Stereo & Electronics - stock speakers

What are the sizes for the stock monsoon speakers

front?

mid?

rear?

thanx.

Front Speakers - 6.5" or 6.75"

Middle Rear Sail - 6.5"

Rear Hatch Speakers - 4"

...these are for Camaros - not positive about other models

:search:

All these questions are answered in detail in the Monsoon FAQ at the top of the forum.

my bad..thanx tho

ok so..i kinda read the monsoon FAQ thing..and i really didnt even understand what i read..i saw something about 6.5 2-ohm, or something..and that still didnt really help me..

so lets say i had to buy new speakers to replace the busted door speakers..what would i tell the people at circut city, or whereever what i need..sorry if i sound like a moron..but i guess im not that great with car lingo..

in crutchfiled it says front 6-3/4 rear 6-3/4 and hatch 4" not all 6.5 " speakers fit in the door and sail spots i found out the hard way lol!

ok so..i kinda read the monsoon FAQ thing..and i really didnt even understand what i read..i saw something about 6.5 2-ohm, or something..and that still didnt really help me..

so lets say i had to buy new speakers to replace the busted door speakers..what would i tell the people at circut city, or whereever what i need..sorry if i sound like a moron..but i guess im not that great with car lingo..
I don't mean to sound harsh but if you didn't understand the terminology then you might be better off having a professional replace your speakers. There is more to buying replacement speakers than just the size.

That being said, I'll try to break it down for you. The Camaro Monsoon system has speakers in six locations - two doors, two sail panels (beside the seats), and both sides of the hatch area. The doors and sail panels have speakers called "6.5S". That's a specification for oversized 6.5" round speakers which means that you can use either 6.5" or 6.75" replacements. The hatch speakers are 4" round.

The door speakers look like ordinary two-way (coaxial) speakers - they're round speakers with a small tweeter mounted in the center. The difference from coax is that the woofer (main part of the speaker) and the tweeter are actually separate speaker elements - they each have their own wiring. That means you have four speaker wires in each door - positive and negative for each of the two elements. So when you buy replacement speakers you have to consider whether you want to get speakers that work the same way as the stock ones or just get ordinary coax and ignore the extra wiring (there are some coax speakers that can be easily modified to work as separate components).

The sail panel speakers are also somewhat unusual. They are midbass subs - they only produce low frequencies. The audio signal coming from the amp to the sail panel subs is filtered to only provide low frequencies so replacement speakers won't produce anything but bass no matter what type you get because that's all the signal that's available there. They also run at 2-ohms impedance (resistance). The 2-ohm impedance is somewhat important because most replacement speakers are 4-ohm. Doubling the impedance will cut the volume in half if everything else is equal. So the trick is to make sure everything else isn't equal. You do that by getting speakers that are more efficient than the stock ones. Efficiency is a measurement of how well a speaker converts signal into sound and is usually specified on the box for any decent speakers (i.e. not flea market stuff). An efficiency specification of 90dB or higher will be efficient enough to make the 4-ohm impedance unimportant.

There is a great web site that goes through all the theory and terminology if you have the time to read it: Basic Car Audio Electronics (http://www.bcae1.com). Also, there are plenty of knowledgeable people on this site that will be able to help you. Just make sure you either get specific recommendations or gain an understanding of what's involved before you go out and buy speakers. In the long run you will be much happier with the sound you get.

They also run at 2-ohms impedance (resistance).


I know you didn't meant it like that, but I don't want anyone else to confuse impedance with resistance.



There is a great web site that goes through all the theory and terminology if you have the time to read it: Basic Car Audio Electronics (http://www.bcae1.com).

wow, never seen this link before - just browsed through the topics -- VERY comprehensive...thanks for posting!

I know you didn't meant it like that, but I don't want anyone else to confuse impedance with resistance.

You're right of course but I thought that would be the simplest way to explain it without getting too technical.

thats works..thanx for everything..