Stereo & Electronics - New speaker suggestions

Im replacing all my speakers and getting a panisonic 1.5 din reciever. I need some advice on the speakers.

I would like to run the setup like this, if you have better ideas please let me know.
1 amp for 2 fronts and 2 rears
1 amp for the 2 subs( was looking at fosgates and W0's)
front tweeters and rear tweeters running off the head unit

All speakers are going in factory location.

Help on amps would be nice too? Looking for physically pretty small amps, I would like to have them both in the little area to the lower left when you open the hatch.

Also, can you get speakers for the front and rear that are not 2 way, since I will be running seperate tweeters anyway.

Thanks everyone.

Get component speaks for the Front. Spend the extra money on the Front stage and just put Coaxial (2 ways) for the back.

Don't spend the money on the extra tweeters. If you get good Component speaks that would be enough. Like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32819&item=5749204622&rd=1


If you like the extra treble, most good brands have adjustments on the passive crossovers that allow you to adjust for extra sound throught them. Amp the Fronts of a good 2 ch, the rears off the Deck and an amp for the subs.

What kind of budget are you look at? PM or post it up. Can make the decicion easier. Can move the money around to spend it in the right areas.

Sounds like a good starting point but can probably improve it in some areas.

Also I vote for the JL's. They have always made a good speaker and they seem to be little better than the Fosgates at the same price range.

Actually you can get away with a good 3, 4, or 5 ch. amp and don't have to worry about fitting 2 in the same spot. Also an amp in that well needs to have good ventilation to keep from getting too hot. I saw pics before of people mounting the amp on a board ontop of the spare tire too.

Thanks for the replies, My friend has done his T/A and went like you suggested, with the component only no extra tweeter. He has all top notch stuff and it is loud and sounds great, but doesn't have the sound stage that im looking for. Having the tweeters up higher and at an angle will create a larger more open sound stage. And I don't want to put crap in the back, yes the rear is just fill everyone says"you don't even hear them" Yes you do, the fron't and rear combination creates the"sitting in the middle of the sound" sound stage. The place I was talking about putting the amp is in the left side, it's an open space, should be fine, it won't be covered or anything.

Our maybe a setup like this?

1.5 DIN reciever

Front component speakers alpine type-R SPR-136A

Rear hatch alpine sps-100a 4"

Sail panel subs jl 6w0

amp 6 channel jl audio e6450

?????????????

Ok. You know about imageing. Yea. Putting the tweeters' up higher will raise the stage.

I see that Kick Panels won't work well because your an M6. Try just Mid-range speakers in the sail panels, turned down a bit. That will help draw the stage upwards. The tweeter's should pull the stage alittle more forward.

If you have tweeters in the rear, it might the stage rearward to much. Treble is much more directional.

Ok. You know about imageing. Yea. Putting the tweeters' up higher will raise the stage.

I see that Kick Panels won't work well because your an M6. Try just Mid-range speakers in the sail panels, turned down a bit. That will help draw the stage upwards. The tweeter's should pull the stage alittle more forward.

If you have tweeters in the rear, it might the stage rearward to much. Treble is much more directional.

The mid range idea is good but I do want to put subs in the sail panels. If I wasn't using rear hatch speakers and had a sub in the back that would be great. With the mid range and tweeters in the front, the subs in the middle and mid range and tweeters in the back (tuned to the right volume with the amp) should make a great open sound stage with no direction of sound. The kick panels would probrably help, but the tweeters in the set im looking at can be rotated, If I had them facing some what upwards and towards the side windows, that should help keep the stage open as well.

Thanks for the comments, i'm more of a home audiophile trying to do it in a car now. How do you think that six channel amp would work out for this setup?

If you want imaging, then pillar tweets are the way to go IMO, and I would also suggest going w/comps for the front, and you don't even need rear EXCEPT for fill, or SRS purposes. IT is a real PITA to raise the height and I also have an M6, so I have a hybrid system. Probably NOT the way you want to go, but I bi-amped both front/rear comps for greater control, and have my pillar tweets run directly via the HU. Everything else is run thru my 4band EQ, so I can balance volume, and obtain greater control over imaging issues.

IF you don't plan on competing, forget everything I just said. This was an experiment that worked out very well.

thanks, not looking to compete, and yes raising the tweets would help, but im just trying to pu together a really good sounding system, using stock speaker locations, and make it sound that best that I can(not the best there is) Just something that sounds really good to me.

thanks, not looking to compete, and yes raising the tweets would help, but im just trying to pu together a really good sounding system, using stock speaker locations, and make it sound that best that I can(not the best there is) Just something that sounds really good to me.


Proper tuning can raise your height to about dash level at best from my experiences in this F-body. Sounds like you've been given very good advice.
I definitely wouldn't recommend my set-up unless VERY SERIOUS about competition.

FYI, I angled my door tweets directly across from each other, as same for the pillar tweets. You'll have to experiment w/door panel tweeter angles.
Those door tweets will scream up at you, unless you re-direct. Hence, why I elected to bi-amp my tweeters/mids. WHAT WE REALLY NEED ARE KICKS!
Darn, M6's

Good luck!

