Stereo & Electronics - is this cap any good or is it a POS

thinking I may need a cap / upgraded audio sys.

1. ? is this cap any good?

http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=powpc20f&store=&rpc=&catid=8061

2. ? is this a safe place to buy from (seams kindof cheap)?

thanks

A few of my friends have bought from etronics and didnt experience any problems. If your unsure check out sites like bizrate.com. I personally dont order from them b/c they charge an ass load for shipping (maybe why they sell stuff so cheap)

I think capacitors are actually only made by 3 or 4 companies, then sold to a stereo manufacturer who slaps on their label. So, I don't think there is much of a difference. I do however tend to stay away from the "cheaper" branded ones, (boss, visonik, power acoustic, pyramid, etc.) because I know they sell a cheap, shitty product, and I don't want to take a chance with their caps. Here is a link to a Metra cap for less than the one you posted: http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90135447&SearchEngine=Froogle&SearchTerm=90135447&Type=PE&Category=Elec&dcaid=17379
In case you have never heard of Metra, they make installation accesories (dash kits, wiring harnesses, etc.) and run several high-end installer schools across the country. Hope this helps.

how many watts are you gonna be running? Some people will tell you that you really don't need one.

I have bought a ton of shit from etronics because ALL their stuff is way cheaper than I can find anywhere else.

Never had a problem, I love that site.

how many watts are you gonna be running? Some people will tell you that you really don't need one.
apline mrp f450 4x70 RMS

rockford fosgate p3002 1x330RMS

Think I'll observe the amp (charging meter closer) but it usally is above the the 12V section.

I may just connect a good multimeter and observe charging at ideal, and cruising both ways bumping my shit and not bumping my shit.

also I'm not constantly bumping my shit & don't drive this car much at night.

Thanks

I would not buy one unless you need it. I am pushing about 800watts and have no need for it. Just upgrade the stock charging wiring and call it a day.

I would not buy one unless you need it. I am pushing about 800watts and have no need for it. Just upgrade the stock charging wiring and call it a day.
I'm thinking you have largened the guage of the atlernater wires I'm confussed on what you post?

and agree don't get one if I don't need one that's why I haven't ordered one.

Thanks

get a batcap. Its small super efficient, and will give you more power on demand.

caps are all made by 2 separate manufacturers.

I'm thinking you have largened the guage of the atlernater wires I'm confussed on what you post?

and agree don't get one if I don't need one that's why I haven't ordered one.

Thanks

That is correct. I replaced the stock wiring to 4 gauge and I do not have any dimming. I replaced the wiring from the battery to the fuse block, the wiring from the fuse block to the alternator, and the grounds straps. My car dimmed at night prior to replacing the wiring. Caps are just a bandaid and not sure why people continue to push these. They may look cool but, that is about it.

That is correct. I replaced the stock wiring to 4 gauge and I do not have any dimming. I replaced the wiring from the battery to the fuse block, the wiring from the fuse block to the alternator, and the grounds straps. My car dimmed at night prior to replacing the wiring. Caps are just a bandaid and not sure why people continue to push these. They may look cool but, that is about it.

I think if you saw a noticeable difference before and afer replacing your power wiring, there was a problem with your stock wiring. Possibly a connector was severly corroded, causing a high path of resistance or something. The stock wiring should be good enough even for large systems. I think that replacing the stock power wiring should be done mostly for looks and not electrical performance. I agree on caps being a bandaid, most systems can benefit most from a H.O. alternator. But, minor voltage dropping issues with moderate systems can be solved with a capacitor without the need for an expensive alternator. Besides, the extra buffer that the added capacitance affords (whether or not a H.O. alternator is used) can allow the amps to draw as much current during musical transients as they wish.

A cap is a bandaid????? If it does anything it takes the initial amperage pound of the bass off of the battery and the aternator. I used to run a 2000 watt system in my Jeep and I had never had a battery last longer than a year until I hooked up a cap. It takes some power to push 2-12" Fosgate Power Series.

A cap is often reffered to as a "band-aid" fix because it can minimize voltage dropping effects (such as dimming lights, etc.) by supplying instantaneous current, instead of fixing the real problem of the car's electrical system being unable to supply the needed current due to a insufficient stock alternator. Replacing the alternator with a high-output model is the real fix. As I stated before, sometimes a cap can be a solution if your power problems are minimal. If you are say, running a 1500 watt amplifier that can pull 120A in a car with a stock 80A alternator, adding a capacitor will slightly minimize the problems of insufficient current supply, hence a "band-aid".

A cap is often reffered to as a "band-aid" fix because it can minimize voltage dropping effects (such as dimming lights, etc.) by supplying instantaneous current, instead of fixing the real problem of the car's electrical system being unable to supply the needed current due to a insufficient stock alternator. Replacing the alternator with a high-output model is the real fix. As I stated before, sometimes a cap can be a solution if your power problems are minimal. If you are say, running a 1500 watt amplifier that can pull 120A in a car with a stock 80A alternator, adding a capacitor will slightly minimize the problems of insufficient current supply, hence a "band-aid".

Like i said, "some" people will tell you that a cap isn't necessary. i've read so many threads where people argue about how great or how shitty they are. In my 91RS 305, i had two alpine R's, pushed by a 600 watt amp, and my mids and highs pushed by a 300 watt crunch, i never had any problems with the battery, or lights dimming.

i'd say, if you're running a small system, and you're not trying to get into major comps or anything, just stick with what you have. if you're battery is from the factory, maybe you could upgrade to a red top or something. cause batteries don't last forever.

I think if you saw a noticeable difference before and afer replacing your power wiring, there was a problem with your stock wiring. Possibly a connector was severly corroded, causing a high path of resistance or something. The stock wiring should be good enough even for large systems. I think that replacing the stock power wiring should be done mostly for looks and not electrical performance. I agree on caps being a bandaid, most systems can benefit most from a H.O. alternator. But, minor voltage dropping issues with moderate systems can be solved with a capacitor without the need for an expensive alternator. Besides, the extra buffer that the added capacitance affords (whether or not a H.O. alternator is used) can allow the amps to draw as much current during musical transients as they wish.

The stock wiring is barely 8 gauge which I hardly call sufficient. The connections, prior to the 4 gauge ugrade was new connectors from StreetWires. It still dimmed with hard bass hits. Once the wiring was upgraded to better quality and thicker gauge, no dimmming at all. I have beat the crap out my DieHard and it has lasted for years. I used a 1 farad cap, many years ago, with 2 Kicker Comp 15's and a PPI A600. The cap made no difference and wondered if it even worked.

Of course the cap made no difference when you have an amp powering 2 power hungry 15" woofers. The cap is meant for small- lower powered systems in order to be efficient. IF the amperage draw is greater than what your alternator puts out, it wont matter how many batteries and caps you have, theyll start dying off if you hammer it enough. At that point, all you are doing is storing a small amount of {energy} which you are supposed to use as a buffer, but if you have a true 2000 watt amp, itll eat it up in a matter of a bass note.