouldn't put them in the rear. As Snootch mentioned, any speakers behind the listener that produce frequencies above 80hz will pull the stage rearward and make the music sound like it's coming from inside your head, rather than out in front of the car.

The most common competition setup in our cars is with a 3-way component set up front and a subwoofer or 2 in the rear. The 3-way component setup requires the use of aftermarket kickpanel pods but is very do-able. If your car is a standard, you will loose the dead pedal. If it's an automatic, then no worries. If you don't want to do a 3-way then a 2-way component set would be the next best.

I would also add that you might want to go with a single 10" sub rather than dual 5" subs. The focal 5WS has a published frequency response down to 45hz which is not low enough in my opinion. If you listen to any redbook quality CD's you'll be missing a lot of the music. Especially if you listen to much jazz. You'll be missing a lot of the great bass rips in jazz music. The JL10W7 is rated down to 30hz and when combined with the JLaudio 500/1 amplifier, it sings down low. Very clear and articulated lower octave output. Much better than 2 5Ws's.

Other than that, your equipment list looks great.

Russell