Yeah I know, it's gonna take some experimenting with the amp and the speakers to get it right, but that's the only way to do it. I spent an entire day and half a night setting up my home system the right way, but the results are spectacular. I really havn't had any advice yet, I just started trying to piece my car stereo system together the other day. It all pretty much came from knowing about home stereo stuff. Take it easy.

If anyone has any info or is using this amp please let me know how you like it or if you think it will work for what im doing. Thanks.

im gonna be selling my speakers if your interested. they are focal access components for the front and coaxials in the back. had them in for only a couple months and im changing my setup so pm me if your interested.

I'm no expert, but after some research, I went like this:
Front - MBQuart 6.5" components (Q218)
Sub- JL Audio stealth box, 10" sub, dual voice coils
Front amp - JL Audio 300-2
Sub Amp - JL Audio 250-1
1 farad cap
NEO35 mp3, with 80gb hard drive
Alpine head unit


This system kills in my car, the clarity exceeded my expectations, and I've heard other , higher wattage systems that pale by comparison. And I still have T-Top storage.
pic (http://mrbobo.com/pics/all/Car/imagepages/image8.htm)

Sounds like a nice setup, but i'm going with using all the stock speaker locations. I'm taking the hole interior apart, taking all the old wiring out and the monsoon amp, and replacing everything, also puttin down some dynomat, probrably just in the back(sides, and floor, including where the back seats used to be, in the sail panels and door panels.

Sounds like a nice setup, but i'm going with using all the stock speaker locations. I'm taking the hole interior apart, taking all the old wiring out and the monsoon amp, and replacing everything, also puttin down some dynomat, probrably just in the back(sides, and floor, including where the back seats used to be, in the sail panels and door panels.


Sounds like you're taking a page from my book, but you'll be very pleased.
Dynomatting will definitely help to keep some of the road noise out. Good investment, but watch out for the added weight. (2) bulk packs and (2) door kits will add a tremendous amount of weight. Probably looking at 120# at MY dynomatting. Good stuff, but I needed an SUV for this project. :eyes: :eyes:

I didn't know it was so heavy. So one layer on both doors and the back would way about 120.. hmm, may have to rethink this plan. Maybe only behind the speakers. dunno yet. To give me a good idea, how much does a 1footX1foot square weigh?

Not sure, but MANY just go w/door kits and disregard the rest. Wish I had elected that method. For sound pressure, you may want to line your hatch/trunk area. I am basically an SQ (sound quality) guy. If you see my pics, you'll see I gutted the entire vehicle. IMO, hindsight, not necessary.
Last year, I competed in both SQ and SP formats, so this was a requirement for me. A personal decision.

Just a forewarning! Now I used Dynomat Extreme which is an asphalt-based product and is heavier than other Dynomat products. They claim Extreme is more effective on sound-deadening. Suggest you determine needs (sq ft) and then check it out. Then you'll have a ballpark idea of weight.

From what I keep reading the extreme is lighter than the original dynamat but works 4 times better. I can get 36sq feet of it for about $95 Im still looking to find weights of this stuff.

I have a question for you. I was looking at you cardomain posts(Very nice car by the way, I love firehawks), when you dynamated your doors, did you take that plastic off that is in there from the factory or put it over it, and do you use the dynamat inside the speaker housing as well(say like in the sail panels) or just around it? Sorry may seem like a dumb question but Ive never used this stuff before. My main reason for putting it behind the speaker in the sail panels is to stop the outside vibration sound on the sail panel.

Ok, I found the weight, 36square feet is about 30 pounds. Maybe be a little more weight than I want, think I might just do both doors and the sail panel area. Still need to know about putting it behind the speakers though, sounds like a good idea to me.

Yes, the plastic was stripped to bare metal and we built some door pods (MDF construction) which are glued and drilled into the door frame itself....everything was dynomatted as you can see by the passenger door picture. Well, except the access openings to get to the window motor/regulator, which BTW, had to be replaced. These window motors suck on F-bodies, so I did something right. We have removed those doors so many times that the clips are no longer a working item, so we had to use a tacky compound for adhesion purposes. So far, no problems, but I did not do the install, so I cannot comment precisely on what they did or what products that used.

....thanks for the props. Hope that answers most of you questions.

Oh, sorry, yes, the midrange 6.5" is fastened to my MDF template, and the tweeter is fastened to the door frame itself utilizing 2-hole strapping material for easy adjustments (imaging) --- the speakers are not in the stock locations.

yes, but doesn't that clear plastic piece stop water from getting to everything, so wouldn't your MDF or dynamat get wet? also if you look at that last post, I found the weghts for this stuff, i edited it.

Ok, I found the weight, 36square feet is about 30 pounds. Maybe be a little more weight than I want, think I might just do both doors and the sail panel area. Still need to know about putting it behind the speakers though, sounds like a good idea to me.

As much power as I am running, I didn't want vibration, or door buzz so mounting them onto a firm surface only seemed the logical choice, 3/4" MDF provides nice backing for those 6.5's.

Water will only enter from the outside (rubber molding/window), and I drove around 4 weeks this winter (window motor/regulator replacement) and only noticed a small amt of water that trickled down inside the door. Absolutely no problems, and I even checked out my 6.5's after being in the car for 1 year.

Again, they look brand new, no moisture buildup or deterioration that I could see anywhere. Actually, I was astonished. So, I can understand you concerns. You should not have any problems.