BOWTIE
03-29-2005, 04:45 AM
OK stereo fanatics, I am looking to upgrade the sound on my beater (1991 Chev Suburban) and am coming to you for advice. Keep in mind I am not trying to impress the neighbors, attract 17 year olds, or win any stereo competitions, I would just like to improve what is there a little and get a little more thump. I also need to be able to hear it over the road noise with the windows down since it has no A/C. So, I recently purchased an Alpine 9833 and am looking to supplement my existing 8 year old RF 4 channel amp and Boston Acoustic 5x7's and Alpine 6x9's with a sub and another amp. I am trying to keep the total cost and space occupied by the sub and enclosure to a minimum. So what I think i have narrowed it down to is a single 12" sub in an approximately 1 CF sealed enclosure (I am planning on building it myself so the dimensions will be more adapted to the truck), and an amp. The best reasonably priced sub I have found that I thought would generate enough sound with the wattage I can afford is this Infinity Perfect 12.1:
aluminum cone
high-roll butyl-rubber surround
massive cast-aluminum basket
suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
recommended power range 75-350 watts RMS
peak power handling 1,400 watts
frequency response 18-200 Hz
sensitivity 96 dB
top mount depth 6-1/8"
sealed box volume: 1.0 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
I am thinking about driving it with this Alpine amp running in bridged:
110 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
170 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
340 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode
stereo or bridged mono output
Tri-Way capable
requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
Bass Engine® features:
variable 15-400 Hz high-pass/30-400 Hz low-pass crossovers, 12 dB/octave
tuned Bass EQ (6 dB bass boost at 50 Hz with adjustable Q factor, while frequencies below 30 Hz are cut by 6 dB)
MOSFET power supply
STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
oversized power and ground connections
gold-plated screw terminals
top-mounted controls with cover
detachable front cover
blue power LED
12-7/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-13/16"D (depth is 10" with front cover removed)
I have found the sub for $129.00 and the amp for $189.00 for a total of less than $350.00 with shipping (I will get the speaker wire and cable locally). Would do you all think about these choices of components and do you think they would work well together. Any other suggestions or recommendations (other than I need a bunch more speaker and a bunch more power) would be appreciated. I realize this is not a lot of sub and power for a Suburban, but it is only intended to compliment what I have already, be affordable, and not take up a lot of space (I am already limited on space due to the 3rd row seat as it is). TIA
aluminum cone
high-roll butyl-rubber surround
massive cast-aluminum basket
suitable for free-air use (handles up to 175 watts in free-air applications)
recommended power range 75-350 watts RMS
peak power handling 1,400 watts
frequency response 18-200 Hz
sensitivity 96 dB
top mount depth 6-1/8"
sealed box volume: 1.0 cu. ft.
ported box volume: 1.75 cu. ft.
I am thinking about driving it with this Alpine amp running in bridged:
110 watts RMS x 2 at 4 ohms
170 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms
340 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode
stereo or bridged mono output
Tri-Way capable
requires 8-gauge power and ground leads — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
Bass Engine® features:
variable 15-400 Hz high-pass/30-400 Hz low-pass crossovers, 12 dB/octave
tuned Bass EQ (6 dB bass boost at 50 Hz with adjustable Q factor, while frequencies below 30 Hz are cut by 6 dB)
MOSFET power supply
STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
oversized power and ground connections
gold-plated screw terminals
top-mounted controls with cover
detachable front cover
blue power LED
12-7/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 11-13/16"D (depth is 10" with front cover removed)
I have found the sub for $129.00 and the amp for $189.00 for a total of less than $350.00 with shipping (I will get the speaker wire and cable locally). Would do you all think about these choices of components and do you think they would work well together. Any other suggestions or recommendations (other than I need a bunch more speaker and a bunch more power) would be appreciated. I realize this is not a lot of sub and power for a Suburban, but it is only intended to compliment what I have already, be affordable, and not take up a lot of space (I am already limited on space due to the 3rd row seat as it is). TIA