Stereo & Electronics - Building A Sub box Questions




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Topless TA
08-03-2006, 05:32 PM
I am looking at putting a box together for my convertible to fit on the back shelf a lot like the one JohnnyB has designed. I know someone else did a similar build but had two 8" subs firing to the front instead of his rear firing. I am trying to jam in two 10"

My questions are..........

1) How close to the edge of the box can you mount
2) As long as the Cubic Feet of the interior dimension of the box matches the sub
is there any reason to not mount on the hypotenuse of a right triangle design

thanks in advance


2MuchRiceMakesMeSick
08-03-2006, 07:33 PM
I am looking at putting a box together for my convertible to fit on the back shelf a lot like the one JohnnyB has designed. I know someone else did a similar build but had two 8" subs firing to the front instead of his rear firing. I am trying to jam in two 10"

My questions are..........

1) How close to the edge of the box can you mount
2) As long as the Cubic Feet of the interior dimension of the box matches the sub
is there any reason to not mount on the hypotenuse of a right triangle design

thanks in advance


1) As close as you want as long as you retain structral integerty. I would coat the inside of the box with fiberglass for strenght and greater rear wave isolation.

2) Im not sure im understanding. I dont see why the larger side of the box(triangle) would make a difference as long as you have enough clearance to mound the sub. It is important however to keep the ports (if your going ported) together as some cars create pressure/dead spots.

Topless TA
08-03-2006, 07:40 PM
Thanks 2MuchRiceMakesMeSick

I didnt think so but didnt want to was my time.
you know measure once cut twice sucks, thanks

I was planning on portless, is there a big advantage to ported?
the subs will be firing thru the lowered top


TA guy
08-04-2006, 11:12 AM
I built mine with 2 8's firing into the cabin. The drivers will be fine like that.

I have also found that there is more cabin gain to be had by firing rearward into the trunk, also you don't gain and noticable volume in the cabin when the top is down when you point them forward vs rearward.

Currently I have my box facing rearward (2 8's ported tuned to ~32hz, I built the box with variable tuning options, 40hz or 32hz) in a somewhat awkward position until I get around to building rev. 2 of my box because of the gain in volume (about 5db-6db according to my SPL meter)

My box dose not tightly seal off the trunk like Johnny B's, there is ample room for the sound to enter the cabin from the trunk. One day I will get some pics up, I had a nice CAD drawing of the revised design too but I lost it in a HD failure. If the guy I gave a copy to still has it please send me a copy.

What 10's do you plan to use?