Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific - breaking inn motor

What oil should i use to break in my 383 stroker. I heard that its not good to break in a motor with synthetic oil, is this true?
And how many miles should i put in it to break it in?

If you have a flat-tappet cam use rotella oil it has the additive that helps the flat-tappet cam live. Difinitely no synthetic on break in.

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we always say break in with standard oil, drain to get all assembly lube and metal out of engine. run standard for the 1st thousand miles or so, checking dip stick for anything funny a lot. some people will run 3000 but I think either is fine, just don't forget, there is a lot of breaking in and wear in the metal the 1st thousand miles.

don't be lazy, good luck

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If you can find it, Rotella HD 10W-30 is a great break in oil. Very high ZDDP additive package like it's 15W-40 brother.

+1 for using Rotella oil (has a high ZDDP additive)

Do NOT use synthetic on break in, or for the first 500 miles. After that, you should be good to use synthetic.

Thanks for the answers

if you dont like to pay the higher price of the Rotella, go to the dealer and get some EOS and a bottle of cam and lifter lube

What oil should i use to break in my 383 stroker. I heard that its not good to break in a motor with synthetic oil, is this true?
And how many miles should i put in it to break it in?

You can run straight 30w oil with the cam break in lube that the cam manufacture provided. The rings and cam should break in fine, the most common mistake I see in break in procedure is guys starting up the motor and letting it idle for half an hour with no load on it then turning it off and letting it cool down then starting it back up again. This whole heat cycle thing is not the way to do it.

The way I break in a new motor if it's in the car is as follows:
First make sure all your fluids are topped off, leave your radiator cap off, make sure your in the ball park with timing and fuel. If you need some recommendations shoot me an e-mail and I'll get you close.

Turn the motor over with the starter; make sure you have no fuel or spark going to the motor. Turn it over until you get oil pressure on your gauge. Once you see the oil pressure needle move go ahead and hook up your fuel and distributor. Start the motor, it should start right up have your timing light hooked up and ready. Start the motor and get it above 1000 rpm, check your timing and set it.
Keep the rpm between 1000 and 3000 rpm don’t let it stay at any one rpm for very long, don't let the engine go below 1000 rpm. This ensures you have good oil pressure to the entire motor, and varies the pressures on the lifters and rings, once the motor warms up to operating temperature and you see that the water thermostat is open, top off your radiator and put the cap on.

Get in the car and drive it, it shouldn’t idle more than 20 minutes without a load on it. You need to get a load on the rings as soon as you can. Drive the car around for about 45 minutes, down shift it from about 65 mph and allow the motor to slow the car. Do this about 10 times, at this point the motor shouldn't be smoking and your rings should be set.

Take it easy for 500 miles; keep the motor under 3500 rpm. At 500 miles change your oil and filter, I would go ahead and put another 1500 miles minimum on the motor before putting it under any heavy load. Once you get 2000 miles total on it you should have it broken in well and you can start driving it hard. After about 5000 miles you should see gas mileage improve and a small increase in power.

This is do to the new parts getting worn in well and the motor loosening up a bit.
If you have any question give me a call. If this is an all out race deal and you can’t drive the car on the street I can help you out with that as well.

Also check out the April issue of Popular Hot Rodding, we have the featured article in that issue.

Good Luck.

Harold
512-257-0222

thanks for all the suggestions.