Stereo & Electronics - picking out an alternater upgrade 200 or 160

my amps are 4x70WRMS & 1X 330WRMS is 200 amps to much or is is better to have than the 160 amp?

I expect to be able to bump my shit at ideal/ AC & lights on.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=8203

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=8203

Thanks

Important factor in a Hi output alternator is the Idle Amps - since this is when most of the discharging will be done if you have heavy hitting accessories.

Personally I went with a HO alternator from Nathan at Excessive Amperage - his 200A alternators actually put out 160A at idle, and they can be powdercoated also.

-Jay-

I got mine from EA as well. There is no such thing as "too much", your stereo system will draw as much power as it needs. It is just nice to have the extra amps should you need them if you upgrade your amplifiers or add other power accesories to your system. Besides the 200A costs slightly more.

BTW, here's a few threads about Excessive Amperage:

http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=basicsq;action=display;num=110488525 5;start=
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=basicsq;action=display;num=115281666 6;start=0#0
http://www.fbodyaudio.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=basicsq;action=display;num=111030514 3;start=4#4

still haven't upgraded alt. yet guess I got used to turning AC off at red lights.

well I just got a price quote from EA $350. for a 200amp.

this seams about $100. to much compared to new knukoncepts.

You shouldn't need an alternator upgrade for that. It's a pretty modest system.

You shouldn't need an alternator upgrade for that. It's a pretty modest system.

IMO

True, If you want to do anything do the "Big 3" to maximize you factory alternators efficiency. Then If/when you go up to/over 1400 rms watts, the get a 200Amp alt.:nod:

IMO

True, If you want to do anything do the "Big 3" to maximize you factory alternators efficiency. Then If/when you go up to/over 1400 rms watts, the get a 200Amp alt.:nod:yes it's a modest sys. what is the big 3?

thanks

yea with that system you dont need to upgrade the alternator yet

then why do'es my charging sys. charge at 8Volts at idel w/ only the fog lights on or even the defrost and audio on?

if I have the AC on it's even lower than 8Vs.

what is the big3?

thanks

FYI, the bigger the better! And use at least 4 gauge!
"Big3"
(1) engine to chassis ground(cable).
(2) alternator to battery + (cable).
(3) - battery to ground(cable).

OK big 3 sounds like a good plan.

I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?

will copper ring conectors be good enought?

?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..

also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.

Thanks

OK big 3 sounds like a good plan.

I have some left over #4 guage wire I used on my amp. install would this be OK in the engine compartment if I added some plastic conveluted tubeing for heat protection?

will copper ring conectors be good enought?

?where is the (1) engine to chassis ground(cable). located? I've sean a ribbon type of wire under the car not sure what it's for tho..

also I planning on a Race tronics fuel pump this pump is suposed to use double the power compared to stock pump.

Thanks

your factory alternator is probably starting to die, because you shouldn't be pulling enough amperage to go that low in voltage.

4 ga should be ok, 1/0 is better, but probably overkill for you application. Plastic convoluted tubing doesn't offer any kind of heat protection. Get it close to heat and it just melts away faster than the wire insulation.

Your stock alternator will handle the draw from your amps just fine as long as it is good working condition. I have a 1000wrms amp right now on my stock alt and it barely wiggles my volt gauge and there is hardly any dimming in the lights. You can get a stock replacement alt for about $100.

I have done the big 1. just added #4 guage from neg. battery to the body
on top of the orginal wire.

my idel is set low 590RPM on HP tuners ( I have a mild street stripe cam).

observations are as follows.

1.charges at a solid 12Vs at idel w/ nothing on.

2.stays at solid 12Vs w/ AC on wide open.

3. w/ AC wide open and headlights on it jumps to over the straight up position of 12Vs looks like 13.5Vs.

this is not a complete test because I did'nt have the radio on. will test that Thrusday to dam hot outside.

I would like to know where the engine to ground wire is located?

Thanks Guy's for helpfull surport

If you mean engine to chassis it's on the driver's side,
it is a braided bare wire you can't miss it.
Battery to engine is bolted above the starter.

You should be able to log battery voltage thru HPT
instead of using the stock gauge for better accuracy.

If you mean engine to chassis it's on the driver's side,
it is a braided bare wire you can't miss it.
Battery to engine is bolted above the starter.

You should be able to log battery voltage thru HPT
instead of using the stock gauge for better accuracy.where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire I can't see it.

image would be great.

Thanks

One other question: are you running an underdrive crank pulley and/or alternator pulley?

One other question: are you running an underdrive crank pulley and/or alternator pulley?

no just regular crank pulley.

where exactly is the braided engine to chassis wire I can't see it.

image would be great.

Thanks

I would also bump the idle speed back up to at least 700rpm with the AC on.
That way your Alternator is producing more Amps when it needs to.

Not to hijack. But anybody have any luck with a 200A alt? Where did you get yours?